1990 1 Posted March 1, 2004 Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 Only at low speeds, whats up? Ball joints? Link to post Share on other sites
Macca 1 Posted March 1, 2004 Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 I had this when i first bought the car, noise came from front right of the car, where id imagine CV joints are. Mechanic couldnt find cause, but he said he went round tightening everything (sorry cant be more specific) and the clunking went.It came back again after i jacked the car up to paint the calipers, but after a few weeks the noise gradually disappeared.New wheels look nice btw ian Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Olly_K Posted March 1, 2004 Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 is it just "one" clunk ?i have this on mine.......usually when i turn lock to lock, there's a huge great "clunk" and all is fine.........i put it down to the 17's and the lowering which is stressing the CV joints, but havent really investigated Link to post Share on other sites
acf8181 0 Posted March 1, 2004 Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 check the arb links, i've had both mine go and you think its somethin box/cv/diff related at first. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Olly_K Posted March 1, 2004 Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 erm............arb links ? Link to post Share on other sites
acf8181 0 Posted March 1, 2004 Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 if the arb link snaps the arb starts banging against the driveshaft and wisbone as the car pitches around during accelarating, braking, and cornering. Link to post Share on other sites
jcorallo 0 Posted March 1, 2004 Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 yeah - I've had these links break on me - the Anti Roll Bar is attached to the lower control arm by tiny metal rods with plastic bushes - I had one of the rods snap clean in half and the end of the ARB went through my CV boot - oooooooooooohhh I was happy to see that. Oh I was.Jules Link to post Share on other sites
acf8181 0 Posted March 1, 2004 Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 did you change both, cause i had the other side go about two months later.i'm not expecting the replacemtnes to last for that long either, and you can't buy uprated ones (except as part of the neuspeed arb set - whixh i want!) Link to post Share on other sites
jcorallo 0 Posted March 1, 2004 Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 beat me to it mate!! same time post! Link to post Share on other sites
jcorallo 0 Posted March 1, 2004 Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 I didnt change the other one - was too wrapped up in CV grease on the other side and was in a right mood after that. It better not snap..... Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Olly_K Posted March 1, 2004 Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 lol, i really need to jack my car up properly and have a good nose around ! Link to post Share on other sites
acf8181 0 Posted March 1, 2004 Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 I didnt change the other one - was too wrapped up in CV grease on the other side and was in a right mood after that. It better not snap.....you kept driving didn't you? always a bad idea, the first one went on the way back from brands last year, just as i was passing a maccy d's, so i called the rac for a tow, and got a burger! second went as i turned out my street so i was lucky.i'm worried that they'll let go on the nurburgring trip in august, tho i could always take the bar out (at a local garage) if it goes when i'm there. Link to post Share on other sites
jcorallo 0 Posted March 1, 2004 Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 I didnt actually know what the clanking was - I was convinced it was the exhaust having a walk about the chassis as I knew the back box had come loose... To be honest, if you are really really stuck (bodge-it and blop-it) you could use some really strong zip ties. cant belive I said it - but it would work short term as a get you home.Jules[ Edited Mon Mar 01 2004, 09:44PM ] Link to post Share on other sites
acf8181 0 Posted March 1, 2004 Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 well, as you probably know when you fitted the new link, the o.e. arb's are quite flexible, so you may be right. they'd have to be pretty serious zip ties tho! Link to post Share on other sites
jcorallo 0 Posted March 1, 2004 Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 yeah - when I was tugging about on it I thought there wasnt much resistance - so if I was stuck I could tie them up no probs. Some of them 1cm wide ones would do the trick - you can tow a car with them! Link to post Share on other sites
acf8181 0 Posted March 1, 2004 Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 have you tried towing a car with them then? lol! Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Olly_K Posted March 1, 2004 Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 anyone got a pic of the thingys ? Link to post Share on other sites
acf8181 0 Posted March 2, 2004 Report Share Posted March 2, 2004 [ Edited Tue Mar 02 2004, 09:27AM ] Link to post Share on other sites
acf8181 0 Posted March 2, 2004 Report Share Posted March 2, 2004 its no.17 Link to post Share on other sites
MOZ-IIIVR6 0 Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 Another possibility could be your rear offside engine mount, I had the same problem on mine, solid metalic type clunk when setting off, could also hear similar sound when braking at slow speed while turning left (getting onto driveway or parking).I had the car to Robbing Bas**rds main dealer who couldn't find anything, had it into my local garage 3 times, still couldn't find anything, on the 4th try they found that the bolt on the top of the engine mount (at the back of the engine down past the airbox side) was loose and when jacked up the whole mount could be moved with a big bar.All that needed doing was to remove the top nut and covering plate to get access to the main bolt head and tighten it back up, then repalce the cover and nut, there you go, mine was fixed in an instant and has never knocked since.This made sense as the sheer weight and forces applied to the mount when acellerating and braking would be enough to make it move but when us weak humans are trying to push and prod things to see whats loose, we can't really simulate the problem.If it is that, then to locarte the offending nut, look down the gap between the back of the engine/exhaust manifold and the back of the air filter box and at the bottom on the subframe you should see a funny rounded shaped piece of metal with a bolt and nut sticking up holding a little electric connector bracket. Get a wrench and see if it is loose, if it is remove the nut and bracket (note this nut is not the bit to tighten as there is extra thread at the top of the main through bolt, for the nut to tighten down on to hold the connector bracket), the domed shaped piece of metal is just a thin plate cover which lifts and slides off, beneath this cover is the access to tighten the mount through bolt, tighten it back up and replace the cover, top nut and bracket.Hope this helps, if this is the problem, please let me know as I am glad to help, it took 6 months of anoyance and visits to Garages to find the cause, only to fix it myself once the problem was identified.Regards.MOZ[ Edited Fri Mar 05 2004, 01:04PM ] Link to post Share on other sites
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