Biggazvr6 0 Posted November 1, 2011 Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 ive got a rough running motor. ive done lots of searching on here and spent alot of money trying to fix the problem, but to no avail. As said it idles lumpy, and its reving up and down slightly on idle. It all started with a small stutter in any gear under 2k revs, followed somtimes by a small pop. Then when coasting or under part throttle, i can feel it running lumpy and almost as if its missfiring. The problem apeared after i over reved it a little a week or so ago, i say over reved, it was only 6700rpm so nothing major i didnt think. Ive done the plugs, leads, tried a brand new coil pack but it hasnt made any difference. it got slighlty better then yesterday it got worse again like it was when it first happened. so, i decided to run some injector cleaner through it. brimmed the tank and put it in. Still no better. Donemore searching and asked a few people and they keep saying its the maff, so today i bought a new one and guess what.........yep, you guessed it, no different. ive also changed the fuel pump relay as this was getting warm. Is it ment to do this? bought a new one from stealers and this too is getting warm! more wasted money i suspect!!!!! the only other two things that i havent done which have been mentioned in some threads that have come up im ny searches are fuel pump and fuel filter.I think the pump is noisey, does any body else think so and could this be causing my problems? Here is a video.Do OBD2 cars have an idlecontrol valve could this be the problem.Any help much apreciated as im loosing my rag now and dont want to keep throwing money at it willy nilly.forgotr to add, its beem on vag com twice and its clean as a whistle!cheers guys Link to post Share on other sites
Ben Seabrook 4 Posted November 1, 2011 Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 cant hear much in that vid mate, when you vagcommed it did you just flash the car or leave vagcom running while the car was running ? Link to post Share on other sites
Biggazvr6 0 Posted November 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 just flashed it but not with it running. the buzzing noise in the video is the fuel pump is it not? also nest to the coil pack under the bonnet, what it the round thingy about 2" in diameter with a plug onto and a pipe going into the bottom? is this supposed to make a noise because it does this when its running and also when ignition is on Link to post Share on other sites
filtee 0 Posted November 1, 2011 Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 Thats the auxilliary water pump. It runs after the engine is off to aid cooling. Link to post Share on other sites
filtee 0 Posted November 1, 2011 Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 Does the buzzing continue if you unplug the aux water pump? Try it for a second. That could possibly be the noise but would not be the dodgy running. Link to post Share on other sites
Ben Seabrook 4 Posted November 1, 2011 Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 as above its the aux water pump and yes it is meant to run afterwards, might well be worth running vag-com when the car is running although I cant remember if you can do that on the free version or if you need the full one ? however with regards to the problem judging by what you have changed and the symptons I would be tempted to go with a bad earth Link to post Share on other sites
Biggazvr6 0 Posted November 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 Ie the terminal on the battery for arguments sake or are you refering to something else ben? Link to post Share on other sites
Ben Seabrook 4 Posted November 1, 2011 Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 no mate a bad earth somewhere ie frayed wire or one of the earthing points corroded ( one of back of block one on front etc ) Link to post Share on other sites
Biggazvr6 0 Posted November 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 Where are they located on the block? Link to post Share on other sites
Daverse 175 Posted November 2, 2011 Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 anywhere where a bit of metal cabling is bolted to the chassus / block. look under the battery tray too, theres loads under there Link to post Share on other sites
Biggazvr6 0 Posted November 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 Right so as said previously, missing getting worse. On way home tonight, it started missing continuously and running on else 4 or 5 cylinders, no power at all. Then I've got home and now it won't start at all now? Could this be crank or cam shaft sensor issue. Fuel pump is priming as I can see fuel pressure on my gauge, just seems as though it's make no effort to fire. It's getting to the stage of dark secluded lane with a match time I think! Due Link to post Share on other sites
Biggazvr6 0 Posted November 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 Anyone? Link to post Share on other sites
