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My VR6 Turbo reaching for 400 hp, 2009 update p3 and out. . . .


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Also bought some 6 spoked tt wheels 17".

Got them for 100 quids but they where horrible, so i made them black. :) .

Hope u like them. Sorry no pic on car yet.

First I gave them a GOOD wash

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I used a rough brush. . . . dont wash your wheels like this if youre not planing on paint them

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Wheel molestation. . . .

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Mixed up some metall plastic

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Tried to spread even and not to much, didnt want to be sanding my arm off.

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Some wheelbolt scars

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After sanding down with 240 wetpaper on a block . . . not by hand as mentioned before or u will sand uneven and it will show after painting

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Had to fill some more. . . . dont sand to much. Sand then feel with your fingertips. Close your eyes if that helps ;).

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This one filled in nicely, you can see the metall plastic on the edge og the rim also.

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After sanding the whole wheel with 240, 400 and 600 and cleaning with degreaser I layed the first coat of primer on.

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After drying for 4 hours in my basement i wetsanded with 1200 . . . . this made the whole difference. You can feel how smooth it gets after this. (dont rub hard)

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I think it looks cool in this colour also :).

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First coat of black flatt. . . . it looks glossy, but its not gonna be.

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Now its real smooth and looks good. . . .

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Pics on car will come when the snow melts:).

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I made this for my speakers. . . . dont want to get my window broken so made the stealth.

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This plate was already on my car when i bought it. It was covering up the old 6*9 holes.

Didnt want to have 6*9 on my car, but the midbass form the 6" component in the front isnt that good.

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The trunk:

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The list so far:

Atp turbokit stage 2 http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-VVW-113&Category_Code=VVWTK

Custom mapped and buildt in Holland at VR6specialist.

Custom 3" exhaust with 2,5" magnaflow racecat

RSD 19 row Oil cooler.

Apexi avcr electronic boost controller. http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_electronics_detail.asp?id=200&pageNum=1

Wavetrac diff http://www.wavetrac.net/technical.htm

Clutchnet 4-puck clutch with 600hp pressure plate and SS flywheel. http://www.clutchnet.com/product.php?productid=22008&cat=0&page=1

C2 Motorsport 1.5 fuelingkit.

Inovative Motorsport LC-1 wideband with A/F gauge

FK sport+ coilovers

Eibach ARB kit (Autotech 25mm adjustable ARB now replasing 23mm:))

Polybushes in the front and in the rear towers.

Chains, guide and gliders done.

OEM:

Fan switch

Tierods on both sides with arms and boots.

ABS sensor rear left and right

Expantion tank

AUX water pump

Water pump (not installed yet.)

Exterior:

Badgeless front

Highline bumpers painted in Dragon Green (and then crushed by parking idiot!)

New ones this season.

Black CL door mouldings (soon to be painted)

Mk4 look headlights with osram crystal white bulbs.

New OEM foglights and blinkers

New OEM smoked taillights.

Brakes/wheels:

Zimmermann brakerotors front and rear

Sparco racepads front and mintex rear

New Motul 5.1 dot brakefluid

These brake mods really helped!!! (but not for long I glazed the pads last time so new 312 tts on the way)

Black TT 6 spoked wheels with Falken FK-452 205/45-17

Panasonic cq-vd7003u dvd unit

Jl audio xr 650 csi components

Jl audio 4/300

Bazookatube 10/100

"Matz" floormats

Retrimmed handbreak steeringwheel and gearknob.

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  • 3 weeks later...

For the last few days me and my m8 Andreas have been in the garage 24/7.

We started with the removal of the gearbox.

We followed the bentley manual for this.

Startengine out

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The block looks ok, should have been painted, but thats for next year.

Gonna clean and doublecheck the oil heatchanger so it doesnt leak anymore.

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Had to lift the driveshaft off to get the gearbox to slide out.

To do this you have to lift and tilt the engine to the left. . . . .

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The gearbox is free :). All the bolts that holds the box had to come off. these are big and tight, the one on the back is the worst. I found that a tool that worked best was a combination wrench.

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This is DIY ;).

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Box out. Was a xitch to slide out because of the tight fit.

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Me working under the car :).

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Cams timed and exposed.

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The engine is TOO dirty, but the timing is set.

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Cam chain off. The bolt that held the gear was tight!!

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Loosening the bolts. They are also TIGHT.

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The head is off :). The headgasket was corroded between the cylinders so a fresh one is in place :).

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The car looks good ;).

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New gaskets and spacer with ARP bolts. Comp lowered to 8.5.

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Getting the washers onto the bolts was challenging. One fell behind the dynamo bracket an it took a good 30 minutes to get it out.

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Finishing up and torqued to 65 ft lbs.

The engine is timed and ready for new clutch. Gonna fit it tomorrow I hope :).

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fair play... looking good. doing the same to mine but without all the nice bits... Im painting mine but tbf I have no idea why. you can't really see it and it will just be covered in crap in a few months.

Do you not fancy a obd2 conversion at some point?

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fair play... looking good. doing the same to mine but without all the nice bits... Im painting mine but tbf I have no idea why. you can't really see it and it will just be covered in crap in a few months.

Do you not fancy a obd2 conversion at some point?

Thanks m8.

I dont know ether why to paint, but its satisfying :).

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  • 4 weeks later...

Do you not fancy a obd2 conversion at some point?

Maybe next year, but it goes like stink now so lets see how much more I want after this season.

I cant believe the night and day feeling with the new diff. Its Insane. Less torque steer and MUCH more grip.

It also feels smoother trough corners.

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SO, the rest of the work is done and here are the pics etc:

Removing the old flywheel. It kept spinning so I fixated it with a wrench and a tripod :).

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Look how black/blue it is. I think I burned it:

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Old pressure plate:

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I wish my whole engine looked like this:

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Big and small.

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New flywheel. . . . . looks way better.

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Red pressure plate from stage 4 from clutchnet aligned and bolted.

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New spacer installed:

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The turbo back on:

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Didnt see the timing mark at first, but after some time I got it all in the right order :).

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Changing rodbolts:

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In the hole:)

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At random checking I found these suckers. Not good:

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Insulated them and wrapped then in electric tape:

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New Injectors:

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Old oilfilter:

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New oilfilter:

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My homemade gearbox funnel.

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No final picks but Its driving on 14 psi and it PULLS :).

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  • 2 weeks later...
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  • 1 year later...

So a little update:

Havent been driving my car to much for the last 2 years due to no MOT and the lack of TÃœV and then turbo rebuild approval from the Norwegian DMV.

Going to Germany some time this spring to get my TÃœV and then hopefully get it approved in Norway.

I have been cleaning up my enginebay and getting the car tip top so nothing goes wrong at the TÃœV.

some pics:

My apexi avcr and wideband lambda....

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The re-leathered steeringwheel/gearknob/handbrake with perforated grips.

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wastegate

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BOV and oil breather return

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Yes, when we rebuild our cars like:

change headlights

turboconvert

fit coilovers all the new modifications need to go in the cars documents. If not the car doesnt have innsurance.

So to get turbo convertions approved all parts and everything that is done has to be approved by TÃœV in germany. Or decra. So my list is as follows:

Total new weight of car.

Brakes are strong enough for extra PS.

Cars construction is strong enough for extra PS.

Suspension approved

Emission test/ cycles test.

Db test.

Documentation of vehicle PS at specified boost.

wheels and tires must be approved.

So lets see how it goes in may ;).

As for the car, its great. I am boosting 1.1 bar/16 psi and I cant think of a cheaper and faster car :).

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