For the love of god, please help with AVCR!!!!!

[Liquid Dub 0]

Hi guys, new to this forum.. I have searched all over the internet for answers and landed here.. so here goes..

I am in need of some answers installing a AVCR on my 96 GLX... I have posted to other sites with no luck at all... I pray that someone here can help me with the install!!

The basic specs on my car :

96 Jetta GLX OBDII

Kinetic stage 3 w/ C2 software running 42#, tial 38mm WG, water/meth injection system, running 18 psi for the moment.

I thought I had everything figured out through the bently... but all the readings are screwy. my RPM's are way off an jump all over the place, the TPS reads either 0% or 100% with the slightest touch of the gas.. and the speed reading is about 30~ 40 kph higher than actual...

My Rpm is being pulled off pin #22 Grn/Black.. the TPS off pin#10 white( this was the only one that changed voltage on throttle that I could find).. key on power.. an the 2 grounds near the ECU.... VSS is hooked to pin #....err... cant emember off hand now..

For the love of god.. you guys seem like the last chance for me to figure this out, no one else has any answers!! PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!

[FishWick 21]

That's why my AVCR is still in the shed unused :-)

Is there a setting in the AVCR to calibrate the rpm? Seems like you may have to tell it how many tacho pulses it needs to read as it's a 6 pot engine and sends 3 tacho pulses maybe?

I took one look at the AVCR "Chinglish" manual and stuffed it back in the box, so that's a wild guess.

TPS - On the OBD2 there are more than 1 5V signal lines if I remember right. And the actual throttle pot works in reverse polarity compared to an OBD1 throttle. From memory, I think the black/grey wire on the OBD2 throttle loom is the TPS signal.

Again, does that need "telling" in the AVCR what the throttle stop position is? I.e. Press OK when closed, then again when fully open?

I must get round to installing my AVCR then I can help more.....

[rigs 0]

As said there is a setting for number of cylinders in the AVCR config that'll sort that side of things out. There are also settings for the type and direction of the throttle position wire.

Read the manual, I found it perfectly useable.

[Bobtrude 0]

Hi, have u found out of your problems?

I have installed this on my obd1 vrt and it works very good.

If u mess around with the bentley manual I guess you could find out of it by using my obd1 install. . . . . .

All wires are connected with wiretaps at the ECU.

Here goes:

Red wire- connect to power: black/green wire nr38

Purple wire-connect to engine RPM: Blue/ black nr 60

Gray wire -TPS: Green White nr40

White wire- connect to vehicle speed signal: Blue white nr65

Black wire and green wire - ground brown: nr1.

then i sat the cylinder to 2

spd to 4

and throtle to arrow pointing uppwards

In the gear judge i have:

1st: 070

2nd: 045

3rd: 030

4th: 025

5th: 022

I have sat the boost to 0.60 and duty to 33%

Start Duty i have sat 1st: 0%

2nd:+5%

3rd: 0%

4th: -3%

5th: -10%

And with these settings I get ca 0,55 to 0,60 bars.

[Bobtrude 0]

I forgot to mention that my kmh is also screwy . . . . . but I don`t mind. . . . . I have the original one so who cares?

[Liquid Dub 0]

I did figure it out yes. though I think the obd2 wires are a bit different. RPM is Black/purple, and the TPS ( blue/white) has reverse voltage so the setting in the avcr is arrow down.. Works perfectly...

Only problem I seem to have now is wont control the boost. even at the lowest settings I'll overboost to 25 PSI. I've run several vaccum configurations to try different ideas but noting works. I'm wondering if the controler is bad.. who knows!

[Bobtrude 0]

Have u routed the vacumlines right, u have to screw another niple on on the solenoid. It doesnt connect like a normal T-boost valve.

