Philly-R6
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Posts posted by Philly-R6
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Hi,
The relay in position 6 of the fusebox (from memory) is the flasher relay: this does the on-off-on switching and should be common to left and right.
The next bit is the indicator switch on the steering column. This switches the flasher relay output to the intended direction (plus the Hazard lights switching).
The indicator lights on the dashboard are simple 12v bulbs and are fed directly from the wire to the relevant front indicator.
As the fog light comes on with the indicator, there is probably a ground problem in your tail light cluster.
The current should flow through the indicator switch to the indicator bulb, and to the car body (back to the battery).
When there is corrosion in the cluster, the ground to the car body is impeded and so the current flows via ANY route (possibly through the fog light) to get to the body. Both lights then appear dim as instead of 12v appearing across the indicator bulb, we get 12v across two bulbs to get to ground.
Remove the rear clusters and clean the contacts to the wiring harness, and the contacts to the bulbs.
Report back with your progress...
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Hi,
It sounds coincidental that the new key breaks your indicators.
Are the driver's side indicators on full, or are they dim? Does another light come on at the same time - maybe a tail light?
The relay in position 6 of the fusebox (from memory) is the flasher relay: this does the on-off-on switching and should be common to both sides.
The next bit is the indicator switch on the steering column. This switches the flasher relay output to the intended direction (plus the Hazard lights switching).
If the indicator lights are dim or other lights come on at the same time, you have a ground problem.
This is probably in the rear light cluster, or could be in the front lights, too.
Take the clusters out and clean the contacts to the connectors and the bulbs.
Lastly, re-seat relay 6 in the fusebox to ensure the contact is sound.
Report back with your progress...
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How did you get on with your checking of your connections?
It sounds like it can only be your HT leads or the connection to the coil pack.
Ensure the HT lead is pushed home onto each spark plug.
You could remove each spark plug in turn and check each one is sparking out of the engine. You may need assistance to crank the engine or hold the spark plug against the engine (with insulated grips).
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From memory, there is a black metal bracket that the starter motor is bolts to (two long bolts), and the other end sits on the front engine mount.
The plastic holder sits on top of this bracket and clips onto it.
I'll try and get a pic this week...
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Welcome VGPowered,
I think that plastic bracket sits on top of the front engine mount and the connectors for the Crank sensor and the front Knock sensor connect up to the loom. The harness to the alternator also clips in at the top.
In the picture (Gearbox end to the bottom of the pic - radiator to the left), you can just see it under the air-con pipe.
Hope that helps.
Have fun!
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Some variations of the engine electronics have big differences. For example, some have a six-pin MAF sensor, where later systems have a 4-pin MAF. So there could be loads of incompatibilities if you are to mix and match.
If you just have the engine currently, I would recommend getting all the wiring, ECU and sensors from one car. Maybe as late a car as you can - the last of the MK3's was near OBD2 compliant and would fit the engine as-is. You would then get a better/faster ECU, too. You can even get the immobiliser transponder on the key (or have it mapped off at a cost).
If you have everything apart from the ECU, your part number seems correct for a 1994 Golf: control unit for fully elec- tronic ignition; lam... - Golf(GO) [EUROPA 1994 year] (7zap.com)
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If you are looking for new badges, you could try Heritage Parts:
VW Golf Mk3 Body Parts | Heritage Parts Centre UK
You will have to pay postage on top of the prices, though.
Don't forget trusty eBay, as well!
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I've just read your wanted post - I guess you found your problem!
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Hmm - there are only the three mounts holding the engine/gearbox in place. The back two on the steering subframe and the front on the engine subframe.
Does the front subframe look twisted?
Is it really the engine hitting - or something else?
If you have someone else with you, try to see if the engine moves on the clutch.
- Put your foot on the brake
- Select first
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Bring the clutch up (don't let the car move!).
- There should be a bit of movement, but not that much.
- Repeat with reverse gear.
Report back with your findings...
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If your fan only works on full speed, it is the fuse on the resistor that has blown.
Fan speed thermal fuse repair - THE Corrado Forum Knowledge Base (the-corrado.net)
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To confirm: the temperature gauge works on your old cluster, but doesn't on the new cluster?
I think the temperature is supplied by the Yellow 4-pin sensor on the thermostat housing (the Blue 2-pin sensor tells the ECU the temperature).
If you have a multi-meter, measure the resistance across pins 2 - 3. Low values (around 30 Ohms) indicate hot and higher values (around 260 Ohms) mean cold.
Guage and Instrument Testing with Special Tool VW 1301 (bentleypublishers.com)
You could put a paper clip (or similar) across the pins 2 & 3 and see if the temperature gauge moves to HOT.
But if the gauge works on your old cluster, the temperature gauge on the new cluster is faulty.
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Just stumbled across this English PDF from Bosch - Systematic Testing of Lambda Sensors
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The lambda sensor has a connector mounted on the rear engine mount.
Unplug the lambda connector.
Using a multimeter, check the following:
1. Heater Element
- Check you have 12v across the heater element (the two white wires - on the car side of the connector!)
- Check the resistance of the heater element; looking for a few Ohms across it (same two wires as last step - on the sensor side of the connector)
2. Sensor
- check low resistance of grey wire from lambda connector to ECU - pin 42
- check low resistance of black wire from lambda connector to ECU - pin 20
Re-connect the Lambda sensor.
If you have VCDS, there may be some measuring blocks to hint at what the O2 sensor is doing:
https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/index.html
At this point, you may need a new Lambda sensor...
I would check for air leaks on the inlet route before buying sensors, though.
Have fun!
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It sounds like the Immobiliser is your issue?
