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james4287

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Posts posted by james4287

  1. That big box right where the back axle is in between the round front silencer and the back box. I need one and can't seem to get one anywhere for less that £70 which for a standard pattern exhaust silencer seems a bit steep to me. Does anyone know any after market alternatives cheaper? I've checked ebay regularly but can't find anything. Would consider going down the stainless steel route for the right price, again anyone know anywhere cheap ish? Ideally second hand as new stainless systems seem to be 300 notes plus.

    Another option is doing away with that silencer altogether, I've seen them listed on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/exhaust-mid-box-to-mid-pipe-for-VW-Golf-Mk3-Stainless-Steel-1-4-1-6-1-8-2ltr-8v-/310534088763?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AGolf%7CPlat_Gen%3AMK+III&hash=item484d46283b but when I contacted the seller he said it will only fit the models listed of which the vr6 isn't listed. The Gti is however so does anyone know if it will fit??

    Any help would be greatly appreciated?

  2. been parked up two weeks and now won't crank, while i hold the key in the crank position theres a frantic clicking noise comming from behind the dash, almost like a relay clicking but the sound is comming from above the clutch pedel area, not the fusebox.

    The lights dont dim or nothing when holding the key to crank so i'm fairly sure its not the battery.

    The fuel pump doesn't prime either, so i'm ruling out a starter motor fault, possibly immobiliser issue? i've tried the other key but still the same. car has a laserline (i think) alarm & immobiliser that was fitted about 7 years ago.

    i've had the same thing happen twice before aswell, once about a month ago and then about two years before that. but it's always started after about ten minutes ? and i've never been able to pinpoint the exact cause!

    any ideas where to start?

  3. First off, i'm unsure of the forum policy on such threads as i'm not a regular on here, but just to clarify atm the car isn't for sale anywhere, & if it's not worth in the region of what i think it is i'll just hold on for it for a few years as i dont need the money.

    Car in question is a 96/97 N reg five door in black obd2 vr6 with 80k miles on it. It is mot'd until next year sometime and mot'd until next july, i will put twelve months on if it helps price wise as i know it will pass first time, as it has every mot i've done since i've had the car, five years.

    I Bought it with 60k miles on five years ago and it has nearly all old mot's to prove miles and service history from about 2004 - nothing previous sadly and no vw history book but other manuals are present.

    in certain lights theres a few scratches, bit of rust from under the n/s/r window seal few scratches on the bumper corners etc, it's not mint,

    While i've had it i've changed the oil filter every year and have done less than 500 miles this year and about a thousand miles the year before. I've replaced, plugs, leads, coil pack, oil pressure switches & temp, both water pumps, thermostat/housing/all plastic pipes in that area, mass air flow senser, front discs and pads, rear axle bushes. auc belt. All these parts have been geniune vw parts and i have invioces to proove.

    Recently i've replaced rear discs, pads and w.bearings using non genuine parts unfortunatly. but they work perfectly fine to be fair. When i bought the car i also found a leaky rear shock so replaced both with monroe items.

    Currently on the front is 2 dunlops with less than 500 miles and the rears are kumho at about 4mm. sapce saver spare as new.

    interior is ok, again not mint but ok, slight rip in the drivers seat. both o/s window motors are intermittant. everything else works fine, single slot jvc stereo, electric sun roof (no air con)

    What kinda price whould i be asking? - Reason for sale is just bought an R32!

    golfLarge.jpg

  4. & yes i swapped the abs rings and took great care not to damage them in anyway.

    Vag-com'd it and it says:

    00287 - abs wheel speed sensor rear right g44 04-10mechanical malfunction intermittant.

    I guess i'm going to have to strip it all down again and see whats what but any common faults? i'm wondering if a lump of rust has stuck to the senser while i've had the disk off? is this possible and could it cause this code?

    I've checked wheel speed readings and rear right isn't doing anything.

    However, once i did the discs and pads i drove approx 2miles with no issues. now once i clear the code it comes back on after driving about 300 yards????

    any ideas folks??

  5. i used to run sport 9000 dunlops which i can't get no more. totally loved these tyres. i dont take it on track and it's totally standard. atm i have kumho ku31 and they are awful. i was looking at toyo t1-r tyres but alot of people say they are as good as the ku31. which i don't like at all. other options are conti sc2 which i'm undecided on, or the dunlop sp sport 01 ?

    any views? i'm not massively bothered on price, just want a tyre that grips in the wet and dry (like my sport 9000's did)

  6. yet we all know 5w30 is crap for this engine.

    Really? Why is this?

    Reason being as when i got my 60k miles vr6 i changed the oil and used 10w/40 castrol magnetec. When i bought the car i had a issue with it loosing compression when cold. After alot of thinking i decided to try a thinner oil as i suspected the thicker 10w/40 was holding the lifters open when cold. So i changed to 5w/40 oil and have had no problems ever since. I've since done 20k miles with no serious problems but if using 5w/40 is going to encourage further problems then maybe i need a set of new lifters.

  7. Just recently i've noticed a bubbling noise from the engine. when i switch the engine off, doesn't matter when it's hot or cold i can hear bubbling noises. Open the bonnet and if i put my hand on the top pipe from the matrix to the electric pump and can feel the air bubbling through if that makes sense?

    after ten mins when the pump switches off the bubbling noise stops, flick ignition on then off which restarts the pump and the noises start up again.

    in the last two years i've replaced both water pumps, thermostat, housing, plastic pipe so don't reckon it's a problem there. it's not overheating the fan is cutting in when it should and the temp gauge stays on 90 all the time. it's not loosing no water. i've ran it up to temp to check theres no air lock and left the cap off over-night, but no diferent.

    is it just the warmer weather means the pump is cutting in more often and i've just not heard it before? is this noise just the sound of the pump circulating the coolant?

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