petemcr
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Posts posted by petemcr
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This is the block I've been looking at, it's the bare bottom end, but I've just messaged the fella asking for details asking about the millage of this, he has told me it had done 315K when it was removed, no smoke or rattles
Now, I know the VR6 was a tough engine, but my god, is this going to be a dead stick to work with and I mean no disrespect if the person is on here. He did point out and I can see it in one of the pictures that it still has the cross hatching on the bores, I've looked at mine which had done 184k and even that doesn't have the cross hatching.
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You know, there is one on eBay at the moment which I have been looking at, I was avoiding the 2.9 bottom end because I thought it would be a waste, but it would be nice to have another block set aside to work on that can just be swapped out eventually.
Cheers for the advice fella, going to see what I can find.
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1 minute ago, MJ Vr6 said:
Your better of sending the block away to see what can be done down below.
May need to invest in some new bigger pistons..
Would you wanna buy a 2nd hand block and go down the same road, or would you rathe fix what you have?
Think about it....
If you are in London I can put you in touch with some specialists friends of mine who re-bore blocks and sort Cylinder heads daily, just finished my mates R32T and my R32.
Mj
You are right, plus it would be nice to have the correct serial number matching with the car, my plan was to get a 2.8 VR6 and have it bored out to 2.9 and then use my pistons.
The bottom is still in the car at this stage, I was just planning on doing the head gasket really but this has changed my plans, I'm in Manchester fella but appreciate the help.
I will have to see about getting the bottom end out now I reckon and go from there.
Thanks guys
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just to open this up a little more.
Heads off, found some scoring on one or two of the cylinders, I still think the gasket wasn't sealing which was the low compression but hoping for a bit of advise.
I did plan to just put the new head gasket on and get the head pressure tested just to get her back on the road, kind of torn now with what to do, I don't know if to try and get another block, 2.8 (I've heard they have less issues due to the thicker cylinder walls) but I didn't want to go down this route so soon.
How badly is the engine going to run if I was to put it back together for the time being till I can get bottom end work doing? am I going to have a bad time if I put her back together as is just to get her back on the road?
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Alright buddy, yea I think the head has been put on badly, I compression tested the rest of the pistons and they were all down so
I've taken the head off today and the head bolts were, well they weren't tight at all. Cheers for the info on what PSI they should be fella, I'm going to do the gasket and head again and torque them correctly then see what I get -
Afternoon fella's
Hope you're all doing well on this wet and windy Monday.
Just wanted some opinions on this, I've done the head gasket on my VR6 some time ago, not really touched it much but I've started working on her again, just in the process of removing the head but, I did a compression test on all cylinders and they were rather disappointing, I've suspected the head hasn't been correctly installed so I suspect head issue as she was running fine prior, just minor oil burn when she was in the high revs but fine down low.
So, dry compression test showed the following.
Cylinder #1 - 30 PSI
Cylinder #2 - 60
Cylinder #3 - 40
Cylinder #4 - 50
Cylinder #5 - 50
Cylinder #6 - 40
After the poor results, I did a wet compression test on two of the cylinders again to check there wasn't a dramatic increase.
Cylinder #1 - stayed at 30 PSI
Cylinder #3 - Went up to 70
Cylinder # 4 stayed the same.
From my understanding, this would indicate a head issue, burnt valve/bent/poorly seated head.
While I have the head off, does anyone know any good means to test the pistons don't have too much slack in them, going to do the head gasket again, but it would be nice while it's off to be able to test them.
Any help would be amazing to help get the old girl back on the road.
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Hey everyone, hope you're all well
Not been on here for a while as I've not really touched my VR much since putting a new head gasket on her, but seeing my mate get his 1967 Beetle running after being stood for going on 4 years has spurred me on.
So, the story is, I changed the head gasket on my 93' Corrado VR6, all was well as it started off the key, after that however it never started again. It looked like it had a spark problem but it turned out to be a dodgy ignition switch but the head has been off again and fully rebuilt and timed back up. So it sounds like it's not getting any compression as it seems to spin pretty free, not compression tested it yet but we tried to drag it and it did fire and run, but the ignition switch caused it to cut out.
Is it worth dragging it again? I've been told to re-time it, I'm pretty sure my mechanic has done it right but I just don't know if it's worth trying to pull it and will it run right after.
Cheers
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So,
Had to have the mobilizer removed from my Corrado VR6 recently and I had a friend remove it and put everything back to factory until I can buy a new alarm for the car, it's a 93' and as far as I know it didn't come with any factory immobilizer.