If you have VCDS (Licenced version) you can interrogate the Immobiliser module and see if there are any problems.
You can go the route of re-mapping the ECU - where the tuner will solder in a new memory chip and program it to remove the immobiliser.
You may as well get it tuned at the same time?
There may even be ECUs with the Immobiliser already deleted on auction sites or forums (or even this Facebook thing).
There are a few Tuners wo can do this - Stealth springs to mind, but I've never used them.
Or, you can go the route of fixing your factory immobiliser.
You can try replacing the receiver ring around the ignition barrel. This comes with the harness that connects straight to the immobiliser module (near your spoiler switch).
To do anything more with the immobiliser module you need the 4-digit PIN code for it. You can recover the PIN using VagTacho, but you need a key with a matching transponder.
If you are around South Manchester, I can help you work out what to do next...
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There is a document named g3vr6ecu95on.pdf which is correct for the MK3 Golf OBD2 engine.
Have a rummage here on rubjonny's page:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_V9-6xfgGlINzhhM2IyNmItOWRhZS00MzBkLTk2MTEtNGIyZDFmMDg0NWM2
Golf 3 documents start g3, Golf 4 start g4...
a2resource.com is useful, too...
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Sounds like you are right about the rings.
Last engine I rebuilt, the rings were too long once they were fitted to the piston and then compressed (to slide into the cylinder).
We had to trim the rings down to the correct length to allow for the correct gap when placed inside the cylinder.
That could be where all your resistance is coming from...
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You are right to be wary - if you can't turn it by hand, the starter isn't going to turn it over (when its all back together) either.
I would expect you should be able to turn the crank using a small ratchet.
Can you undo the big end caps for each piston and see if the crankshaft rotates freely on its own - without the pistons?
Then re-add a piston at a time to see how it affects the "turning load"?
You could have the wrong size bearing shells and when torqueing the bearing caps they could now be pinching?Maybe your machine shop could better direct you...
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You have an interesting problem there.
The first three codes hint at wiring problems, as you've done the mechanical timing. I can't find your last code.
18728/P2296/008854 - Ross-Tech Wiki Fuel pressure regulator and wiring/connector.
16727/P0343/000835 - Ross-Tech Wiki Camshaft position sensor and wiring/connector.
P0366 - Ross-Tech Wiki Other camshaft position sensor and wiring/connector.
Maybe swap over the camshaft sensors, clear the codes and see if the error follows the sensor?
P0366 mentions something about the Camshaft adjusters binding - could this be an issue?
Have fun
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Hi Wiggy and welcome!
You would probably have to do just as much work as any other engine transplant as not a lot is compatible with where you are starting from.
The Mk2 / Mk3 and Corrado have the "CE2" fusebox under the dash by your feet, but the Mk4 and Mk5 are different wiring systems, so there is a bit of work adapting the engine wiring and other bits to match the car you have (unless you convert the whole car to Mk4/5 wiring?).
The ECU and engine electronics are a lot different from that in your car, as the systems are developed over time. For example; the R32 engine wants 4 Lambda sensors and the VR6 engine requires one. Then the ECU needs the immobiliser setup (or deleted).
You may be best looking for a complete donor car - if you have the space to store it.
Its all do-able but a fair bit of work.
Good luck with whatever you decide - just don't underestimate the effort, money and time these things demand.
Have fun!
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The brake light is one circuit:
Fuse20 -> Brake pedal switch -> Left brake bulb -> Right brake bulb -> common ground in hatch -> common ground in boot
So check your brake bulb or the connection with the bulb holder?
Does your brake light flicker full brightness (on / off), or does it dim - like a bad earth?
Is it both brake lights? Could be the brake pedal switch? The ABS does know when the brake pedal is pressed or not, so could be related?
Also, the list of systems affected does make me think a bad earth is causing voltage drops - so things don't get the full 12v all the time.
This is a pain as you will need to trace the circuits to find the problem, which requires time...
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I bought a set of Samco hoses (a while back). The only dealer who actually returned a phone call was Merlin Motorsport. Give them a call (with your chassis number) and they should supply you a single Samco hose? Worth a call to them.
Also, just looked on ebay and there is a new set of Samco hoses for under £90!
You have to read the description carefully, as it sounds too good a deal...
Silicone Coolant Hose Kit For VW Golf MK3 VR6 2.8 V6 1994-1998 Black | eBay
Good luck!
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Excellent result!
Ensure the locking bar (running along the middle of the connectors on the back of the fuse box) is slid all the way over, so it is flush with the side.👍
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The dealer-fit scorpion alarm cuts three circuits - the starter, the coil and fuel pump.
Intermittent problems are difficult to fix as you don't know if you are measuring the real value or the intermittent...
You need to determine if the coil or fuel is the problem (or both!).
The fuel pump could be immobilised through the signal from the ECU (to stop the relay energising) OR the wire from the output of the relay to the fuel pump.
You could put a 12v LED across the fuel pump - so you can see if there is 12V across it.
Beware that the fuel pump is controlled by the ECU: only when you crank the engine is 12V across the pump. When the ignition is turned on, the fuel pump is primed with a short pulse.
You could also put a 12V LED across the connector to the coil pack - Is there 12V across pins 1 & 5 (guessing your car is a coil pack).
Then put the LED across each other pin and ground - when you crank the engine, each pin should flicker the LED as the ECU fires the spark plugs.
Once we know which circuit is faulty, we can delve in a little deeper to find the real underlying problem.
Good luck! Report back with your findings...
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Drivers side indicators permanently on
in I.C.E, Security an Electrical
Posted
Excellent!
I wouldn't have worked that out...