tkoral

I apologize for not keeping you updated Philly-R6. I've been tremendously busy with non VR6 things. I am at a stand still till the postal service drops off my new ignition coil tomorrow. I was not getting an actual spark from any plug. The ignition coil was only giving the plugs around 7v to produce spark with. I've been told that the voltage coming from the ignition coil should be in thousands. I tested the resistance of my ignition coil and the primary resistance checked out good. The secondary resistance tested at 7.75 ohms in the 20k ohm range. The Bentley calls for the secondary resis

I connected my multimeter to the ignition coil lead wire to the dizzy. I get 12v when the key is in the on position. When I cycle the key for a engine start the voltage with that lead drops to around 7v. I am unable to gather any faults. I do not have vag com unfortunately. I will try to see if I'm getting a signal from the hall sensor tonight. I know I am getting 12v power and 5v signal from the plug that attaches to the hall sensor.

I finished up a full rebuild to my 2.9 VR6 and now it will not get spark to the plugs. Coil wire has 11.8v to distributor. Crank sensor shows 900 ohms Female plug that connects to the distributor shows 12v on one pin and 5v on the other. Unable to get any ohms reading across the hall sensor male connector pins. Did my hall sensor go out or could it be a fried ecu?

Thank you for the link Philly R6! And also thank you for your input.

Is there any ecus that will work with my 93 VR6 distributer corrado. I can't find anything out on this topic. Any help will be greatly appreciated[emoji1360]

I had my machine shop bore my block and they installed my larger pistons for me onto the stock rods. The nipple on both the rod and cap are matched up but not sure if they are Facing the correct way. The raised portion on the piston crown is towards the center of the block. I am just not sure if the rods are facing the right way. If anyone can show me any light on this it would be much appreciated [emoji1360]

Can't seem to find anything but generic charts. I want to know what the best ring gap specs are for a na VR6 12v 2.9l with mk4 he and 268s. If anyone has any knowledge it will be greatly appreciated [emoji1360]

You will definitely have to swap out the engine loom along with ecu. Keep in mind that VRs use a hydraulic master for the clutches rather than cable. The Ce2 wiring is pretty simple. Number all of your electrical connections when stripping the car and a have a Bentley near by. Good luck [emoji1360]

My machine shop has finished boring my aaa block to 82mm They have cut my crank and line bored my main journals. They told me to use standard size bearings for rods and mains. Have calico coated glyco bearings along with new thrust washers. New intermediate shaft bearings have been installed. Is there Anything else that I need to do after I install bearings and torque them to spec? Also what else is there to do when I slide the pistons in with new rings? I know I will have to file them to the correct gap but is there another measurement that I need to take once they are installed? I'm aski

I called them and they said they wouldn't do anything till I get the pistons to them. I need to get more sleep and stop over analyzing everything I think [emoji848] Thanks for the reply [emoji1360]

Hello everyone. I have been in the process of rebuilding a aaa VR6. The machine shop suggested that it would be best if the block be bored due to some irregularities with some cylinder walls. The motor was smoking before I pulled it... I gave them the go ahead to bore it to a 82mm. My friend has eurospec 2.9l corrado block that he spun a bearing on due to a cracked sump. He is giving me the 2.9l pistons out of it for a cheap price. My concern is will the pistons fit or should I have given them a different figure for the cylinder bore to work with the 2.9l eurospec pistons? I've read everywhe

That was quite a bit of info RBPE [emoji1360] really appreciate all of that info!

Thanks for the input VR6Pete [emoji1360] that makes sense RBPE I always thought oem was had better material than most other manufacturers. I am currently looking into Calico bearings... Anyone ever have any experience with those? From what I've read they seem reassuring.

Application is a aaa 93 slc with 140k miles. NA I just had my whole head freshly rebuilt with new drc268s and super tech valves. I wanted to rering the block as well along with new bearings and arp hardware. I am on the fence with boost due to financials but when the time comes I would want my motor to be ready for it. Thanks

I can't seem to decide which of the two I should go with. Schimmel main bearings have oil grooves on both halves where oem only has it on one bearing half. I'm just worried of what the schimmel bearings are made out of compared to the oem material. Any advice or info will be greatly appreciated.