Two wires had been splicer from the ignition loom, which he has rejoined, however since doing this the sunroof/spoiler and a few other little bits and bats didn't seem to work, originally you would turn on the ignition, everything would come on for a second then go off, and you would need to swipe the fob and it would all come back on, but since removing this hasn't been the case.
So last night I was showing my girlfriend the Corrado and she was sat in the drivers seat and turned the ignition on... still nothing on the dash, but she was playing and pushed the key a little past the first point and between turning it over, low and behold everything electrical starts working, spoiler... sunroof... dash
So, this leads me to believe maybe the ignition switch is bad, and the immobilizer was doing the jump of this prior to it being removed, anyone else got any thoughts on this? I'm probably going to swap it out regardless because they appear to be a cheap part to replace
Ta to anyone who replys
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New on here so I've not shown anyone on here this which I carried out last year,so I thought I'd post some pics for you all to browse,
As per, when I got my Corrado it had a list of things wrong with it, Sunroof didn't work, passengers window also didn't work... spoiler worked, some how and the heater controls didn't work and I'm sure anyone on here with late style controls knows the going rate of them in terms of price (£90 or there abouts), so instead I decided to fit a Climatronic unit from a Bora V5.
Was a pig of a job to do, had to remount where it bolts up to the bulk head, I did plan to wire the full thing in but it meant cutting in to the ECU wires which I wasn't brave enough to do so it's basically being used as your standard heater controls.
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Now, I know this is supposed to be fairly straight forward from what I've read but I am wondering if my tensioner bolt is past it,
I have the old style one, so I know you have to use a thin piece of wire to release the bearing in bottom, but my question is how hard should you have to press down, I'm using a B string of a guide to do it and it isn't releasing at all, from what I understand I should be able to press it down easily once this has been released but it will not move at all
Any help would be aweomse
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Why do you have a single intermediate cog and a double chain?
That's a damn good question... I know the chains/clutch were done in 2009 before I got the car, I wonder if they got the wrong chain kit at the time and whoever has done the work has just put it on anyways... I don't know what to do now, to swap this out for a single chain I would need to pull the engine/gearbox to either change the intermediate socket to a duplex one, or swap out the sprockets and top chain for a simplex chain right?
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Pics and video, is this too tight or is that how it should be, this is after turning the engine over two turns of the crank
Sent from my HTC One SV using Tapatalk
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Right, so I've been out and done it again today, I removed the sprocket of cam 1-3-6 and adjusted the crank to dead on TDC, with the intermediate sprocket notch in view, fitted the chain so all the slack is on the tension bolt side and fitted the cam cover and bolt to test the timing, and this is how I left it so far
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Hopefully I do, I'm going to spend the day tomorrow with it I think.
My plan is to remove the Cam on 1,2,4 and get the engine timed up again, finger tighten the sprocket and test the timing and make sure the slack is on the tensioner side and there's no slack between the cam sprockets, if it's all well then I will nip up the sprocket bolts and hopefully it will run ok... hopefully
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So is a little bit of slack Ok on the guide rail side? I don't mean really loose but just a slight bit? I know there is not meant to be any slack between the two cam sprockets but I was under the impression the chain on the guide trail has to be tight. I just want to be sure before I start to assemble everything back up to be turned over.
Cheers for the reply's
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Hey all,
Hoping someone on here can give me some advice on this,
I've just had to replace the headgasket on my 93' VR6, so the heads on now and I've come to time up the head, I've got all the timing marks aligned, the Intermediate notch is in view, the cam alignment tool is in place and the engine is at TDC
So I've put the chains on, temp fitted the cam cover with the tensioner bolt in place and tested the timing and sure enough after 2 turns of the crank the came alignment tool slotted back in place no problems, but it felt like there was a slight bit of slack on the chain on the sprocket closest to you, where the dizzy would be.
Asked a friend to give a hand as he's a mechanic, he came round and fitted the sprockets again but had the chain tight, turned it over again and the cams look to now be out, probably by a tooth or so.
My question is, should there be any slack on the tensioned side? and has anyone got any tips on fitting them and keeping the chain tight.
Cheers
VR6 Compression Ratings - Dry/Wet
in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Posted
Yea that's what I figured, just wanted an opinion.
I might hold out till I can find something in better condition, or just bite the bullet and pull my bottom end out and work with that, better the devil you know and all that.
Cheers again