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jsh712p

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Everything posted by jsh712p

  1. jsh712p
    This may sound silly- but arent most of the components in the engine bay in the same place? Does someone know the exact difference in the kits? Im guessing the connections in the cabin for heating? From the pics ive seen they are both 7 piece. US Ebay seems to have some bargains you see! Cheers
  2. jsh712p
    Hi guys - Ive spotted a small leakage of coolant from the plastic join in the top rad hose that provides a T off for the water heated inlet manifold (or at least the throttle housing). The part number on the bit is N 90723001. VW cant find this - the best alternative I could find is : 1H0122101E - its £73! What I wanted to know is has this all-in-1 pipe replaced the old one? Because the pic in ETKA looked nothing like whats on my car? Euro car parts do this one for about the same price as VW. Also - would silicone hoses be worth considering for this item? Any advice greatly received as its c
  3. jsh712p
    Saw this on cluibgti - a group buy for schrick - if there is 15 takers, then you get them for £730 odd - which i though was pretty good. Look here: http://www.g-werks.com/Site/Default.aspx?PageURL=Special%20Offer_SchrickInletManifoldVR6 Check out this: http://www.clubgti.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?p=1090000#post1090000 for more info! :-p
  4. jsh712p
    Hi all, Ive got a 1997 VR6 HL. The ABS light has been on and off for a while. Through elimination I have worked out that the fault is the ECU side of the connector. Ive replaced sensors, checked continuity etc - so im sure there is something amiss within the ECU. My question is can you remove the ABS ECU from the pump/regulator without draining down the brakes and removing all the pipe unions. There doesnt appear to be enough room on mine to drop the ABS ECU down and out - without it fouling the pipes. And secondly - if I can't fix the ECU (I do electronics/soldering etc) then does anyone on h
  5. jsh712p
    I recently had this. I bought new seals - but when I got the thing apart the actual plastic of the main housing section had failed. So I actually needed the main thermo housing. My local VW had it in stock for about £22 or so - if yours looks suspect then replace. Also - its probably worth replacing the thermostat while you are in there - this actually stuck shut on line and caused overheating - for a £5 part its north worth stripping all that out again. Do a search on Google for vr6 thermostat housing image - there is a good website with pics and description etc. Good luck, and remember to
  6. jsh712p
    My mates Corrado VR6 (K reg) stalls when he comes off the throttle. It seems to happen when both hot and cold. The engine runs fine under acceleration. I want to connect to my Vag Com, but I have an OBD2 VR6, and we cant make any sense of the connections on the corrado - 2 double connectors - the voltages of which dont match the ones on my car (is I dont want to blow up the car/laptop!) Any help on either of these matters would be much appreciated. Cheers Martin
  7. jsh712p
    It could be something simple like a damaged plug lead. Who fitted the replacement plugs and did they use the correct tool to remove the plug leads? - they are easily damaged. Failing that - you really need to get it plugged into some diagnostics - something like VagCom on a laptop would be ideal -
  8. jsh712p
    Hi Well - the complete Koni kits usually come with 'unbranded' springs if I recall. Koni dont make springs - so its normally the distributor (or someone equivalent) to match the shocks with springs. As for fitment - I believe that VR6'd from 94 on will all use the same shocks - as will a number of others golfd - such as the TDI's etc - im not too sure. Locate a parts catalogue like GSF and see what matches. If all else fails - then just say VR6 late '93 on !!
  9. jsh712p
    Hi I had the same problem. I decided on a set of Eibach springs - with a set of Gmax gas shocks. I wanted Koni shocks - but the complete set with Gmas shocks and eibachs came to £270! Im going to take the gamble - as the gmax have 3 yr warranty - and i only want the handling to be a bit better, and the ride a little lower - ill let you know how they turn out. I also replaced all the rubber mounts - tops at front, upper and lower at the back, as well as front bearing, rear bump stops and all new nuts and bolts - all from VW - cost about another £90 on top of the rest - so thats worth baring in
  10. jsh712p
    zonda - i got the info from a vw tech manual - it says about 'programming' the auto feature after the battery has been disconnected (dont know how relevant this is to all models). Basically you have the window(s) open, and then shut them using the key in the drivers door - when the window shuts keep the key in the lock position for about 2 secs. Then relock and hold for another 2 secs. Repeat again twice I think, and thats it? I may have got the wrong end of the stick - but thats what I thought it meant. I assume that the controller for the winder (the bit attached to the motor mechanism?) de
  11. jsh712p
    Hi, Got a funny prob with the Vr.....drivers side electric window - the 'auto winding' (after holding the button) works for up and down on the passenger window, and works for down on the drivers window, but doesnt work on the drivers window on the way up? What could be causing that? It doesnt appear to struggle or be sticking? Ive read in the manual how to 'programme' the auto feature, and it doesnt make any difference. Any one know how the mechanism works, and any things I should check? The main power to the door recently required re-connecting as it split - could this be part of the problem?
  12. jsh712p
    Hi. My first post - should be getting a Golf VR6 Highline in a week or so - got a question about diagnostics. Has anyone got experience using the various cables/interfaces etc to connect to the cars OBD2 port. Do some cables have the interfaces built in? I have seen some on ebay as "cable only - you dont need am interface" - and wondered if these would work/be safe to use. Any views or experience welcome. Thanks.
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