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markhaywardbailey

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Posts posted by markhaywardbailey

  1. Hi
    I had a similar knock on my first vr6 aaa engine. It occurred after I used an engine flush kit. I had many people try to assess it and most mechanics told me it was probably the big end bearing which was causing it. On the vr6 this is obviously a total rebuild and I was advised that it was not worth doing the work. In the end I replaced the whole engine from a donor car ( actually only cost me £100 ) and a garage in Trowbridge swapped it out for 200.
    One thing to check though is has it got the correct oil ? You might see an improvement by applying oil of a thicker viscosity as I was advised. I never did this however due to the swap out but maybe it would be worth a try. My old engine btw did not suffer in any way apart from the knocking noise
    Regards
    Mark

  2. Yes exactly that it was difficult to detect and only occurred when engine was hot. I went through the same pain using diagnostic tools and no codes were shown, the forums told me to change the maf and crank sensors which I did but made no difference
    (And changing the crank sensor is fiddly with little access)
    If you splay the intake pipe check for cracks/ splits or as I did block the end with my hand and put the other over my mouth and give it a good blow see if it leaks
    Hope this helps
    Mark

  3. Hi frosty I had exactly the same problem and couldn't work out what was going on . Mk3 vr6 1996 obd2 aaa . Drove to the shops engine up to warm . Got the shopping and when I restarted the engine it would rev then just die. It would restart and then be fine !! I checked and replaced the crank sensor and maf still same problem . Thought I'd take the throttle body off and clean it . I removed the air intake pipe to the throttle body and noticed a very small spilt on the underside in between the concertina . The underside gets hot from the exhaust manifold and the heat was causing the split to open up and causing the engine to die. I sourced a secondhand part off eBay and presto the problem was gone (I temp wrapped in tape til it arrived).
    Hope this fix is the same in your case, let me know
    Cheers
    Mark

  4. Hi Olly had a similar issue on my mk3 vr6 turned out to be the wiring into the maf sensor one of the wires was slightly frayed . As you revved it just pulled the cable slightly when the engine moved and cause the hesitation/stutter you mention . It might be worth just checking that your vacuum pipes are all intact (check the one at the front into the manifold) even a small leak can give you the same symptoms
    Cheers mark

  5. Hi
    When you take the lid off the expansion tank after engine is hot is pressure released ? If so you have air trapped in the system. There is a bleed screw at the end of the crack pipe which you can access from under the car at the front. Ultimately if there is a leak in your cooling system it introduces two problems 1. Loss of coolant 2. And what a lot of people don't realise is the ability of air getting into a closed system. Regarding the oil cooler it's quite common for the oil to get into your coolant rather than the coolant getting into your engine and this would explain the white foam . In my case the head gasket split at the left hand end of the head and was just dripping down the engine . Have you found any leaking point yet ? Any wet patches on the carpet on passenger side as this is where the heater matrix is ?
    Mark

  6. Just another point to check ....vr6 has an auxiliary water pump which energises when you turn on the ignition . You should hear it whirring away ( it's sited on the right hand side of engine above the gearbox) mine had failed and I had to replace it. Also if your coolant seems to disappear then come back and overflow as mine did for a time then the thermostat could be at fault . I removed the coolant flange got it out and sure enough it did not open when immersed in boiling water . I replaced it with a higher temp rated one and after that I did not have any issues . If you do this job be sure to replace the coolant flange and all the gaskets ( it's about £25 from GSF )
    Hope this helps
    Mark

  7. Hi there I've had similar issues with my mk3 vr6 with mayo in the expansion tank . In my case it turned out to be the oil cooler which is at the front of the engine . Not an expensive part to replace just a bit fiddly. I did however have a coolant leak in the side of the head so I had to replace the head gasket which had perished . I did the job myself on the driveway and did the water pump at the same time. It's not as hard as you might think there's a lot of info about if that turns out to be your issue . That said the vr6 engine is so well designed that mine never overheated on me even when the coolant warning lamp comes on and I had to stop and replace the fluids
    Let me know how you get on
    Mark

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