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antera309

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Posts posted by antera309

  2. My New seats

    in General Chat

    Posted

    Hey VentoVR6. You couldn't do me a big favour could you?

    Would it be possible to take a picture of the heated seats wiring loom and post it here for me? My local VW dealer is having trouble finding the right part.

  3. My New seats

    in General Chat

    Posted

    You got a bargain there. If the guy hadn't have ended the auction early, he could have fetched £600 for that stuff no problem.

    Fitting of the seats is straightforward. I did mine in 30 minutes. You'll need a set of Torx (6-point star) sockets, a pair of pliers and a big screwdriver.

    The rear seat base is a straight bolt on (the hinges unbolt from the chassis).

    To remove the rear backrest, first tilt them forwards, then look for two hooks at the bottom corners. These are pulled back using the screwdriver. In the centre (where the two halves of the backrest meet) there are 2 circlips that are screwdrivered out, allowing both parts of the backrest to be lifted up and out.

    The fronts slide straight out (rearwards) once you remove the retaining pin at the front of the centre guide rail and the plastic trims from the back of the runners (the inboard one just pops off, the outboard one is held in with a metal clip). Installation is the reverse of removal.

    The door cards are a stright swap, unless you want to sell them to me! ;-)

    [ Edited Wed Mar 17 2004, 11:44AM ]

  5. New Electrical Fault 2day...Help

    in Engine Maintenance and Problems

    Posted

    If the + and - wires are both damaged and touching each other occasionally then it will blow the fuse exactly as you describe. It's worth a look.

    There's no "central" control unit for the e/w on a Mk3. Each window has its own control unit, attached to the bottom of the motor. If your wiring turns out to be OK, this is the next place to look. Try disconnecting the r/h regulator and test, then reconnect it and disconnect the l/h regulator. Test again.

    [ Edited Tue Mar 16 2004, 08:40AM ]

  10. ABS problems

    in Wheels, Brakes, Suspension and Steering

    Posted

    My ABS light comes on all the time. Fault code has been read - turns out it's a failing ABS pump.

    I haven't asked about a replacement at my local VW dealer, 'cos I know the response will start with a chuckle and "Are you ready?....."

    Does anyone know if you can get exchange/reconditioned ABS Pumps from anywhere?

  11. [moved] KONI/Eibach HELP ASAP PLEASE!!!

    in Wheels, Brakes, Suspension and Steering

    Posted

    Yes, this one caught me out too. My guess is that your car is a 1993 or 1994 model (manufacture date, not necessarily date first registered, which could be 1995)

    The top spring retaining caps differ on early and later model Mk3s. 1994 was the changeover year.

    The early model retaining cap is smaller than the later one. Most suspension kits are made for the later type, so the caps you've got will be too small for your springs, making the front of the car too low and enabling you to turn the springs with the car jacked up exactly as you describe.

    The good news is that all you need to change are the top retaining caps themselves. Get a pair of 1995-> spring retaining caps @ £25 from VW. Although not essential, it's a good idea to change the rubber strut top mounts as well.

    The bad news is that you've got to take your front struts apart again to fit them!

    Don't drive the car until you've changed the caps, as the springs COULD jump off the caps causing body damage and possible loss of control.

    [ Edited Mon Mar 15 2004, 08:00PM ]

    [ Edited Mon Mar 15 2004, 08:01PM ]

  13. How much would you pay?

    in Interior

    Posted

    £350 is very cheap for a Mk3 full leather interior. If the seats are in good condition, go for it!

    They usually go for £500-£600. I paid £550 for mine, with door cards (although I couldn't fit them 'cos they're for a 3-door). Mine are heated, but I didn't get the loom or the dash switch.

    Is the leather interior you've been offered for a 5-door or a 3-door?

  18. 24v vr6 conversion

    in Engine Maintenance and Problems

    Posted

    I've seen the Mk4 1.8T engine fitted to a Mk1, I imagine that fitting a 4Motion or R32 engine would be of a similar level of complexity, with the added complication of converting the 4wd gearbox to 2wd.

    Fitting the 4wd would involve chopping your car to pieces. This month's VWm magazine features a 1.8T Mk1 with a 4wd system fitted, and the work he had to do putting it together was just mental. Lovely car though.

    As an alternative, how about fitting a 12v VR6, then fit a supercharger & Shrick 248 cams to it with the money you've saved? There's not too many supercharged VR6 Mk1s out there and it would absolutely go like stink!!

    [ Edited Sun Mar 14 2004, 10:40PM ]

  19. VR6 Conversion

    in Engine Maintenance and Problems

    Posted

    The craziest ideas are often the best. Look at Dubsport's cars and some of the stuff people are doing on the Continent.

    I've seen the VR6 egine dropped into Cabrios and every other model of golf, but never estates. Come to think of it, I've never seen a Mk3 estate with so much as a set of alloys fitted.

    I say go for it! With some choice bodystyling you would have a really unique motor. With some decent engine mods, you might even get a magazine feature on it.

    Get hold of cheap, tatty 5-door VR6 for £2000-ish and basically transfer everything over. This would probably work out cheaper than buying the bits individually and you'll end up with a better result, 'cos you'll be able to fit all the ancilliary VR6 stuff like the 'leccy windows, 'leccy sunroof, ABS etc from the donor car as well as the engine.

    The disadvantage of using a diesel model as a base is that you will need to replace the entire fuel system (tank, pump, fuel lines, fuel filter). Not too much of a problem if you've got a whole donor car to work with.

    [ Edited Sun Mar 14 2004, 10:21PM ]

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