VRTrickster 0 Posted July 10, 2006 Report Share Posted July 10, 2006 Having a few running problems with my VR after carrying out a few mods! Ive recently fitted 264 cams,ported inlet manifold and TB. Seemed to run fine for a while ,but then it began playing up! It starts up first time but you have to be gentle with it cause it can stall. It developed a misfire and I ended up replacing the coil ,plugs and leads. That sorted the misfire ,but now it seems to have a fuelling issue! The car cut out every now and then on every journey, so I cleaned the ISV. The idle got worse ,lumpy. I changed the blue temp switch as it sounded as though it may be running rich ,popping from exhaust etc. This didnt really change much so I ended up replacing the MAF today! Took the car for a spin to do basic settings and the idle was all over the place ,and stalled pretty much every junction! The car did seem to pull better I felt ,but the idle and stalling was pretty bad. I plugged the laptop in to try and carry out BS and cleared a fault which read something like " Lambda something not reached" went into BS and selected 001 but it would not let me select GO. Looking at the lambda level it was at 0.7900 or round abouts! Went back into fault codes and the same fault was there! Is this why I cant select go? Do you think most of my problems have been a fecked probe? This is really driving me mad and Ive been throwing money at it for long enough now !! Link to post Share on other sites
mightyvr6 0 Posted July 10, 2006 Report Share Posted July 10, 2006 Sounds like it could be the probe. Mine did the same (ran rich with similar symptoms) when my lamba went. I've got one for sale (nearly new) if you need it. Selling for £50 inc. p@p Link to post Share on other sites
VRTrickster 0 Posted July 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2006 Sorry copied and paste-ted this post from the corrado forum ,I have since renewed the probe and still have the same problem! Still dont know why I cant select go in the Basic Settings though either? Link to post Share on other sites
VRTrickster 0 Posted July 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2006 Sorry copied and paste-ted this post from the corrado forum ,I have since renewed the probe and still have the same problem! Still dont know why I cant select go in the Basic Settings though either? Link to post Share on other sites
Snedboy 0 Posted July 11, 2006 Report Share Posted July 11, 2006 I'm having the same trouble with my MK2 Golf VR6 conversion and would highly recommend NOT driving any distance whatsoever due to the fact i have just drove110/120 miles and from it backfiring and overfuelling my backbox heated up to such a high temp is was glowing bright red and set fire to the underseal next to my fuel tank!!!!!!!! :-# I haveant as of yet cleaned my ISV,Throttle Body or MAF yet but it's the first thing i'm doing tommorow!!Please be carefull and dont let what happened to me happen to you.Oh and any help with the above question would be greatly appreciated by me also Link to post Share on other sites
IbiVR 0 Posted July 11, 2006 Report Share Posted July 11, 2006 mmm, dont suppose its "Lamda control limit surpassed"?Strange one - theres several things that will make it run rich, but they will show up on VAGCOM.The fact you get a lambda fault indictaes maybe that - although it does read really rich - does it change at all or just sit at 0.79?A faulty probe is more likely to give a fault code like "open or short to ground" / "no signal, intermittant" / "Implausible signal"The only thing i can think of that will make it run that rich and not throw a code is the fuel pressure reg. If this has popped and your running pump pressure you will be really rich, and the ecu can only pull out so much fuel - then "lambda control limit surpassed".Tom. Link to post Share on other sites
VRTrickster 0 Posted July 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2006 On road test I disconnected the FPR vac hose and drove the car and it didnt seem to cut out ,or as much. Changed the regulator with one I had from a golf 3.0bar and its still got the same problem but doesnt cut out as much! I think this might just have something to do with me lowering the pressure? Is it because its not running right I cant select go in basic settings? Was starting to think maybe faulty ecu or someone has suggested a stuck injector maybe?Cheers for the help guys! Link to post Share on other sites
