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Some turbo info ? anyone running 280ish bhp?


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Hi

Im after around 280-300 mark. Is this possible without the headgasket spacer?

I need to do this on the ultra low budget so im going to be using a second hand turbo off of ebay. So any idea what kind of thing i should be looking for. Im guessing T3 series?

If anyone is around the 280 mark with a turbo if you could let me know your turbo and psi that would be great as what to see what flow of air i need.

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Thanks for the responses ' date=' what supercharger model are you running ben? Want to try and work out the flow rate i need.

Cheers

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am running a stage 1 Z-Engineering charger mate - it's a self contained unit so no seperate oil cooler or anything literally bolt on remap and away :)

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8 psi turbo will get you 300-310hp with a good map on stock compression. T3/T04e a good budget choice' date=' with 0.82 turbine housing

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def an 0.82 housing mate, i have a .61 and it spools up silly quick in all gears and spins all gears too, so an .82 will give a more graduall take off with more time for the tyres to grip the road and allow you to use more power. a much better choice for 1/4 mile`s. not like mine, where i have to feather the pedal the whole lenght of the quarter

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Yeah, as mentioned in the rods and pistons thread, I've used the GT3071, 3076 and a currently I'm on a 35R. All have / had 0.82 housings and the 3071 was pretty much unusable at 12psi, let alone anything more. My 3076 was a nice unit, but only lasted 500 miles due to a manufacturing fault, then I thought feck it, let's go 35R and I've really enjoyed that turbo so far.

When it hits, it hits harder than the GT30Rs but the beauty is like you say, a little slower onset of boost to give the tyres a fighting chance....and the torque is higher up the revs, so doesn't smash 3rd gear to peices either, and because the 35R flows like a T04S, it makes more power for the same boost :-)

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good point Kev about 3rd gear on turbo vr`s.

you WILL !! break 3rd gear with a 350+ hp vr6. no questions at all. i broke 2 in the first month of owning it. if you go f/i over 350bhp you WILL need to strenghthen the gears especially 3rd or get the whole box toughened up. and an lsd will help out bigtime too. but the main point is 3rd gear on a turbo vr will break if big power goes through it. :(

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Thanks a lot for all of the information :) ! , im aiming for around 300 bhp , i wont be using the exhaust side. Just interested in working out the flow rates.

Any idea on what breaks with the gearbox could be good to investigate a few ways to improve the strength of the box.

Sounds like what we really need is a traction control device that controls the external wastegate.

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not sure if 3rd is weak as a rule or not, but its prob to do with high boost being there by the time your into 3rd and the poor old standard cogs just cant cope with the extra power.

mine were strenghened and shot peened and i have had no probs yet,and i drive very hard most of the time as the car only comes out for mad ones and 1/4 miles, so well worth looking into. allthough if you run around 270-280hp then i would see how it goes as it may be strong enough for that power.

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I think its also to do with exhaust turbine housing size. i don't speak from experience but the larger housing that come on later 1.06 ect tend to be a bit more kind on 3rd gear.

Also a bit of mechanical sympathy doesn't go a miss lol, not like i have any myself. 02m mk4 boxs tend to fix the problem for good... but going way out of your budget

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Agreed on the mechanical sympathy.

I've been really lucky with my gearbox, over 40K around the 400hp mark and no breakages yet. Some of that I put down to turbo sizing - later spool. Some it I put down to gearing - I have the lower final drive from the G60 in my gearbox, so the car has more momentum behind it by the time the boost comes in, plus the gears are easier to turn, so less stress on the gear and the rest, I put down to not hammering the gas if I know spin - regrip will occur. The gears break when traction is regained very abruptly and in some respects, having cheap tyres can spare you clutches and gears because they spin the excess power away harmlessly.... but if you're into 1/4 miles, then traction is more important.

The standard 02A does very well and if you keep the boost sensible and don't nail it over bumps, you'll be OK. The 02M's gears are massive and the casing doesn't flex as much but they still break :-(

The only other option is a gear set (SQS, G-Force, Gemini, Quaife etc) or shot peening and strengtheing etc, although I don't know what's involved with the latter.

I've heard you can cryo treat gears to strengthen them? But wouldn't that make them shatter more easily?

As Golfrabbit says, you have to consider the car's useage aswell. If it's a daily needed for commuting, then there's no way I'd be pushing my luck with the boost and getting stuck on the way to work with a smashed gearbox!!

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I think its also to do with exhaust turbine housing size. i don't speak from experience but the larger housing that come on later 1.06 ect tend to be a bit more kind on 3rd gear.

Also a bit of mechanical sympathy doesn't go a miss lol' date=' not like i have any myself. 02m mk4 boxs tend to fix the problem for good... but going way out of your budget

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i had a 1.06 housing for a while. when doing 1/4 i only got boost near the finish line,very very graduall then whoosh. not good for sprints but it did get me over 170 top end. bigger housings will be kinder on the transmission but takes ages to spool up. the .82 is the middle size that allows your tyres a chance to bed in to the road before launching you forward. but as allways the choice is yours. phone c2 uk and ask them to explain the bits you dont understand, also when you have built the car,send your ecu to c2 and tell them your mods and hey presto ,they send it back in tune with all the new upgraded parts, very easy indeed to sort that bit. (let someone else do it :) )

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AS I think that chaps have noted its all about the re-grip factor. Thats what kills the box. Yes you can harden etc and yes it does make it more brittle. You only harden the teeth in these processes not the entire cog so therefore you make the rest of the cog brittle.

It is all about how you deliver the boost and how you drive it. Dont forget you can map for a number of different maps/settings dependant up on the controller you use so this can be made to limit the power exposure.

LSD is essention I feel once above 300 BHP plus this does help distribute internal forces a little.

Superchargers pop up on here fairly often and tend to be either the Z type of the VF type. all are kit based so you need to bolt on add the oil coolers and map. Job done. there is a thread on here for these option in the premium section I think, also for budget turbo builds.

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Good information on the boxes. I want to be able to abuse the car and box otherwise it would always be in the back of my mind.

Im aiming to have 8psi boost cut in from 2000 rpm.

Still doing a few calculations so not sure if its possible just yet.

Thanks again for all of the responses :)

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So you want 8psi as a peak and for it all to be there from 2000rpm, and I guess hold it to 7000rpm aswell?

A few small turbos can acheive the 2K bit, but holding it to 7K will be the problem area.

Personally I would aim to bring the boost in at 3500rpm and have a 3500rpm window. That's a lot easier to achieve.

It's the classic turbo sizing compromise :-)

No supercharger other than a positive displacement will make 8psi by 2000rpm.

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This is an interesting read alex! Good luck mate :) I must admid, my box I had in the mk2 was solid (thanks to pete and stealth building it well) but it was an o2a with g60 Final drive and quaife LSD. And that'd took almost 500 horses, over 400lbs and constant 1/4s :)

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