[Liquid Dub 0]

well, I have a tial 38mm, I was using a kinetic manual controller, hooked to the top tof the WG, and a manifold vac. source.. when I installed the avcr, I conected the top of the WG to the COM, then installed a second nipple on the side of my WG to connect to the NC port. This was also T'ed into a vac source just like the instructions say. I also tried no "T" w/o vac to NC port. I havnt tried to the NO port.. the instructions say not to use this one for external WG though.. so, I am still at a loss. It's funny because the wiring was such a pain to figure out, I thought for sure the vac lines would be so easy! haha!! anyone have any pictures of their hose routing for the AVCR by chance?

And by the way.. thanks for your help guys.. you've given more info than any other forum believe it or not..

[Bobtrude 0]

Ok, so the pressure sensor is connected to the manifold aswell?

When u put your key in the ignition and turn half way you should HEAR the solenoid going: "Klikk". If not. . . .it may not be responding. . . . . .

[Liquid Dub 0]

yes, pressure sensor is connected to manifold.. and I got the "Klikk"!!! thats what I dont get..???

[Liquid Dub 0]

are you useing the "NC" port to the side or bottom of your WG with a "T" to a vaccum source?

[Bobtrude 0]

Ok, so have u sett the boost to 15 psi! and the duty?

[Liquid Dub 0]

well, actually.. I've gone all the way down to .45 bar on the boost, and 20% duty.. still I get 25+ psi!! With my manual I just run a straight 18psi.. but traction is an issue!!

[Bobtrude 0]

Im using the same setup as u are, with all the vacum lines. . . . . cant understand this. . . . Do u hear the solenoid when driving? lets say u drive in 60 mph and open throtle . . . . do u hear it go "brrrrrrr"?

[Liquid Dub 0]

to be honest, with the 3" exhaust.. it's hard to hear the solenoid when I open the throttle!!

[Bobtrude 0]

You showoff;). he he he. Well hire a midget to sitt in the enginecompartment and listen:). Im sorry, I dont know whats wrong. Try lowering the boost ass much ass possible and see what happens. .. . . .

[Bobtrude 0]

Is 25psi fast?

[Liquid Dub 0]

hehehe..a midget.. thats funny! 25 psi scares me to death to be honest.. and even with the water/methanol I dont want to run that kind of boost pressure!! I think my engine will blow!! I can do 18 no problem.. 22psi on occasion at the track or something.. but I think even that pushing it!

[Bobtrude 0]

Yes i thing your engine is strugeling with that much boost. . . . .

Sounds like your AVCR is broken, you should ship it to whoever you bought it from and ask for your refund. . . .

[Bobtrude 0]

any luck yet?

[Liquid Dub 0]

no, I removed the AVCR..put my manual back on for now.. I am wondering though... I didn't use the ground or the power off the ECU.. I ussed a seperate switched power and ground.. do you think that could cause the AVCR to not respond properly?

[Phat VR6 3]

hello.. Can I ask what "duty" is please?

"407 BHP" off hear had the same proplem with his AVCR which made it run at 25 psi (caused his engine to chuck a rod and write his block off lol) He had wired it up himself wrong or somthink..

Out of intrest what compression ratio you running and are you using standard rods?

[FishWick 21]

It's bascially a PID loop. Have a look on Wiki to read how it works.

"Duty" is the amount of boost you want, and "Gain" is the how aggressively it gets there.

Starting with zero gain, set the duty to get the boost you want, say 20% to get 10psi for example, then you adjust the gain to the point where it starts to over shoot 10psi, then pull it back a few points. Done.

It takes a while to setup on the road, but be very careful with the numbers or you can destroy the engine. Start off with no gain and small duty and work up from there.

If you just want to simply set and maintain a target boost pressure, then I recommend the Gizzmo IBC. It works great and is silent and VERY easy to install. It also records maximum sustained boost (more than 5 seconds) , which is useful.

If you want boost against rpm, gears, scramble boost (temporary over boost) etc etc, then the AVCR is one of the best men for the job. But it's more involved to install and the solenoid is very noisy if it's bolted to bodywork.

Personally I like manual boost controllers, except some of them can cause the boost tail off at the top end. IBCs used the PID feedback to maintain boost pressure.

Horses for courses really