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hey peeps long time to speak :) recently my car has been running wayy to noisey (lots of rattling on start untill warmed up) and its idling to high so this morning i took my car to the garge where my brother works and had a bloke there take a look over it, hes meant to be one of the best mechanics in the area and what he dont know isnt worth knowing ive been told :@ . Anyway as soon as i started the car strait away he said its a chain problem, altho he cant be sure if its the guides but he did say the chain is deffinately loose, they are to busy this weekend and next week so i cant get it done for another 10 days but im guessing this wont be cheap to fix will it as they will need to take it to bits to see the extent of any damage right ? %-6

cheers

steve t

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whoah- 7kk - that a bit low for chains..... Are you sure its genuine mileage? Could always be the tappets as when they are worn they usually sound rattly until they eventually charge up- mine were like this and was going to replace them.....

Ive never heard a 'worn' chain so i wouldnt know but my guess is you'd be able to hear it from between the gearbox and that side of the engine.... If the top ends rattly then tappets definitely. A worn chain would sound noisy all the time....

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Hi

Ive been chasing a mis-fire on mine and one of the things ive changed has been the chain tension bolt at the back of he head on the right side in line with the chain.

It didn't stop the misfire but did stop some noise fron the chain.

Olny found this out from my mate whos VW mech, he has change at lot of these, he recons there normally scrap at about 100k and only costs about £35. Word of warning tho these need to be changed by a pro mech as if the chain jumps afterwards this means Values Costly and remember to prime before inserting!!!!.

Only a thought

Winks

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no, you don't need to be a pro to change the tensioner 'bolt'.....just follow these guidelines....remove old one (its the huge bolt on the back of the top cam chain cover, round the back of engine), bolt new one in, then remove fuel pump fuse (18 i think) and crank engine a few times (it will clatter a lot) till the majority of the clanking goes away, then replace fuse and start.

that (and the runner on the head) are the only two timing chain items you can change without removing the 'box. sadly its the 'blade' runner that tends to wear (the tensiober bolts effectively tensions the blade runner), and this can be viewed by taking inlet/cam cover off but cant be renwewed.

does seem very low mileage to have chain probs....but my mates highline did loose a lot of performance right before his chains snapped. this was due to the lower runner (which normally doesnt wear) wearing completely through and the chain firstly jumping a few teeth (causein drop in performance) then snapping on the blts that held the lower runner.

all chains stretch a surprising amount, but i noticed no difference oin performance when i put new (i.e. not stretched) chains on my vr6.

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I had to do my chains at 85k on the clock... full VAG history up until that time.....

I was down at Kilokillers garage yesterday, somet on the intermediate sprocket had gave away causing the bottom end to spin but not the top end... probably bent the best part of 10 valves in the head!

I'm starting to see more horror stories as time goes on though... better safe than sorry :)

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