vdub_pete
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Posts posted by vdub_pete
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Nah just AC
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Anybody know what this is on my obd1 1994 vr. It's located just behind the expansion bottle and one pipe goes to some vacuum box in the passenger front wheel arch behind the arch lining and the other goes inside the cabin where the heather hoses go.
Only asking coz on replacing the vacuum hose I broke the bit going inside and have no idea what it is or if it's important not only that I fear I may have to remove the dash to get at it :0
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Guess I was lucky then heater matrix had already been done when I bought my vr
What's the deal with them anyway do they leak and piss coolant all over your legs or just not chuck out heat or what?
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What's the worst job you've done on your vr? Anyone inclined to agree the piston rings are a real headache the oil scraper rings have the strength much less than that of a tooth pick!
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I'm keen to know to I've got a similar set up apart from the tt plugs
what's the advantage of them? Anyone know?
Are you running obd1 or 2 mate?
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Having issues installing new piston rings anyone got any hints and tips?
I broke the 2nd ring on one piston installing it and I managed to get the rest in all good but then realised I'd stupidly put the pistons in the wrong way around and they needed turning 180 deg so I pulled them back out and the oil scraper rings on 2 broke. But I don't know if I broke them removing them or installing them.
Made this to put them in
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Sorted it, bought a new one
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Sweet as cheers man
don't suppose u have sun visors to?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Yea think i can get that what grade tho?
so thats like 300km ish should i do oil change after that or leave it longer?
I'd normaly do oil change every 8,000km 5,000 miles ish or every year what ever comes first.
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Id really like to know the answer to this too mate as ive had my head and block skimmed quite a bit due to corrosion.
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Whats the best oil to be putting in a rebuilt vr6 motor?
i know u guys rate the quantum synta 10w40 but im in nz and we dont got no tps lol
castrol edge 5w30?
castrol mag 10w40?
Any other brands? or grades?
seen as its going to be freshly rebuilt should i run it in on a different oil?
How long should i drive it for like a nanna b4 i can really put my foot down?
cheers guys
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Thats no worries mate my sister is in devon collecting parts to ship out for me
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Wow.. Well done for attempting the work by yourself. I wouldn't have done it or Even tried. Hats off to you Mate
Thanks mate, don't big me up too much I kinda knew what I was doing I am a mechanic by trade
hehe!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Impressive bravery taking the gearbox to pieces!
Cheers man
I found an 02A gearbox manual online and followed it step by step which helped, I must admit there was a few moments where I thought omg why did I even start this but it payed off in the end. And I saved myself a heap coz my time was free and the bearing & seal kit was only about £60. I couldn't believe the state of the bearings tho, I wish I'd taken some photos. It amazed me that it was still drivable and that the gears were fine.
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I have proper 5 door black pillars I need gone
long shot i know but have u still got theses?
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Anybody got any recommendations of some good engine assembly lube??
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Bump, any one have any ideas?
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So im rebuilding my 2.8 vr and thought it best to give the pump the once over as you do. All the tolerances check out and its not to badly scored up but when i took it apart the gears fell out and there is 2 arrows that kinda look like timing marks but im not sure, i had a look in the bentley book but it doesn't say anything about it.
Any one got any ideas?
It still turns fine so i don't think the gears are off center or anything but i what to be sure it goes back together correctly.
I also found this in the pick up gauze which was quite alarming but im pretty sure the bits are from the destroyed timing chain guides i replaced a while ago
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I fitted sp 263's last year as they were recommended by stealth racing. I was after more mid range pull as the vr is abit lazy building up the revs. I had the same mods as you with bmc and cat back.
