Advice needed: Abandoned VR6

[MattVW 0]

Here's the problem. My old VR6 has been sitting unused on the driveway for 3 or so years. It failed an MOT at the time for rusty sills and some brake thingy (see photo below), and due to lack of funds, couldn't get it repaired.

I started it about 2 years ago, engine sounded ok, chain rattle no louder than usual, but it wouldn't idle, just stalled, possible MAF problem?

Since then it hasn't moved. I need to know what I can do with it. What preparations should I make before turning it over?

The body work is pretty shocking, Blisters appeared many years ago, and have never been seen to.

Driver door..

Nearside

Offside

Passenger door

And of course the cills

And something else....

The jack point failed when I tried to change the wheels...

The handbrake has been off, however, the discs aren't looking so hot!

Rear one: Totally knackered?

How about the front ones?

The least of my worries, but losing this cap really bugs me, where can I get hold of one?

I'd like to be able to get the cills done and anything else it needs to get it through an MOT, but I have no idea how much it should cost, or who to goto for the welding/bodywork/parts. I'm in SE London/Kent area. Any ideas?

I need help, a tree has taken root in the wheel arch... sad times.

[Caddymatt1380 0]

Those seals don't look that bad in the photos. You should have tried taking it somewhere else after the MOT failure.

[CALICO 130]

the top of the brake reservoir can be borrowed bought from your local car breakers BRIDGES at pease pottage bottom of M23 have a few mk3's in i got the complete top for a couple of quid from there 1 month ago. The bit just pops off if you wanna get just that bit

[gavinvr6 0]

how about break it up, save everything u get for the bits and buy another? if it does need all the welding ur saying it could be a couple of hundred quid

[rodney 17]

Engine wise.... Drain ALL fluids and change them..... There is the idea of spraying/misting some oil down the plug holes to force any moisture out... But not lots. You're hoping that there isnt a seal of rust in place on the piston tops... this oil helps here. Do it first and leave it whilst you do all the other stuff.

i would pop the wheels off and have a closer look at the these areas. see how they turn etc. in the free air. the seals all look ok on your pictures

Its easy to swap a set of discs out and maybe the bearing(s) if the grease isnt still present.

Then finally. Before you try and start it... Pop in 5th gear and roll it back and forwards a few times just to turn the engine over.. (plugs out makes it easier).

I, personally, if all these move easily. Turn it over in VERY short bursts with the plugs out just to ensure all is moving as it should and give fluids a chance to get to where they should be and build pressure etc as you need. Then have a go.

The key is listen to it at each stage. Ignore the discs and pads if you know what I mean. If it sounds wrong ask.......

You will then need to pop it in to where ever you need to get the brake pipes/ welding etc done...

Oh and before you go any where near any nut and bolt. coat it the night before in releasing fluid and then again in the morning...

good luck

[thegoth 5]

you'll need to drain the petrol tank as well as modern petrol goes stale after only a few months let alone 2 years.

did you not have time to turn her over occasionally during the 24 monhs?

[BADOIR 2]

Good luck with this one bud, looks like you could be in for a long haul mate, excellent advice RCF But would also consider the (dare i say it) breaking option good luck mate.. +o( On a lighter note any chance of a cutting off the VR6 arch plant lol.????

[MattVW 0]

Thanks RCF, will give all those things a go. Would a bit o' WD40 do the trick down the plug holes?

I don't want to scrap/break it, although there are a lot of cheap vr's around at the moment that are nowhere near in such poor condition, big sentimental value on this one.

I did turn it over once, but then I went away and the battery went flat (cos I'm a fool and I left it in the car) and since then never got round to sorting it. So now I'll probably need a new batt too?! I'll try a trickle charge, but I think it's knacked.

A couple of hundred for the welding, not the end of the world?

[thegoth 5]

I don't want to scrap/break it' date=' although there are a lot of cheap vr's around at the moment that are nowhere near in such poor condition, big sentimental value on this one.

[/quote']

I can relate to that. For the money I spent on a rebuild I could have got a 5 year newer highline

[xyber 1]

looking at the state of the sills, compared to when I had to get mine fixed, Id guess under the side skirts will be rotted big time. Id say just getting the sills sorted to MOTable will cost you near £800-1k at least, as the whole lot will need cutting out and refabricating

Doesnt look viable TBH mate, even as a long term project, you will need to throw money at it just to get it roadworth and solid before you even start

[Phat VR6 3]

do what i did and buy a rust free cheep strate mk3 cl or driver for £400-£600 and bolt everything to to

New brake pipes, res cap, and poss MAF to sort the running problem and its all done for £700.... cheaper than repairing that and cheaper than buying a rust free VR

[rusty dan 1]

i would say try turning the engine over by hand first for the fear of seized engine!

Fresh fluids are good but turn the engine by hand first just to make sure everything moves, saves wasting more money on fluids if your engine is shagged..

Why not have yourself a project.... you have managed to be without the car for 2 years anyway.

Have some fun with it!

Over and out

Russ