IbiVR 0 Posted July 11, 2006 Report Share Posted July 11, 2006 mmm odd. swapping for a 3 bar or removing the vac hose wont make a huge difference to a good running motor - fuel delivery is the square of fuel pressure, so you need 4 times the pressure to double the flow. going to 3 bar is a quater less so a 16th of the flow - removing the vac hose on a 4 bar will have the affect of running a 3 bar at full chat - but will make it run even richer at idle.Basically the tests youve done are fine to rule out the reg.an afr adaption of 0.79 like your seeing means your running about 25% to much fuel. If the ecu sees a faulty or missing probe it'll add in about 25% as a saftey.So my next test would be disconnect the probe. 1 of 2 things will happen. If something else is adding fuel and the probe is working and pulling out fuel, then removing it will force the ecu to not pull out fuel but add another 25% on stock. This on top of whatever may be throwing in fuel will mean the car pobably wont run.If the probe is giving false readings then removing it will make the ecu add in 25% to much fuel. If this is the fault you already have then it probaly wont make much difference.You may have to drive it a bit, you may not. unplug it - vagcom it to see if it registers "lambda short to ground or open circuit" then start it. If it doesnt register straight away you might need to drive it a bit. Try and do it with a warm engine.Of course this assumes that the 0.79 adaption is true, and with a faulty probe it may not so it's not a cast iron test. However if you do this test, verify there is no lambda on vag com, and it doenst run any differently then i'd stick me hand in my pocket and try a new probe.Tom. Link to post Share on other sites
VRTrickster 0 Posted July 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2006 Sorry forgot to mention I replaced the probe on saturday before I disconnected the FPR because it hadnt cured anything.I havent disconnected the battery after changing over the regulator ,would this need to be done? Link to post Share on other sites
IbiVR 0 Posted July 11, 2006 Report Share Posted July 11, 2006 odd as f*ck. No you shouldnt need to disconnect battery. wont do anything anyway.so it sounds like it defo overfuelling and its not the probe - although we dont know 100% that its not the wiring. Ecu doesnt read any other errors. fpr has been changed.You could be right with ecu. Can you get vagcom working well enough to look at the measuring blocks. block 2 I think will give you the injector ms. That will tell you if the ecu is forcing in more fuel or not. Idle should be around 2.7ms ish. If its vastly more (5-6) then you know definatly that the ecu is overfuelling it - will rule out something mechanical / injector etc.Tom. Link to post Share on other sites
VRTrickster 0 Posted July 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2006 Cheers now were getting somewhere ! Ill hook up vagcom tomorrow and take a reading but off hand I think the reading was around 4.50 to 5.00 ms but dont qoute me!Ill take a look tomorrow and let you know.Cheers! Link to post Share on other sites
magentaham 0 Posted July 13, 2006 Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 Just an opinion....over fueling to the point of stalling and raspy idle usually comes with "A LOT" of black smoke at the tail pipe. Overheating of "cat" is a LEAN burn rather than FAT.(like a partal plugged fuel filter) When you replaced the MAF did you inspect the rubber tube connecting it to the inlet.A small rip or tear will make you crazy. The US cars will run with the lambda completly disconnected. True, your milage suffers, but idle and speed are ALMOST unaffected. Get a can of starting fluid, in the morning when your little whatnot is cool, start it, and take a couple shots with it, at the inlet connections, injector o-rings ect. If your engine changes pitch at all you've got a vac. leak, which will cause all the symtoms you've got... Link to post Share on other sites
VRTrickster 0 Posted July 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 Plugged in vagcom last night and checked the injector reading ,and yes it was 4.90 to 5.10 ,so Ive ordered a ECU for £65 quid and hopefully that will sort it! Would a vac leak cause a reading like this ? Link to post Share on other sites
IbiVR 0 Posted July 13, 2006 Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 a dead maf will give you a duty of around that. When you replaced it did you check the wiring?Might be worth buzzing it through to the ecu plug to check its ok.Doesnt throw up any other codes though?Tom. Link to post Share on other sites
VRTrickster 0 Posted July 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2006 No it doesnt and the replacement MAF seemed to make the car pull a lot stronger than it ever did before ,so fingers crossed its the ECU! Otherwise thats more money thrown down the drain! Iwas disconnecting the batt from the pos term often could that of upset the ECU? Link to post Share on other sites