filtee 0 Posted November 2, 2011 Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 My last vr had problem starting and cutting out, ended up being crank sensor. It also started running shit which turned out to be lambda sensor. If you have the option of taking parts back as youve previously stated, why not just carry on until you get it sorted.?! Id be trying those 2 that ive just mentioned next. Link to post Share on other sites
Biggazvr6 0 Posted November 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 i cant keep buying stuff and taking it back! its is taking the piss a bit aswell. I cant just keep buying stuff and then taking it back!!! whats your thoughts as to why it wont start at all now? Link to post Share on other sites
filtee 0 Posted November 2, 2011 Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 Its just cos you said that you could take the maf back. Im sure you mentioned in a previous thread about taking something back also. Anyway, it wont start at all? It could be many things. Id try lambda sensor, they make them run shit and misfire. Link to post Share on other sites
Biggazvr6 0 Posted November 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 yeh ive taken maff back and the coil pack but theres only so many excuses i can make up and im running outof other parts to blame it in than the ones im taking back! It wont start at all now. Was running on 4-5 cycls coming home, then i cut out on a hill and wouldnt start. i managed to bump start it, and limp it home. It cranks now but wont fire. Surely lambda wouldn't make it not start? Link to post Share on other sites
filtee 0 Posted November 2, 2011 Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 It sound like crank sensor AND lambda to me. It happened to my previous on as i said. The crank sensor would cause the non starting and lambda would make it run crap. Link to post Share on other sites
Biggazvr6 0 Posted November 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 ok fair enough. Are all vr crank sensors the same i.e could i rob that one off the vr at altham, or would it be different for obd1/obd2 as that ones obd1, and where would be cheapest place to get one from new or are they dealer only? i know lambda would make it run rough but i didnt think it would cause it to run on 4. ill attempt get both new tomoro if i can and take it from there. Link to post Share on other sites
filtee 0 Posted November 2, 2011 Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 Im not sure if theyre the same, would have thought so. Id go to vw or tps for both. Get genuine though cos i made the mistake of non gen with the crank sensor and the problem still occured, takin a while to start and cutting out. I was pulling my hair out tryin to sort it and some suggested genuine sensor. Got one off a corrado from somewhere and it never did it again. Link to post Share on other sites
Biggazvr6 0 Posted November 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 is there a tps local to us? Link to post Share on other sites
jims13 6 Posted November 3, 2011 Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 Lambda looks likely Link to post Share on other sites
Matt82_16v 0 Posted November 3, 2011 Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 Not got access to Viacom so you can check before you replace? Link to post Share on other sites
filtee 0 Posted November 3, 2011 Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 I think theres a tps in blackburn. Google it. Link to post Share on other sites
Biggazvr6 0 Posted November 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 Vag coms showing clean well it was the other day, haven't checked it since as it's s garage who are checking it and now it's stuck on my drive that's put an end to that. I'm just gunna have to bite the bullet and buy all 3. Crank cam and lambada sensor aren't I! Yet more expense! Lol Link to post Share on other sites
MJ Vr6 79 Posted November 3, 2011 Report Share Posted November 3, 2011 As said it idles lumpy' date=' and its reving up and down slightly on idle. It all started with a small stutter in any gear under 2k revs, followed somtimes by a small pop- Sounds like Temp Sensor Then when coasting or under part throttle, i can feel it running lumpy and almost as if its missfiring. The problem apeared after i over reved it a little a week or so ago, i say over reved, it was only 6700rpm so nothing major i didnt think-VR's can take a beating mate.. 6700rpm on a N/A VR is minor.(Unless it has not been looked after etc). Ive done the plugs, leads, tried a brand new coil pack but it hasnt made any difference. it got slighlty better then yesterday it got worse again like it was when it first happened. Donemore searching and asked a few people and they keep saying its the maff- so today i bought a new one and guess what.........yep, you guessed it, no different.-Need to check MAF before spunkin money dude, there are ways by disconnecting etc, guess you wasnt to know, fairplay. Do OBD2 cars have an idlecontrol valve could this be the problem.-Built in, if that fucks, you need new throttle, but thats not whats causing the problemAny help much apreciated as im loosing my rag now and dont want to keep throwing money at it willy nilly. Link to post Share on other sites
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