gti to vr6 cvonversion

[rsweeney 40]

hi, i have a crashed damaged vr6 with all mechanical parts working, im also getting a mk3 gti and was just wondering what has to be done to convert the gti to vr6?

im guessing:

engine

gearbox

wiring loom

ecu

exhaust mani

gear shift parts

but what else do i need ?

[legvw 0]

Possibly the front subframe as the engine mount is different, like on mk2's. You'll need the clocks too.

[Daverse 175]

subframe, mounts, wishbones, hubs, suspension struts, gear cables, I think thats about it,

[rsweeney 40]

got all of those parts including clocks but bar the gearbox mount.

when you say sub frame do you mean the cross memeber that holds the front engine mount ?

also as far as changing the fuse boxes etc is it a straight swap ?

[Daverse 175]

All electronics across vw platform are plug and play, i.e. you wont have to change fuseboard, just take out old engine loom connections, and plug in new ones, theres a few pictures on the web to help.

yep I think the front mount differs, but only very slightly, I have compared both and there may be only about 2-5mm in it, but it was so much easier to line up Im not too sure if main front subframe (One that holds the steering rack) differs, but Im using my old one and managed to do it?

hope that helps

[rsweeney 40]

great that saves alot of hassle , i have a front cross member with front engine mount and if it comes to it a main subframe. cant wait for it to be a vr6 , but honestly - vr6 or gti ?

[legvw 0]

It's the rear engine mounting that differs, I think, so you'll need the main subframe.

Good luck with the build, it's got to be easier than what you had planned!

[rsweeney 40]

ah ok then how hards the main subframe to change ? and yeah , well i hope so !

[Vw_owner 1]

main sub frame is just a few bolts,only problem you may encounter is seized bolts, you will also have to change the pedal box over as that gti has a cable clutch and the vr has hydro clutch,

[Vw_owner 1]

' date=' but honestly - vr6 or gti ?

[/quote']

vr6 man! wins allday everyday!! , richard hammond once said "there were other versions available but this is the one to go for {vr6} because that vr6 engine is one of best engines vw has ever made!" lol that was a few years ago

[Daverse 175]

main sub frame is just a few bolts' date='only problem you may encounter is seized bolts, you will also have to change the pedal box over as that gti has a cable clutch and the vr has hydro clutch,

[/quote']

Not the whole pedal box mate, you just need to take the cable off the clutch pedal pin, then blt in the culinder for the clutch and put that onto the clutch pedal, bit of a pain, but you dont need to take the whole pedal box out.

[rsweeney 40]

right im with you. does the dash have to come out before fitting the cylinder etc and how easy is it to fit the hydro clutch system ? any chance you could write up a few steps for changing it

[Vw_owner 1]

dont think your have to remove the dash at all {i maybe wrong} but if you look in the engine bay of the vr6 you will see where the clutch slave cylinder is{directly behind the clutch pedal in engine bay},its also linked to the brake master cylinder/ fluid resivour by a pipe so your probably have to change that over aswell unless the one in the gti has a connection thats blanked off for it?.{to feed fluid to the clutch slave cylinder} realy cant imagine it to be that hard as both cars will be infront of you so you have everything you need, also you can see exaclty what needs to be swaped over and work out how to go about fitting it,

[Daverse 175]

Right I just ran to the garage and took a few snaps for you, these arent in any particular im afraid though, I will try to explain as best I can

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if you have a dash, you wont have the same view as I have and it will be cramped, but you will see what I mean when you do it. on the gti, where the slave cylinder is (see last pic) it is blanked off, simply unbolt it and pull it off out of the engine bay. the cable is just hooked in the clutch pedal, when you take the cable off the gearbox (dont ask me how to remove this, I just grinded it off) the cable will go slack, and you can withdraw it from the pedal box. get the slave cylinder, bolt it in, (can be a pain for access) and then push the ball at the end of the cylinder into the clutch pedal. It is worth getting a plastic clip from VW (about 40p), as these often break and thats pretty much it, you will need the hydraulic lines that go from the cylinder to the the gearbox, and a VR6 brake cylinder as this has a fabric tube that connects the resevoir to the clutch cylinder. DO NOT press the clutch pedal in without having filled the lines with fluid, as this will damage the hydralic cylinders and system.

I cant remember how cramped it was taking the clutch stuff out of the pedal box when I did it, but if your struggling, undo the bolt in the engine bay (see pic 4) and this will undo a bar in the pedal box that goes between the brake and accelerator pedal, simply lift the bar and pull it off, then do it in reverse order when fitting.

Hope this helps, its hard to explain in writing, you will see when you get to it.

Cheers, Dave

[rsweeney 40]

thanks that is really helpful and will help loads when im fitting it, cheers for getting all those pics ! vwowner - yeah just looked and seems to be a simple fit through the fire wall. and what spec are thoses wheels you had as im looking for the front set on german ebay

[Vw_owner 1]

ah, they called borbet A 's you idealy want a pair of 5x100 16"x7.5" with an ET of 30, i couldnt find any for love nor money! but what i found was exactly the above dimensions with a pcd of 5x108 and had a bigger centre bore so i had to use spigot rings, then i had A-TEC engineering re drill the pcd to 5x100 {hes over here in low lands road} for £80.00 btw you will need the offset to be 30 because you also need to run spacers on the front for the wheel to clear the caliper. it sounds worse then it is but its worth it, they basicaly stopped makeing them in 5x100 a few years back so there quite rare now.

[Vw_owner 1]

damn this rim is almost perfect!!! only thing is its 4x98 and im prety sure if you tryed re drilling it to 5x100 one of the bolts will foul or you might be able to use one of them bolt holes as its only a few mm out? but best try and find a 5x100 or 5x108 as i know that can be re drilled! http://www.ebay.de/itm/1-Alufelge-Borbet-A-A75630-7-5x16-H2-ET30-KBA41763-/110734093470?pt=Auto_Felgen&hash=item19c8442c9e

[Daverse 175]

wont work, you would have to drill and weld over new holes, as they wont mount upto 5 studs

[Vw_owner 1]

how do you mean? as in you cant re drill the 4 stud wheel to 5stud?