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I've been researching this all morning. So more than likely you will encounter the same problem unless you get a genuine alternator from vw.

Other option is to swap pulley from your old alternator or get a new one and fit that to your aftermarket alternator.

I'll ave an answer for you at some point this weekend to see if this works.

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That fits 92- 94 according to the website. The one i'm looking at is based on a 1997 VR6, and is cheaper.

Just compared the specs and they are different. The amp rating is lower on the one I have seen, and there are differences in the pulley dia & overhang

The one you have seen:

Qty Of Fit 1 Engine Code AAA

Model Code (1H1) Data Source LUCAS

Volts/amps 12V/120A Pulley Info Vees/dia/overhang 7/52/52

Termination B+(M8)D,+W Fixing Holes 4

Fixing Holes Size 8.2/M8 & 8.2/M8 Angle 90

Bhp 174

The one I have seen:

Qty Of Fit 1 Engine Code AAA

Model Code (1H1) Data Source LUCAS

Volts/amps 12V/70A Pulley Info Vees/dia/overhang 7/61/54

Termination B+(M8)D,+W Fixing Holes 4

Fixing Holes Size 8.2/M8 & 8.2/M8 Angle 90

Bhp 174

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Hi,

Has your car got a/c? If so needs the 120amp and if its a non a/c model the 90amp will do. Cant remember the part number but think its Bosch 025/g.

I had loads of trouble with mine and it wasn't the alternator but the wire. When static the battery will read 11 volts ish but when running should be upto 14.5 volts, meaning its charging. Check this out before spending all your money.

Cheers

Mark

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Hi' date='

Has your car got a/c? If so needs the 120amp and if its a non a/c model the 90amp will do. Cant remember the part number but think its Bosch 025/g.

I had loads of trouble with mine and it wasn't the alternator but the wire. When static the battery will read 11 volts ish but when running should be upto 14.5 volts, meaning its charging. Check this out before spending all your money.

Cheers

Mark

[/quote']

which wire are you talkin about Mark, i had mine on a volt meter last night and on tic over it was just over 11 volts might be worth me checking said wire before i spend money i cant afford :)

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Mine is a non-air con model. Already done a voltage check before taking the old alternator off. It was 12v with the engine off and then after i started the engine, it dropped to 11.5volts.

Had the battery tested and it read good battery but recharge which means alternator failed.

Heres a pic of my old alternator. Warning to all you vr6 owners. Never let a rocker gasket oil leak get too bad.

16864_424012505033_529875033_106107.jpg

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Hi,

On mine the connector that clips onto the alternator had a faulty connection. I got an alternator still the same. On checking again it was the wire which attaches to the alternator (black one) and the connector cost me 2 quid!!!

Based on your meter reading of 11 volts at tick over that sounds a little low to me. What was the static reading before starting and tick over? If its charging should be increasing when running not staying the same.

Mine uses the 120 amp Bosch alternator and definetly read 11.5 volts off the battery then when running showed 13.5 volts (Good charging is upto 14.5 volts on a 120 amp).

Only know all this as a mate is an auto electrian and recons alternators so told me what steps to go through with the multi meter. He updated my regulator etc but cannot remeber why!!

Hope this helps

Mark

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Mine is a non-air con model. Already done a voltage check before taking the old alternator off. It was 12v with the engine off and then after i started the engine' date=' it dropped to 11.5volts.

Had the battery tested and it read good battery but recharge which means alternator failed.

Heres a pic of my old alternator. Warning to all you vr6 owners. Never let a rocker gasket oil leak get too bad.

[img']http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e246/Uptownboy23/16864_424012505033_529875033_106107.jpg

thats what my alternator looks like,

my rocker gasket has been leaking for a while now but for some reason it recently stopped

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done my rocker gasket last night and as i've never worked on a vr before it took me bout hour and a half but turned out to be easy.

Removing old alternator took about 45mins. Easy to do with the inlet manifold still off the engine.

I'm doing mine for the 1st time tomorrow, i'm new to VR engines aswell.

Why does the alternator take so long to take off.

do you have any tips or things i should be aware of before i start ?

Cheers

John

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If i could stop by I'd give you a hand.

Most guides say you must lift up the engine to remove the alternator but i managed to wiggle it free towards where the airbox sits. As I said having the inlet manifold off, helps you see things more clearly.

Have you read any guides?

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i've been looking for guides online but no joy' date=' and i even went shopping for a vr6 haynes book but they dont list one why is this?

[/quote']

haynes dont do a guide it's the same with most v6 engines they dont make one for the vectra v6 engine as they reckon its to complicated for a average person to work on. There is another workshop manual you can get that covers the vr6 engine

It is

Lindsay Porters colour manuals

volkswagen golf polo vento jetta corrado scirocco

isbn number 1-899238-40-9

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Yes, alternator is a bit of a bast**d to remove. They say jack it up to remove one of the bolts so I have never tried without doing this. Imagine it would be a lot simple without manifold. Deffo think from your description that the alternator is bin fodder unless you recon it!!

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can i just say a quick thank you to whoever sent me a alternator removal guide, my manifold will be out but if i do struggle i'l try the jacking up the engine as well just to be on the safe side.

must admit i'm not looking forward to it though lol

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