magentaham 0 Posted July 14, 2006 Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 I can't be alot of help. There seems to be alittle difference between US and Euro spec cars. However, unpluging the battery does nothing to the ECU except causing you to have to reset your readiness codes. Usually done by driving or your vagcom software. Also with such a heavy duty cycle on the injectors the ECU could interpet off idle rpm with low air flow through the Mass sensor and freek trying to figure whats going on. For your sake I hope your new ECU sorts it out. As Tom said check your wires and look for a air leak behind the sensor, intake ect... Link to post Share on other sites
VRTrickster 0 Posted July 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 Right Ive know put a second hand ecu on and it seems to be exactly the same as before ,so Im rather p**sed off now after spending another £70!Can a faulty ISV give the same problems?Heres what VAGCOM brought up :RPM 680 - 720TEMP 89.6LAMBDA .900 - 1.000 FLUCTUATINGTIMING 3 - 6 FLUCTUATINGINJ TME 3.80 - 4.00 FLUCTUATINGEN LOAD 4.O%THRT ANG 12.5INT TMP 61.6Ive inspected for air leaks and I dont think thats the problem. There are no fault codes present.I have now put back in the original FPR and flowed TB.Please stay with me on this one ,I need all the help I can get! Thanks for all the help already given! Link to post Share on other sites
matth76 1 Posted July 14, 2006 Report Share Posted July 14, 2006 Did you have your car remapped after having your cams and ported inlet mani fitted? Worth doing if you haven't to prevent pinking and get the fuelling spot on. Hope you get it sorted mate Link to post Share on other sites
VRTrickster 0 Posted July 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2006 Should the timing be moving up and down the way it is? Could it just be it needs remapping too set it up to the mods? Vince at Stealth racing did say it should run alright because the cam pro wasnt that wild. Can someone please tell me why I cant carry out basic settings ,is it just because the values arent correct to carry out the procedure?It did have an engine rebuild 30k ,but I dont think the head was fully rebuilt,stems valves etc. The valve train is quite noisey ,I replaced the followers when changing the cams. The valves were apparently re lapped and the seals replaced thats about it. Would a compression test answer whether or not its a head problem? Link to post Share on other sites
apd 0 Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 i would have thought a remap would have been essential to to alter air/fuelling to compliment any major mods.but vince wud know!do you feel like youve been round the houses?LOL Link to post Share on other sites
IbiVR 0 Posted July 17, 2006 Report Share Posted July 17, 2006 The timing will move around a bit at idle.The ecu is chucking in more fuel because something is telling it to. You should tweak the map for cams etc, but it wont really effect the idle all that much - certainly not as much as your seeing.Did it ever run right since the mods? sure the cams are timed up properly? If you changed the sprockets does the exhaust one have the magnet on it for the cam position sensor?Tom. Link to post Share on other sites
VRTrickster 0 Posted July 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2006 Right guys cheers for all the advice! Ive spoken to Vince today and Ive decided Im going to strip here again ,gearbox and all and make sure the timings spot on as the intermediate sprocket may of jumped a tooth when fidling with the chains! Going to flog the un needed stuff on ebay to try and get some money back. Now Im taking the gearbox off Im wondering if I should buy a lightened flywheel ,even though I cant really afford it! Link to post Share on other sites
VRTrickster 0 Posted July 31, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2006 Right Ive had the Gearbox out and the lower timing marks are spot on ,so it couldn't of slipped a tooth! Could this be because the cams are about a mm out on the aligning tool? This is really starting to wind me right up and my car is now in a 1000 pieces on my Dads drive in till I get to the bottom of the over fuelling! May be it could be injectors? Could it be the way the cams have been machined? Should have done it before had but can I compression test the engine just my turning the bottom pulley ,probably not. I think I might have to stick the old cams back in and see how they time up. Vince was the one that advised me to check the timing,and I have so what could it be? Could the cams being a smidgen out of line on the cam alignment tool make it fuel like that? I got the cams from Dougherty Race Cams of ebay and they are said to be new not regrinds. Has anyone fitted these cams and had problems with them? Link to post Share on other sites
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