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Attn: Those with uprated motor mounts


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Hey, I just had all three mounts - front and rear engine and gearbox swapped out for vf engineering poly mounts. I needed to replace the gearbox one as it was pissing oil out and the gearchange wouldnt always locate well.

The transformation in gearchange is unbelievably good, and the clicking I had in the stering just to the right of straight ahead has gone too! A lucky coincidence as I would never have put it down to that.

However! The noise vibration and harshness has increased too, and I think I may have gone past the point of a good compromise. The car puts down power really well, but the jolt and vibration through the whole cabin at startup, slipping the clutch whilst pulling away and worst of all, idling standing still while air con is on - its pretty average, (the last rattling the entire dash) and compromises a daily-run car.

The question is, do these "bed in"/"soften up" or otherwise get more bearable? Should I consider returning one of the motor mounts to (new) stock? I know I was warned, (kevheywire) but thought it was worth a crack.

I ve yet to run this new development past the gf, but I am certain it won't pass GO or collect $200.

Had the 312mm brakes done at the same time and they're great.

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i got the vibratech front mount fitted yesterday,and no porbs sofare iam think about the gearboks mount some time in the future, but i know a mate with a mrk4 turbo that got the polymount just under the gearboks,and it soften aften a month ore so,but ithink it´s hte rear one that gives you the grif now,giv it a week ore 2 if it doesn´t help the change the rear back too oe.

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I was told if you fit a rear one it will cause extra vibration as it's right next to the steering rack etc on right hand drive cars. You only really need to change the front and gearbox ones as they take most of the weight anyway. You will notice extra vibration for the first two to three weeks though even with just front and gearbox uprated mounts while they settle in.

If the vibration continues get the rear one changed to a new standard mount.

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Oh dear... I'm afraid that's poly for you mate. Poly is about as forgiving as a rozza that's rumbled you doing 110mph.

The front VF mount you can get away with as the cross member it sits on is isolated by 4 rubber bushes....but the rear and gearbox ones will transmit mucho vibration as they're directly bolted to the subframe, which is in turn directly bolted to the floor with no noise suppression medium. This is why VW used such soft mounts on the VR because it's not the smoothest of engines when pushed.

Unfortunately, just uprating the front puts too much load on the rear standard mount and the 'through bolt' often bends as a result and in some cases it will actuall snap, so you defo need to balance the opposing forces with equal stiffness front and rear.

I know all about that sudden "WHACK" through the car when starting on a cold morning, which is why I went with Vibratechnics cause they're on the nicer side of firm.

You will find during the summer that the VFs are slightly better though. Poly, like rubber, varies it's shure (stiffness measurement) with temperature, but they'll never be as forgiving as standards or Vibras. They won't bed in as such.

After you fitted them, did you leave the bolts loose and run the engine for a bit to let it 'settle' itself into position on the mounts, and then tighten the bolts? That sometimes helps.

Dunno what to suggest. If you're unhappy with the vibrations this early on, you'll never be satisified and it'll bug you constantly. Vibras is all I can suggest, but it does mean more cash :-(

What I've found works best is Vibratechnics road spec front and rear with a solid rubber MK2/MK3 diesel gearbox mount. The front and rear are the most important ones as they control the bulk of the fore and aft motion.... the box one is just to stop the engine flopping on the floor.

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Thanks for all the input.

Antera - I have vf mounts - vf mounts is vf mounts - they dont have road/race versions afaik.

RIX - The gearbox one must stay - in fact I think entry to the vr6oc must require proof that you have this mod - the gearchange is 10 times better, even before a short shift kit. I am sure that the shift is helped by all three mounts together, but most of the gearchange improvement MUST be form the small gearbox mount.

I am tempted to go the dub25 route - a stock mount at the back, but am wary of the imbalance/weakest link concept. I'm coming to the uk in June, so could allow for a rear mount form vibra, but what if its the same? I could do a swap with someone who only uses their car on a track, or has so many other mods that it is too compromised for daily use already - any takers on that idea?

Its a toss up between a stock rear and a vibratechnics rear as I see it, but even today it felt a bit better in most situations, except with air con on in traffic - its really awful.

kev- i didnt fit them - I had it done as part of a service and putting on the 312mm brakes, so I dont know if the car was run and then tightened - sounds like a good concept but I dont think it would make a night and day difference. I could slacken the bolts off (when the car is cold!) and turn it over, then turn off and tighten.

I'll give it a couple of weeks but the vibrations when stationary are starting to exacerbate rattles and squeaks in the dash and that shits me to tears!

If the car was only a track car, these would be a must, the power just goes down so well, and you can just about hear the exhaust manifolds pumping away just in front of you!

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I went ahead and brought all three mounts from VT. And now have been advised by the phirm that I should keep the rear mount stock and change the front and gearbox.

So now I have a brand new rear vibra mounts going spare. Any takers?

Subject to my small dilemna being fixed some other way, I may be a taker. Watch this space!

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if you guys say that its the gearboks mount that helps gearchange the most ill have to take you word for it,cause i would have think the most movment the will cause the bad gearchange is the front one????mine helped a fair bit cause it was bad before a got it in,after what kevhaywire

said i may need a rear one,i can see the point in it,any one got the number for the golf2/3 diesel solid gearboks mount???

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