Gilly17 51 Posted December 8, 2014 Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 What's knackered,,, when you biting point for the clutch is at the bottom of the pedal????Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to post Share on other sites
Big J 283 Posted December 8, 2014 Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 (edited) Check fluid level first mate, possible air in system. It means your pedals doing jack all until the bottom of the stroke, and it's only just managing to disengage the clutch before it hits the floor. So, very little pedal movement means the clutch is re engaged and the remaining pedal movement is free travel.Could also be a bent clutch fork if you drive hard. Box out job if it is I'm afraid. Edited December 8, 2014 by Big J Link to post Share on other sites
Gilly17 51 Posted December 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 Cheers big j, fluid level ok. I'll have ago at bleeding it and take it from there!!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to post Share on other sites
Big J 283 Posted December 8, 2014 Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 Yeah give it a go sometimes could be a trapped pocket. If the rest of the pedal stroke feels a bit limp then chances are your not compressing fluid until your already half way down. If it does feel as tho there's fluid there from the too then it could be a fork issue, or the master cylinder seals passing.If you get to the point of changing an cylinder, do both if them. Master and slave together. I've never yet known a vehicle to have a new master and not blow the slave apart within a couple of days and visa versa. I always change in pairs. Link to post Share on other sites
Gilly17 51 Posted December 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 Is there any way of checking the clutch fork without taking the box out???Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to post Share on other sites
Gilly17 51 Posted December 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 Thanks again! These old vr's have a good habit of keeping us busy!!! lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to post Share on other sites
Big J 283 Posted December 8, 2014 Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 There is a couple of plastic plugs in inspection holes here and there but I'm not saying the fork can actually be seen because I haven't tried it. Get a torch in there if you can and have a poke about.What's your mileage and timing chains like? If I was going as far as pulling the box I'd have the covers off and re chain it, new clutch, good for another 100k Link to post Share on other sites
Gilly17 51 Posted December 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2014 She's done 142,000. Chains sound quiet don't know if their original or have been changed. Tried the clutch this morning and it feels like there's fluid from the top. I'll still try bleeding first. Then do the cylinders and hope that sorts it (fingers crossed) then if not,,,,, box outSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to post Share on other sites
Big J 283 Posted December 9, 2014 Report Share Posted December 9, 2014 If you haven't got proof of timing chains guides and tensioners at the mileage mate, you really need to do them. If you can do the labour yourself, parts are in the region of £300 plus a clutch, for the last one I did. It's far better than it wearing through a guide and smashing valves. Have a dig through your service history and paperwork first and maybe trace the previous owner? Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 1,455 Posted December 14, 2014 Report Share Posted December 14, 2014 Check the slave cylinder, seal usually splits and can leak, would also explain the fluid, easy enough to inspect and cheap to replace Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Gilly17 1 Link to post Share on other sites
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