Corrado VR6 head gasket replacement

[SCVR6 0]

Hi

I have recently bought a 95 M plate corrado VR6 with a VF engeneering stage 2 suprcharger fitted.A 2.8 VR6 golf engine was fitted 10000 miles ago at the same time as the suprcharger.Since then the head gasket needs replacing(I beleve from coolent loss and overheating acording to the last owner) The work is being carried out by a local VW specialist but I would like some advice about what else I should consider doing wile the heads off.

This is the first VR6 I have owned so I only have a limited knowlege from what I've read on this and other forums so any advice would be greatly apriciated

Thanks

[VR6Pete 1,455]

probably the chains if they ain't been done already, and a clutch if it needs it.

[Phat VR6 3]

Head spacer to lower compression, metal head gasket, ARP head bolts if you can.

You can carry on spending money but there whats needed realy! Would defo recomend the spacer and gasket

How many miles has it done, Could be worth doing the timing chains while your there if there worn

Sounds nice tho mate, Pitures? Welcome

[SCVR6 0]

Thanks for the replys

I've been reading about head spacers.There seems to be quite a split over there reliability.I am currently running about 8psi but would like to increase that if possible.What spacers and metal gaket do you recommend?The head was rebuilt when the engine was installed in the car so I'm hopeing non of the valves have been burnt.

I haven't taken any pic's at the moment but when I do I will upload a few.

[Lizard Racing 0]

There is no reason to reduce compression with only 8psi. You will loose effieciency and you will only need to run a spacer if you are going to run 10-12psi or greater which with a Vortech will give very little gain. A decent standard headgasket and ARP bolts are all you need. Fitted correctly you will never have any issues.

[xyber 1]

fit and oil cooler though and a low temp coolant thermostat or it'll overheat again and give you problems and expense down the line

Give the whole lot a look over aswell, as if the last owner skimped on something as basic and relatively cheap as sorting the extra cooling out for a charged engine, he may have skimped/bodged elsewhere aswell, but as it'll all have to come off anyway that easy on re-assembly

Then once its all sorted with add cooling capability ontop it'll be hassle free for years to come if look after

Have fun

[Lizard Racing 0]

I initially had a 16 row oil cooler set up and removed it after 2 weeks because it oil wasn't getting warm enough. I dont run a cooler thermostat and now only use the standard oil cooler. I drive the car very hard and I never see oil temps above 96. So my advise would be to hold fire on the oil cooler and thermostat. Sort the headgasket first and then see how it runs. Just my 2 pence worth.

[Phat VR6 3]

A decent standard headgasket and ARP bolts are all you need. Fitted correctly you will never have any issues.

I thought the reason it had blown in the first place was because the headgasket couldn't take the boost, Only on for 10,000? Unless it was because it was poorly fitted in the first place

[xyber 1]

I initially had a 16 row oil cooler set up and removed it after 2 weeks because it oil wasn't getting warm enough. I dont run a cooler thermostat and now only use the standard oil cooler. I drive the car very hard and I never see oil temps above 96. So my advise would be to hold fire on the oil cooler and thermostat. Sort the headgasket first and then see how it runs. Just my 2 pence worth.

Was that on the Rotrex or Vortech, with my V9 the temp was hit 100 all the time very easily on the run in period, so got the oil cooler. It would be interesting if the Rotrex let the engine run cooler aswel, I already wish I saved a bit longer for one instead of a V9 :@

[Lizard Racing 0]

The reason the gasket failed is due to using standard head bolts most likely. ARP head studs are the way to go to avoid it failing again.

I had the oil cooler on with my V9 Vortech. When I started using the Rotrex the temperature stayed normal so there was no need to fit an oil cooler. What I did do though was remove quite a bit of the bumper to fit the front mount that I ran with the 12psi pulley. Having said that I now run a 30"x18" Pace pre rad for my charge cooler. A Rotrex charged engine definately runs cooler than a Vortech charged car though. Considering that when the car is running properly it runs 3 times the boost it used to is amazing but also surprising.

[xyber 1]

Damn it! shouldve got a rotrex! Oh well im gonna start saving for an R32 soon which I want to F/I so Ill have to look into one for that if a decent turbo set up is insanly expensive, which I think it will be

[Lizard Racing 0]

Ive been thinking of doing the same as my shell is far from mint, I was also very close to swapping out my 12v for an R32 lump. Most of my Rotrex setup can be bolted straight to the 3.2 and considering the price of 3.2 engines at the moment I was bloody close!

[xyber 1]

Yeah cheap as chip really arent they, I saw a 15,000 miler on ebay go for £1200 just before xmas

[Lizard Racing 0]

Yeah, was going to sell my 12v lump to finance the swap, but after speaking to Andy at Storm I am going to stick with it until it blows, which I cant ever see happening!