MOZ-IIIVR6

Exact same symptoms as mine, leads it was. tell them to be careful when changing them (if you don't do it yourself) mine were brand new leads and they knicked the new ones when replacing them.Took me a while to be convinced the problem was the leads as they were brand new, but sure enough the knicks were evident when they were removed. Problem solved. Hope yours is as simple a solution. Regards. MOZ

Hi Mosley, Thanks for the reply, its got a coil pack. As I said in my last post changing the engine speed sensor sensor seems to have fixed the problem so far. Have had it back a week now and no sign of the problem. Tahnks again. Moz

See my later thread but I had a similar problem that has turned out to be the engine speed sensor. Try and get it on a vag com and see if it is throwing up any fault codes. Mine was hence the repair. Hope this helps.

I have recently had a similar problem. no probs when cold but as it gets upto temperature, poor idling and eratic missfire at low revs ( especially when pulling away) until revs up above 2k ( then Ok again) Mine turned out to be HT leads ( even though it had had a brand new set on at Xmas 2005 :@ seems they were nicked when they were put in)i don't know why the temperature of the engine efffected this unless the plugs and leads were getting hot and some expansion somewhere was opening a crack? Also just had a engine speed sensor problem this last week which towards the end was causing some dod

Cheers for the suggestions. It looks like it was the engine speed sensor, got changed today and touch wood seems to have fixed the problem. Thanks again. MOZ

Hi guy's, Long time since I last posted. i have what seems to be a commonish problem ( I have searched on here with interest but still have some questions). The problem is that intermittantly after a drive (no apparent problems running) if I stop ( say for petrol) the car won't start again ( engine turns over but no firing whatsoever). After approx 15 to 20mins the car will finally start with no problem at all. This has occurrred 5 time in th elast week and every time restarted after 15 to 20 mins. Took it to Stealership who have diagnosed engine speed sensor ( plausable I thought) they have c

Have you tried Brentacre? They were the best for me, beat Adrian Flux by £160. regards. Moz

33 , Electronic Design Engineer, had the (5 door) VR for 2 and a half years, 5 door due to having a wife (senior management) and a 2 year old daughter (Junior management). Regards. Moz.

oops, it's come up as anonymous, wasn't trying to avoid detection, must have timed out and logged me off as it was such a long waffly answer, sorry it was me. regards. MOZ

Another possibility could be your rear offside engine mount, I had the same problem on mine, solid metalic type clunk when setting off, could also hear similar sound when braking at slow speed while turning left (getting onto driveway or parking). I had the car to Robbing Bas**rds main dealer who couldn't find anything, had it into my local garage 3 times, still couldn't find anything, on the 4th try they found that the bolt on the top of the engine mount (at the back of the engine down past the airbox side) was loose and when jacked up the whole mount could be moved with a big bar. All that n

When I was looking to buy my VR6, a local general/performance garage had a Dragon green one for sale on a T plate, I suspect it was built earlier but registered after the T's came out but believe it or not it was a T plate; as such was way out of my price range otherwise I may have been tempted.

Jesus!! Thats good, I have just tried Norwich Union direct, £547 with £350 excess for me and I was led to believe I was in a low risk area. Regards. MOZ

Bluesun, I can only assume you live in a very low risk area,as that is an amazing price. I phoned a lot of places when re-newing mine in December and the best I got last time was £500 with Brentacre, 33 long years,full 9 years+ no claims, 1 SP30 (made no difference) good low risk post code, limited 7K mileage. Regards. MOZ

Harrogate, North Yorkshire.....Another one from up north!! Regards. MOZ

Speedo is spot on, it's a 36mm socket that you require,which you may not have in your standard tool box, also from bitter experience can I recomend a long bar to attach to the socket ( and possibly a jack under the socket). Although my car had full VW service history and I changed my oil 7K miles after the last entry, I found it impossible to remove the oil filter housing, Having drained the oil and struggled for 2 hours to try to remove the case (persisted for so long so as not to waste my new oil) I eventually gave up put my new oil in, and got my local garage to do it, they needed a 5 foot