After fitting there was a noticable difference from 2800rpm right through the rest of the rev range, whereas 268's tend to kick in quite late so require you to rev the knackers off your engine to get into the powerband... pointless for a road car in my opinion
. The engine is noticably more aggressive, revs up much quicker from 2800rpm and pulls strong right though. However You will need a remap to get any propper benifits out of cams. I had mine done at stealth.... before remap 178 bhp after sp 263's and remap 203 bhp... cant remamber torque figures but it also increased impressively Now this is what i have been searching the forum for finally ive found my answer now just one thing did you just fit the 263 cams on there own or did you go with uprated springs etc? i gotta know i want to order some
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Don't know many people who have had these, I really rate the schimmel 263's though
Club ChairmanSorry to hijack here but Im looking to upgrade the cams on my vr while im rebuilding the engine and i've been searching the forum for answers
can i ask Pete why you rate the schimmel 263's? whats different about them to a 268?
Ive been thinking of some 268's but of what brand im not quite sure nothing extremely expensive tho. What gains could i expect with 263's and 268's also what else should be replace? Valves? Springs? Tappets?
Cheers man
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cheers man i may have to invest in one.
Does anyone know if the main crank bearing bolts and the conrod bolts are stretch or not? I can't seem to find any oem ones online only arp ones
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Next to happen was a set of bbs rxII which i snapped up on trade me for only $200 for a set of 5 and where in real good nick. wrapped them in 195/45r16 kumhos so not to put the spedo out to much but also If you fit aftermarket wheels you kave to get a cert done which is like $600!!
Id noticed that on and off the power pedal there was quite a bit of slack and it almost felt like the whole engine was moving around to much so i got a new set of engine mounts from black forest industries from OZ they were the stelth ones so as not to make to much vibration felt through the car
As you can see the old ones where pretty toast
Also fitted some HID's as you do
Over the next few months she got quite a bit of use and i even got involved with a small vw crew called Next Level VW on facebook. However there where a 3 hour ferry trip and an 8 hr drive away! Anyway i was determined to meet up with some fellow NZ dubbers so i booked a ticket and made the trip all the way up north.
They were a great bunch of people who shared the same passion as me for the VW which i was stoked about, it was just a shame they were so far away.
As you can see i seriously needed to get some lows but after talking to the guys you can get into heaps of trouble with the cops and even have your car crushed if you mod a car in anyway from standard without getting the thing certified.
I gained alot of knolage and found out there are some things you can do without getting a cert. like you can drop it no more than 50mm on shocks and springs and as long as you try to keep things oem you'll get away with most things. If you start doing things that arn't the norm then its likely to attract attention unless you've got a cert which can cost upwards of $600 depending on what needs to get checked and what you've modded and stuff. Also you have to get a new cert done every time you mod something so your best to do everything you want to do then take it in but who does that unless your loaded.
Its part of the law that tries to deter you from modifying your car basically.
So after that trip up north and racking up nearly 1,400 km the gearbox was not sounding to fantastic and also the the timing chains were not sounding to great they has that classic ball bearings in a tin can noise at about 2,000 rpm. So i Bit the bullet and ordered an new timing set from the US and a gearbox bearing set from the UK.
I had also moved house and got a lovely big garage too
front end off and Gearbox out
Rebuild in progress all the bearings were totally shot i was amazed it still went round!
chains off
And holly crap!! no wonder it was making a noise!!
New chains on
More coming soon
- Nex, D11PS, damian8588 and 1 other
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4
hehe!
. The engine is noticably more aggressive, revs up much quicker from 2800rpm and pulls strong right though. However You will need a remap to get any propper benifits out of cams. I had mine done at stealth.... before remap 178 bhp after sp 263's and remap 203 bhp... cant remamber torque figures but it also increased impressively 
v5 gearbox conversion
in Transmission
Posted
seen as my vr6 gearbox has crapped out for the second time im looking to upgrade and go the v5 conversion.
ive done a bit of research and i will need:
v5 gearbox (assuming any gearbox code will work??)
100mm bolt in driveshaft flanges from a mk4 tdi
mk4 gear linkage (will any mk4 5 speed linkage work or does it need to be v5)
to make it worth while i was going to put in a tdi 5th gear as well to keep revs down when cruising (which one will i need mk3? mk4? or just any tdI)
Can anyone help me out and confirm my information and fill me in on the gray areas
much appreciated