Lumpzta
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Posts posted by Lumpzta
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if your engine is obd1 then you will need 109 relay but if obd2 then the relays in your fuse box is fine. when you say you have no spark it wont be a knock sensor as this just picks up any knock in the engine and will adjust ignition timing to stop the knock, have you tried checking the crank position sensor? this could be a possible culprit
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Hello guys I recently done a Vr6 conversion and im not sure what timing chain kit I need as alot are asking for reg or chassis number?
im pretty sure mine is from an early passat (obd1) reason I found out was the loom .
if anyone knows or have a link id be greatly appreciated.thanks guys!
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well that was a PITA to find this problem but think ive finally found the cause. the bit of pipe that joins the 2 exhaust manifolds together is leaking so one can assume that the lambda is picking up more oxygen in the exhaust , so that is telling the ecu to dump more fuel in to compensate the extra oxygen, hence the lean misfire when warm.just need to try seal it at the weekend ? any ideas on how I could seal the little nuts on the exhaust manifold the the joining pipes go into? cheers
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hope someone can shed some light on this. when the car gets to operating temps I get a sputter/misfire when I rev from idle up to about 1.5k revs. This doesn't do ths when engine is cold. I have replaced very recently the following parts.
coilpack
dizzy cap
rotor arm
fuel filter
lambda sensor
battery
idle air control valve
relays
took out plugs and gave them a good clean.
im guessing its something ti do with open/closed loops, hence the reason it happening only when warm? could it possibly coolant temp sensor and would this cause the problems im having ? ive just ordered a genuine coolant temp sensor so will try it but im running out of solutions to solving the problem.any help much appreciated cheers guys.
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I have exactly the same problem on my 94 obd1, sounds like it coming from piston one area. after 30secs the engine is really quiet? my oil light started to flash as I was turning the key with coil unplugged to see if I could build up oil pressure to prime the lifters. ive also noticed my oil temp doesnt get past 80 so im guessing my oil is possibly too thick on cold startup hence the knock? im not sure what oil is in it but I know its at its required level and been recently replaced by the previous owner. should I try 5/30 or 10/40 im in the south of the uk and wondered what would be best for all year round. sorry for hijack.
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just recently done a obd1 vr6 engine conversion and im having problems with a battery drain. i replaced alternator , battery , checked for current on the exciter wire which was all good . checked the alternator was charging and getting 14v. now when i done an amp test i was getting a battery drain of 1.62 amps which is killing the batterys. so i started pulling fuses and still getting the same drain. i then pulled relay 109 and it dropped to 0.16 . the relay is new (non genuine) so im going to go for the genuine one. but what i wanted to know was what would cause that relay to drain. could it be possibly stuck in the on position? i do hear it click when ignition is turned on and off. im just hoping it isnt nothing serious like a wiring issue behind the dash
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i have this in my car but i have been looking everywhere to find one. i cant seem to find one anywhere. does anyone know where this is from or is it aftermarket?
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1st pic is red/brown with red/black
2nd pic is yellow&grey which I know is the k line and obd port just need to find out where this one goes so I can hook up to the diagnostics
cheers
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just done a vr6 conversion in a mk3 golf gti 16v and im stuck on these last few wires . I know the yellow/grey is for the obd port and k line and just need to find out where these plug/splice to on the fuse box so I can get the diagnostics working. any help much appreciated.
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it might help to pour a little bit in the pump. when I done mine the pump was bone dry, when I started the engine the pump got really hot to the point where it was boiling the fluid as It finally reached the pump. after that I would always put a drop of oil in it before filling the reservoir.
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So the time come to do my vr6 conversion which was started on the 1st November after 18 hours of hard work (over a period of three day) the vr6 is finally in and running. After start up there was a high pitched squeal coming from the engine so I took the water pump out and found it wasn't in the best of conditions. the plastic blades had also come off so it was time to order a new on.
I took the aux belt off and started the engine again and was running sweet so I knew the problem wasn't coming the engine and was come from the pulley area.
I got the engine 3 weeks ago and gave myself plenty of time to source the few parts that I needed to successfully do this conversion with no hiccups.
parts needed
VR6 throttle cable
Twin fan and rad set up
Clocks which I still need to get
and a few other little bits and bobs
heres some pics of the conversion
ABF coming out
heres another one of the ABF coming out
empty engine bay
close up of the VR6 engine in the bay
and finally the dash put back together
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Does anyone know if my 16v abf throttle cable will fit to the vr6 ? or is the vr6 cable longer? only reason i ask is the throttle bodies are in a similar position. Just sorting the last of the bits i possibly need before i start the conversion.
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Timing Chain Kit (question)
in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Posted
cheers guys il have a look on the side of the block and find out as i dont have the sticker on the rocker cover