Is fitting a shrick manifold/cams going to be the same as a head overhaul?

[matth76 1]

Stealth said to me they recommend a head overhaul when the VR6 reaches 100k miles. I'm not sure what this involves (I know it involves replacing the timing chain)...I assume it also involves replacing all the cams / tappets (followers). I'm not sure what a Shrick is... is this an inlet manifold complete with cams or do the cams have to be ordered separate to the actual shrick? WIll fitting a Shrick actually kill two birds with one stone and replace most of the parts that would normally be replaced in a head overhaul (apart from timing chain of course)?

Stealth quoted around 1500 for a head overhaul which includes timing chain and new clutch in this price. I know a shrick AND timing chain (and remap which would be required plus cams if they aren't included with each shrick) will cost a fair bit more but would be interesting what parts of the engine the Shrick replaces with new parts. In effect if you were in need of a partial head rebuild would a shrick do this job for you plus giving you a decent modification at the same time?

[Eat this 2]

schrick vgi is JUST the inlet manifold nothing to do with engine internals it was designed to work best with 268 cams

[VR6Rich 3]

Doesnt necessarily need doing at 100k unless you are having problems as im on 140k without any problems so far.

[matth76 1]

Maybe it's just the cam kit that would replace some of the engine internals... as I know new tappets/followers are used when a cam kit is installed. This I assume would remove any noisy tappet noise which is common on the vr6.

[Eat this 2]

well yes it would but noisy tappets is a vr6 trait its nothing to worry about

[Buzzark 0]

It's not something to worry about as such, but it does have effects.

The tapping is the sound of the cab lobe hitting the follower.

You get this because there is a gap between the 2.

The gap is there because the hydraulic bucket/follower isn't pumping up fully with oil.

The bucket isn't pumping up fully normally due to sludge in the oil blocking the oilway to the bucket and/or forming in the bucket shaft causing it to stick.

(VW recommends fully synthetic to prevent this sludge forming, but as the engine wasn't really designed for fully synthetic, it goes through it like water - rock <> hardplace)

OK, that's what's going on, but the outcome is that if the follower isn't at full pressure, you're not pushing the valve open the correct amount and performance will suffer a little as will smoothness as it won't affect all valves equally.

It may be possible to clear some sludge out by flushing the engine then going to a fully synthetic oil. Worth a try before plumping for that head rebuilt given the cost.