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Adding a Rear Anti-roll Bar - any good?


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I'm being told by a number of VW Golf tuning shops, and looking at threads on here, that to improve specifically VR6 handling adding a rear ARB really makes a BIG difference. Most say the standard front ARB is not the issue and does the job OK. VR6s have a 'sort of'' rear ARB inside the rear beam but I'm told this needs augmenting as it is pretty ineffective. Adding an additional 'proper' one at the back (you don't replace the 'sort of' original, you add a new one) apparently makes a BIG difference to the handling and reduces understeer significantly. Looks like quite a cheap mod, maybe with a Whiteline. Anyone tried this and got a point of view (POV for posters) as to how it improved handling? IMO this makes sense but I'm up for advice as I may be wrong.

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this seems to make sence to me with the heavy front end.

Are you saying doing the rears on there own is better than uprating both, including the front one? Hurd somthink somwhere about it making the drive "choppy" but i don't realy understand what it means, Because its choppy its slower round corners or just abit weird to drive/ get used to? whats a "whiteline"? Never hurd of it before

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Hi Phat, they are ARBs produced in OZ. I've done a fair bit of research on this. Yes there is a 'sort of' rear ARB as standard, its inside the rear beam and you can see it looking back from the front with the car on a ramp. Doesn't do a lot and you just fit an extra one - it does not fit in the same place. In order to get the car to corner flatter the you need to increase the roll resistance at the back (rather than the front, although that will help, but not as much). The lack of 'flat' is quite obvious in slow corners or roundabouts, when the rear corner on the outside really sits down. Improved rear ARB stiffness really improves turn in and reduces understeer significantly....it 'bites' and takes the vagueness out. Increasing the rear roll resistance does not reduce comfort but reduces those heart in the mouth moments going into corners as it will turn in with much more immediacey and go where you point it. The Whiteline rear ARBs have 3 upsides:

they are only 22mm thick (see later)

you can get an adjustable one and the range of stiffness on the adjustable is about 30%, so you can tuine it to your liking.

They are well priced for one...about £130

There is currently a downside....they are on at least a 3 month leadtime from OZ!!!

The most commonly fitted ARBs are kits (as referenced on these forums) from H&R or Eibach. But these kits force you to buy front AND rear together and they cost. There are other rear only ARBs that you can buy - Weitec or Neubach.......but they are both 25mm thick. This is way too much roll resistance to fit 'back only' and therefore you HAVE to upgrade the front ARB to compensate which in itself is not really necessary as it is improving the back end that provides by far the most gain. Fitting 25mm rears only will likely dial out TOO MUCH of the understeer and introduce unpredictable oversteer, especially in the wet.

Hey Ho, so there you go!

I expect that some of the communty out there will come up with the crie de couer 'fit coilies'....er no, not necessarily.

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Craggsy, that's cool. I think that the H&R rear ARBs are available in 25mm and 28mm, is that rigjt? If you can buy them individually, that is great....except that if they are 25mm or 28mm you should not fit them without uprated fronts.?? I'm of the well informed opinion that putting on a 25mm rear (and definetiy a 28mm) without an upgraded front is madness.....too much rear stiffness, silly oversteer, major imbalance.

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I know people who run 28 rear and 25 front on mk2 VR6 they say its great

Is 25mm up front bigger than standard? So its eather 20 mm back on its own, Or if you want to fit both at the same time 25 front 28 back?

Guessing the balence is the same just the action on the 25/28 is harder and pushes the wheels down more

So im my mind its best to fit the both uprated ones unless below is true?

Also hurd somwhere that anit roll bar on the back and no roll bar at all at the front helped keep traction because the one wheel thats hanging is able to be kept in contact with the floor (where as the anit roll bar would normaly be holding it back away from the floor adding downward force on the other side) Think that makes sence lol

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interested to know more on this guys because i find mine handles totally sh1t. period. FK collies, camber/tracking set up, and still it feels like it kinda falls into corners, almost like its gone really soft and squishy lately. Steering takes some pulling then all of a sudden, bang! it becomes a case of point and hope. i need to post in the wheels and tyres section too really beacuse im under the theory my staggered 8.5j rear and 7.5j front 17's, on 205 tyres really isnt helping matters.

sorry about that i got into a typing rhythm there, but if anyone can shed any light as to ARB choice, new tyre/wheel sizes (retaining nice looks), ill be happy little man

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