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jims13

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Posts posted by jims13

  1. FAQ for turbo-ing your 12v/24v vr6

    in Engine Tuning

    Posted

    looks like its the same questions again .

    so to save them having to be asked i thought id put this brief email together that should answer most of your questions.

    As you may or may not know , there are different ways to turbo a vr6 . ill list the main parts, its for you to decide were you purchase them and who fits them. remember its normally the fitment that screws up the running once its all together.

    ill ammend it when i have time ( and correct my spelling mistakes )

    people can add to it if they wish

    any comments made that drag any company down will be removed .

    turbo manifold - spa , ebay etc or your favored tuning firm

    turbo - a externally wastegated unit is best . take your pick , ive successfuly used ebay twice and made 390 bhp at 17psi with supporting mods , else check out garrett or the normal tuning firms

    you can spunk upwards of 1000 pounds on a new garrett unit , or as little as 180 ish on a ebay unit , ebay units tend to need a oil restrictor in line with the feed

    inlet manifold - works well as is , short runners help with less pipework and on big hp/trq applications will make more power , but they do add upwards of 500 pounds to your build

    injectors - Source new or recon'd , ebay is your best bet or a tuning firm , 440 cc units are popular .

    maf housing - UM , Phirm , Ebay , a 4" maf housing is needed for anything over say 280 ish bhp . again choose carefully and id suggest buying this from the same place as the software

    software - UM , Stealth, Phirm , Storm developments .

    you only want to buy this once , choice is yours , prices are all similar i imagine . most people seem concerened with price , rather than the time thats gone into it or the support you get .

    arp headbolts - straight from arp , or your favored tunning firm . i would always fit these . Down to you if you fit the bottom end stuff . perhaps not needed for anything less than 450 bhp .

    spacer plate - again use The phirm , UM , or Ebay . you need to pay attention to the thickness of it as it does go hand in hand with your ultimate trq / power goal .

    headgasket - self explaintry .. remember to get the metal layered unit, part no's on here if you look . remember the copper spray , i always use it .. works well for me .

    cams - ive used 263's to very good effect , but your dont have to buy them . 268's dont seem to work as well according to the graphs ive seen .

    exhaust - i made a additional 30 bhp from fitting a 3" system . up to you to decide where from .

    downpipe - less restriction here is better . ideally 3" all the way , again UM , The Phirm , Stealth or your freindly powerflow dealer

    external wastegate - spa, tial , ebay generic unit . again choice is yours , look at the size of it e.g 44mm , it does matter and should be sized with the turbo, and you goal for bhp .

    clutch - i used a helix unit , very good clutch imho . you standard clutch will take around 290 ish bhp , and maybe 300 ish lbft or trq , but if you drive it like you stole it , it wont last . Expect to spend upwards of 350 pounds just on the clutch alone .

    intercooler - this will more than likely be a core from ebay . as people generally fit them behind the front bumper . its all custom fit stuff.

    Fpr - keep the standard 3 bar unit.. you dont need a 4 bar one .

    fuel pump - standard units are hit and miss ive seen some be ok and not lean out at the top end on cars making 280 ish bhp , others havent made that .. a walbro unit is the best bet . all of our favorite tuners sell these , as does the bay of e . remeber to get the fitting kit else you wont be able to place it far enough down into the tank .

    odds and sods - once you have brought what you think you need, you will also need, fuel lines, hose clips , tape , cable ties , etc .. this little lot alone can cost you big.

    remember , before you start you need a idea of where you want to end up .. you can build a < 300 bhp vr6 turbo for around 1000 pounds , using methods detailed elsewhere on this forum .

    For applications over > 300 , id suggest decent manifolds, turbo's and software .

    The reason you pay good money for a kit from any tuner is that its known to work and time and effort has gone into it to produce reliability .

    dont if you buy all your kit yourself from seperate suppliers , then moan at a software supplier when it doesnt run just as you would like .. as there are so many varibles its untrue .

    if your doing a 24v conversion the same information mainly applies , parts required are roughly the same , but more expensive by roughly 20/30 %

  2. 4" maf housing

    in Engine Tuning

    Posted

    remember that if you choose a maf housing , your best to buy it from the same place that will supply the software .

    else it may well cause problems when you come to run it

    UM / The Phirm , sell a package that works very well.

    again the choice is yours

  3. remap

    in Engine Tuning

    Posted

    i dont hardly post on here anymore , but i will say this ..

    IVE had nothing but help from UM UK, and would use there products time and time again. both software and hardware.

    my vr6 turbo, seat cupra and audi s4 all ran UM Software . and were 100 % better than what arrvied with them .

    my 2 freinds that had vr6's ran a UM ecu and gained both bhp / trq and general driveability.

    i have logs to back this up .

    infact the majority of turbo / supercharged cars on here run UM software or hardware

    in my varied experiance , when people dont get the results they want , they are all but to happy to blame anyone but their

    machinery . most faults can be tracked to poor installation of products or associated gubbins .

    in general , if you ask nicely and aint rude you get a polite reply . and has as been pointed out , most tuners dont have time to answer the same generic questions, that can be answered with a search bar / engine

    remember the mk3 vr6 , mk4 4mo and mk4 r32 are all now very old platforms , and as such you wont find any reputable tuner spending much time on them .

    as for a shitty stick , that software made i think 218bhp at a independant rollers with cams, exhaust and filter . thats damm good , for a n/a engine , remember the factory qoute around 174 bhp .. 44bhp increase from factory qouted figures ..

    everyone has good and bad experiances , intrestingly only the bad ones materialise on threads like this .

    lee , you can use UM , Stealth , Superchips, AMD etc the choice is yours . your ecu will need socketing , it cant be done over the obd port . if your worried about travelling them choose somewhere local .

  11. jims new mk2 golf gti 8v

    in Members Rides and Event Photos

    Posted

    well, its been a bit as i been busy doing this and that , but i;ve decided to give my mk4 tdi to my wife and sell her astra , and use the funds from that to get me a new / old car.

    so last sunday i picked up a j plate 8v gti.. 1 owner from new, tax and mot

    now its got a few problem shall we say, and it was advertised on the bay o E with most of them , such as.

    doors not locking

    boot not opening

    car dont idle

    car jerks under throttle

    exhaust blowing

    now that is what he said . i found the following

    door dont lock as every door card has been off and the lock mechs butchered.

    boot dont open for the same reason

    car dont idle as it had a broken dip stick holder and the pipe on the breather to rocker cover was missing

    a massive hole in the subframe at the front

    suspension fecked

    one bald tyre

    misfire at 3k - 4k in any gear

    leads and cap fecked

    passenger seal holed in door shut area

    no blue temp sender unit .. well thats why it dont rev properly .

    over the past few days i fixed all of it bar the subframe. i picked one of those of for 55 quid , inc a full piper stainless system , which i'm fitting tonight in a bit

    and ive just bagged some bilsteins and a few other bits for 30 quid.. result .

    ill post some pics of it as i go .

    its now in a much better state than it was, bodywork aint to bad and will be easy to sort .

    future plans include a new engine.. i m thinking 24v , no idea if n/a or charged as yet

    i must say i really do like it, and im sure it wont be going anywhere for a good few years .

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