Logan_M
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Everything posted by Logan_M
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Thanks guys, sounds like that'll work for me. The guy that's doing my tuning said that some people have idle issues with bigger injectors like 630cc, so that's why he said 440cc might be better for my application. This is a street car, but a very rarely driven one, not a daily by any means. I think 630cc would work best and leave room for future upgrades without having to change parts. Now I need to figure out what to do for an intake manifold. So much debate over short runners and whether or not they are good. Sounds like the general consensus is that they help with pi
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Any advice on injector sizing? Stuck between 440cc and 630cc now. From what I understand the 440s will idle better and "behave" a bit better at my HP goal (400-450ish whp), but the 630 leave room to grow. Also, why not 5-something? Seems people either for 440cc or 630cc, is there a reason? What are you guys running and why?
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Yeah, it's a Stage 3 port and polished head with 42mm/36mm valves. Wiseco forged 9:1 pistons, Eurospec forged rods, ARP hardware throughout. Trans has the wavetrac, spec clutch, and arp hardware. Going to convert to OBD2 for tuning. Probably do water/meth injection for safety as well. It's only like $500, seems like good insurance.
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Well I've already got a forged everything lowered compression engine build in progress, as well as a transmission with spec stage 3 clutch and wavetrac diff. I'd rather just do this once and be done. It'll be over built and that's fine. It hopefully won't blow up easy that way lol.
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After a quick email exchange with ATP I've gotten my "kit" up to this so far: I kinda guessed on the wastegate spring. They told me to choose one with the lowest PSI I'd ever want, and it can run at up to 2x that amount. So that .8 bar spring would be 11.76 PSI - 23.52 PSI. Sound about right? I'm not sure what other fittings or gaskets I need. They didn't specify in the email they sent. Here's my guesses/ideas at other parts I'll need:
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Thank you all for the help and understanding. This is a huge project for me and I'm spending a LOT of money. I've owned this car since 2002 and this engine project has been on hold while I saved money to do this, as well as got the guts to really dive in and spend this kind of money on an old car. I really appreciate the guidance, I don't want to but the wrong thing and have to do this all over again.
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This is the only option that resembles what you said. Is this correct? There are so many different options that it's confusing as hell. Most places don't seem to list that many options. But I have heard that ATP is one of the most reliable here in the U.S.
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So I'm looking at ATP and found this: http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-006&Category_Code=GRT But there seems to be a TON of options. I don't even know where to start with all this... Plus a list of items down below, I'd assume I need the oil return fitting, oil return gaskets, plus a ton of fittings and such. Any help with this?
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So does THIS look like the right Turbo for my application? Seems like the best price I can find for it, and says it's genuine. I'm assuming I want this T4 as opposed to the T3 version right?
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So it's sounding like a GT3582R .82 would be the better turbo, and the ATP type manifold would work as well. I'm going to go with a water/meth injection setup as well. It's about $500, but that's money well spent for insurance on a very costly engine build in my opinion. Anyone disagree? Not sure what size injectors I'd go with. And I'd like to use a short runner for simplicity, but have read many not-so-good posts on various forums about their inefficiency, would staying with the stock intake be better overall?
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The trans is unfortunately still the O2A. It's being built with ARP bolts, cryo-treated gears, and a Wavetrac diff, so that should help. Unfortunately the O2M just wasn't an option at this point in time. Sounds like the .82 is the way to go with these. It's going to be a street car, but just a toy. Not a daily driven car at all. It probably won't see 1000 miles in a year honestly.
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Well it's been fairly trouble free for many years. I got it in 2002. But the head gasket went, I parked it and tore it apart, and it had to be put on hold for quite awhile. Been in storage for a few years and now the big turbo motor is happening.
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That definitely looks like fun! I want to make sure it's streetable, don't need to blow anything up either. That's why I'm "over building" the engine, it *should* be able to handle much more power than I intend to run it at. What made you choose .82 over 1.06? I've heard 1.06 is better for not boosting suddenly and breaking transmissions...
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I'm in the process of building my Corrado's engine. I'm going with the following for sure: Wiseco 82mm 9.0:1 forged pistons Eurospec forged rods ARP hardware P&P big valve head (42mm/36mm), Supertech springs, titanium retainers, MK4 lifters Autotech 262 cams (bought several years ago and stored, would use another set if recommended) MK4 head gasket I'm trying to decide on basically everything else. I'm heavily leaning towards a GT3582R 1.06a/r turbo and have a few questions. Will that turbo reliably produce a streetable 400+ whp? No insane spooling to break transmissio
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Hey there, new to the forum and figured I'd stop in and say hello. Here's my never ending project. A 1993 Corrado SLC. I love this car but it sure is costing me a ton of money lately! New engine build in progress, going turbo!
