rbertnitro
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Everything posted by rbertnitro
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thanks dave, so if im getting myself some 25mm arbs, with the rear one is there a need to get any special mounts/links and how do you get it to fit since the car doesnt have a rear bar as standard? What would you say was a good tyre to use for a good quality street ride aswell, i was using 195/40/17 that i have and when i swapped to the stock 15in factory wheels n tyres it was noticably smoother and hardly any diffrence in terms of manouverability.
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hi guys. Im looking for some ideas to change the feel of my totaly stock obd2. First off im not wanting to get excited as far as budget goes and second im not wanting to create a track car/harsh ride. Right so im 90% happy with the golfs ride and cornering at the moment,The main thing is im wanting to retain a good level of smoothness and nice ride comfort.Granted the roads around here are crap but the golf doesnt take even the most slight uneven surface with much finesse.its a bit crashy and the rear seems to be slightly worse it sometimes feels like im riding a bucking broncko lol and the fr
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thanks guys.i really wasnt sure what it was. and now that i think ive always had a wierd sort of light buzzing sound when i have recirc button switched on,the loose pipe may explain why i keep getting a 00533 idle air fault code every day or two. Id rather have it connected as stock if i can. so the free end of this pipe will go to a vac feed on the brake line right? so i should just be cool putting in a tee piece on the brake hose and connecting it yeah?
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Hi, After having a scan under the bonnet at my schrick manifold setup im a little puzzled as to the plumbing of it. Vac pipe goes from the flap piston to the solenoid valve, from solenoid valve to the vac bottle and from vac bottle to the engine vac line (brake i think) which makes sense to me. however up on the firewall just below the pollen filter area there is a valve that looks exactly like the schrick solenoid valve, one end of this is conected to rubber vac pipe which then links into a tiny hard plastic pipe and then T-splits left and right, the one going to the driver side goes way back
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ive had some codes read off and it read 00533 idle air control- and 00553 maf short to ground. after having replaced the maf with a decent one (this code comes up with the old one too) 00533 dissapears after erasing but 00553 keeps coming up. Any ideas folks? could it be wiring related since its faulting with both mafs?
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big thanks to pearsy for hooking me up with the correct cam sensor. Hopefully this and the other sensors will solve my hesitation problems. I also got the car with a schrick mani on it im not sure if its working correctly or not and in the history theres a mention of a 'chip' causing a problem and some garage recomended replacing or removing it i dunno what the outcome was. could the schrick have developed a fault and is it easy to check this? and if the chip/mapping done for the schrick is now removed/malfunctioning could this cause hesitation issues? cheers
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thanks lukey i did do a hall sender search and lots came up earlies year i found was 97- though
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yeah go for it
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thanks mate.yeah i thought the 12v did have them even though they arent listed anywhere. is your spare one decent/working yeah?
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hi folks. im trying to cure a low speed low rev,hesitation on my 12v vr6 obd2 which happens from under 1000-just below 2000rpm when going slow thru towns etc, anyway after reading a bit on here and other forums of people with similar issues ive decided to get some parts and try and solve this, i have the 1.8t iat sensor which some recomend,a new coolant temp sender,a good maf and ive recently done the leads and plugs with good ones,(not touched coil pack yet) im trying to get a cam position sensor but cant for the life of me seem to find one,all referance online to sensors on the mk3 2.8 come
