sedge
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Everything posted by sedge
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Ah thats not too bad though, didn't have any problems with them rusting or warping quickly then?
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Hi all, just after a bit of advice looking to replace the front discs on my VR and found these on ebay, i no the saying goes if its cheap its probably too good to be true but just wondered if anyone had brought any from volks_bits through ebay? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vented-Front-Brake-Disc-Set-Drilled-Grooved-288mm-5-stud-25mm-Thick-Pair-NEW-/310411912196?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AVW%7CModel%3AGolf&hash=item4845fde404 They sell groved and drilled discs for £60 a pair! Has anyone used these before or am I better going to TPS / Euro for a set? Cheers
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i'll keep an eye out for you guys in the club camping and try and come over to say hello, im going with the T.I.T.s (quite literally their club is called The Improved Transporter Society) Haha mines a grey mk2 on cream D90's if u see it about, will probably give it some abuse on the quarter Friday if its dry
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And then turbo that... haha
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I'll be bringing on over for a weekend in august to catch up with a mate but not there yet haha
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Have a feel around inside the car, behind the centre console. If it feels a little damp in there could be the heater matrix leaking? Just had to change that on my mk2 and its the same matrix as mk3's so maybe prone to the same problem?
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I'm going to get some prices on getting the turret supports machined and see if they'll do any discounts for bulk orders
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I'm toying with the idea of changing the final drive in my standard vr6 gearbox, doesn't need a rebuild or anything. All the gears are good just bin reading a lot lately about changing the final drive ratio can transform the whole vr engine. From what I've read 3.68 Final Drive seems the best choice maybe going up towards 3.8. I believe the G60 box has a 3.68 final drive gear as standard but two questions really. Are there any more common vw 02A or 020 gearboxes that make use of that or similar ratio as I believe both fit into a vr6 02A box? Please correct me if I'm wrong as the more I read u
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You can go down a scrap yard and grab a port out of any vw from mid 90's. Hopefully there should be something down the local scrappy!
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I have been looking into ways of making lengths of carbon fibre tube but if I made the tube myself then I would have to just use normal lay up resin. I don't have access to a oven to bake prepreg carbon in but with my engine bay being so empty the bar doesn't actually need any bends in it, I've looked and can fit a straight piece of pipe so will probably buy a pre made length of carbon fibre from a manufacturer. Just seeing if there was any interest so that it could keep the costs down!
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I've been looking around the internet and reading up a few places and can't see much regarding vw specific carbon fibre parts. I'm thinking about making a strut brace for my vr6. Drawn up the plates in CAD that will sit on each suspension turret and going to get these water jet cut in steel. I was going to use a steel bar as well but now the more i think about it the more im tempted to use a carbon fibre tube. Wondering really if I made a few would anyone else be interested?
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i don't think a vr6 turbo in a mk2 is ever going to be a boring car looks quality dude, looking through all this just makes me want to turbo mine haha
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ah cheers for that, i'll get on the look out for a 10 bar gauge then cheers. had heard that it sees above that on start up but then once warm runs at just a bit less than 5 bar.
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well im sure ul will find us we wont be hard to miss ..... lol I'm sure the collection of 6 cylinders will give it away haha, if anyone is driving up from down south though I'm coming from Bournemouth so would be well up for the company for the drive!
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ah cheers for that don i guess its worth giving it a clean first see if it improves but at the end of the day if it does only cost 50 or 60 quid i might just buy a new one for the sake of a part that's probably 15 or so years old
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i did think about giving tps a bell Monday morning and seeing what they say!
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cheers for that dude ill have a look tomorrow and give it a go before buying a new maf
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ipa? what's that? doing part time bar work only a beer comes to mind but i don't think you mean to clean it with beer Haha
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well I've just drove 10 miles to work with the maf unplugged and it made no difference to how it ran, guess there's the problem Haha i did wonder about cleaning it but wasn't sure how much effect it'd have
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I will keep you posted going to have a look this morning before I go to work. I've bin reading up though about using a mk4 MAF sensor becasue they are about £60 instead of £250 for the vr6 ones! Its the size of the housing thats different both sensors have the same Bosch part number aparently. So just have to swap the actual sensor over to the vr6 housing. If this all goes well I will keep you posted, no point spending more money than neccerssary on the same part!
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on the diagnostics page it was getting a reading from the maf but i guess that just shows its got power could still be wrong. when i drive home tonite i'll unplug it for the drive see how it runs, cheers guys
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got a bit of a running problem at the moment, my golf idles fine but struggles a little firing up at first and when driving when low down in the revs if u put ur foot down it almost misfires and struggles to get going for a second then picks up and runs fine once it gets revving. its bin plugged in to vagcom and the mass air flow was reading as normal and there were no fault codes showing up. my thoughts at the moment are that it is likely to be the coilpack?
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I've brought a set of gauges and senders off ebay, when I looked at them the oil pressure sender has 10 bar printed on the side of it and I have a 5 Bar VDO gauge that is also a genuine audi vw gauge. The sender is new. I raised this point with the seller that the gauge and sender do not match but he reckons he's running the same set up with no problems. Surely a 10 bar sender is going to be sending the wrong information to a 5 bar gauge?
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Yeah im going to look into it properly before i start taking a soldering iron to my clocks haha
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cheers for the reply, yeah Ive bin looking into it a little and theres a guide on an american forum where a guy split the clocks and the LCD displays are actually just back lit so take the LCD's off and then I should be able to just change the LED's behind that! in theory haha
