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Mk3 golf 24v swap advice


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Hi I will be doing the swap this weekend

Picking up engine wiring loom ECU alternator pas pully fri

Got new clutch flywheel

Service parts 2oil changes

Besides the a little spacer on one of the engine mounts and exhaust manifold

Whilst the dash is out I will be doing the heater matrix too

It's only an AUE

At the same time I'm refreshing the front bushes

Is the steering rack easy to get to with the engine and box out?

Thanks in advance

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well it's done running

Besides the little spacer on the front engine mount only issue I have is with the 12v cable throttle body having to make a bracket to hold it in place between the exhaust heat shield and the inlet manifold

Not really drove it enthusiasticly as got no powersteering and wheel bearing has got noisy

But it's well worh it

Either the 12v was down on loads of torque or this engine is awesome lol think the 4.4kg flywheel is helping a little too

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With doing the matrix at same time time I was up there for a week

For some reason my head was not with it at all this time not giddy or excited like I would be usually

Think if focused could of had engine done in couple of days running

Had my mate cut and weld the 12v down pipe for now till I decide which manifold or stainless downpipe to get

I'm using the vr6 gearbox no problems I do have the box from the 4motion but it is heavier I think

The actual engine to get is is straightforward I have had no issues with any clearance anywhere

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So it just sits right on the same mounts as the 12v? See I'm thinking of doing the same now. I have a spare 2.8 12v in my garage as I rebuilt a 2.9 and put it in the car and was gonna turbo it but now I'm thinking of going down the 24v route either 2.8 or 3.2. Would the 4mo box sit on the same mounts as the 12v? And was the wiring fairly easy? Sorry to bombard you with questions, just trying to get as much info as possible to decide which way I'm gonna go. I'm still gonna go down the forced induction route tho

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It's fine I spent months serching/reserch to decide best cost effective way to get more torque

the r32 head got better ports as standard which I want to use next year

I want to turbo mine eventually too after that

Well it is actually easy but I ended up with a fooked ecu so used the 12v obd2 ecu and it works well, have done some part and full throttle runs and checked spark plugs and it's running great

As for the gearbox Im sure you would need to have another mounting on the box welded blanking plate on transfer box

Custom drive shafts and think something with the shifter

I'm using the early aue 24v with the coil pack so easy swap

I've drove the car with the inlet manifold flaps open and closed and noticed minimal difference in torque and mpg

I'm colour blind so had a mate to do the wiring but I still got some loads tidying up to do as week away from home didn't go down too well

Here is the second start up vid the first one reved to 3k as I left of some vac pipes lol

And i can't be assed to take a pic of engine bay

th_E7CF0765-1D25-4B6C-B76C-AC1345F724A9.

Edited by Mk3highline
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No I didn't use much of the mk4 loom as used the mk3 sensors besides the injector, alternator and the aux waterpump plugs

Well it depends how you want to run it as to which engine and ecu you use

If I was you and going turbo straight away I'd get the later 2.8 with vvt on both the inlet and exhaust with the ecu fuse /relay board and wiring loom from same car

I believe there is a lot to gain from the vvt and turbo set up without the need to lower compression ratio

It's to do with the difference between static and dynamic compression ratio

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

Yeah the obd2 throttle body bolts right on to the AUE inlet

The throttle cable need relocatin

I welded a bracket above the exhaust heat shield and used a another heat sheild over the cable

Ragged the crap out of it for nearly 9k miles since November still ok

Edited for ya mate !!

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