akz786

just another question on top of that, wat is the box behind it the plastic one? whats contained within it? as mine has oil around it!

what I mean was that the clamps are at the highest position i.e at the top hence not accessible with a spanner or ratchet. I cant move the glass down as i think the motor has gone. Previously i just chopped the whole regulator using a cutter - but this time i think the regulator is ok and the motor has gone so i dont want to damage the regulator whilst trying to remove it.

The only problem is the glass is stuck it won't move at all..I can't get at the clamps to free the glass

I have in the past managed to remove these in the past but when regulator has failed, this time i replaced a new drivers side window regulator last month. Now all i get is a click sound, which suggests its possibly the motor now. I did check all connections etc. any easy way to remove the regulator whist the glass is at the top without wrecking it? those bolts on the clamps seem impossible to access!

and surely is was that the fuse in position 1 had half fallen out! lool - i didnt even imagine that both left and right headlights had individual fuses for dipped and main beam! oh well learning process for all ....thanks guys

Just remembered that I have changed the brake light switch over the weekend, with an aftermarket one as original was not working...Hmmm could this be the issue? although I cannot see a connection that the brake light circuits have with main headlights? Thanks

you mean the headlight switch? thats strange as it does activate the lights on and off, just one connector does not get power, I can check that out though.... Thanks

1997 VR6 - In-Pro mk4 style ones,no problems for 2 years, except yesterday the dipped for nearside does not work, I have obviously changed the bulb and tried the new bulb on the otherside where it works. side lights and main beams work on both headlights, so strange issue...seems its the connector perhaps? My question is could this be a break in the connector or loom of headlight, anyway i can diagnose this perhaps with multimeter? Thanks

Yes you can...as rule of thumb G11 (old blue stuff) + G12 (old pink stuff) DO NOT MIX G12+ will mix with both of them.... However to increase efficiency, just drain it all out and use fresh G12+, has better properties on its own I believe. Hope this helps.....

*****UPADTE ***** issue resolved! , was HT lead no6 - had no spark to it at all so will get a good set on there - also changed the Lambda sensor which was shot but this did not create the misfire. Thanks for all your help guys

yes on idle, the engine is vibrating as opposed to its normal idle conditon as I can feel this through the steering wheel ...tbh im guessing 5 and yes it could be 4 but I would not be sure - im not confident on pulling HT leads whilst engine is running lol ...any other way i can check this? does anyone reckon a faulty lambda sensor can cause this too?

Hi - im getting a misfire/hesitation like its running on 5 cylinders, I know it could be leads and/or plugs or even coilpack, but when I scanned it with VAG-COM its comming up with Oxygen Sensor (lambda probe) - no signal - my question is, could the lambda sensor cause the misfire/hesitation TIA

yeah its a bit hit and miss really, the only issue is that thread and size is something I could not find anywhere apart from dealer and they dont seem to have many in stock (although they can be ordered in)

lol looks as though me and you have got the same issue. Just a bit of advice the caliper carrier is held with 2 bolts which are known to get seized so if you can get under the car or on a ramp just look at the back with rear wheels off and spray some WD40 or lubricating fluid and leave for few hours one these can come off its easy from there,im sure I have seen a guide somewhere I will have a look and see if i can find you the link

Hi Im going to get mine from GSF near heathrow airport same price as the cheaper one you mentioned apparently the later models use the generic ones which is good for us! Mine is 1997 highline too the problem with replacing these is that you have to take off the caliper brake disc ect so looks like I might as well spend some time and change my rear brakes too!