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mombajomba

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Everything posted by mombajomba

  1. hi all, It's been a while, I had a saga with tools. Finally found the bit for the head bolts, had to use a 12 point 12mm 3/8 drive (1/2 it to big to get to them all.. grr) I'm still stuck at getting enough stack on the chain te get it over the spockets. I have a document here so hopefully I'll get it. The tension piston is out and the lower guide rail is off. I think I found the source of the ticking, the guide rail the tension bolt pushes on has a loose front piece, not sure if this will be replaceable without going deeper, I'll find out. SImon
  2. Canna find said tightening orders in the members only section.
  3. Yup, got the new bolts and head set for 70. Hopefully I'll get it all by the weekend, if not I'll have to sort it after work in the week. Premium membership for me then
  4. Howdy chaps, a little update. I've been cycling to work all week, 25 miles a day. Maybe my VR failing wasn't so bad after all. I've finally located a M12 Spline tool for the head bolts, what a ballache, it's called a triple square, or 12 point, or serated bit, or most commonly in this country a spline bit. I have'nt bought a bit that is good qaulity sadly as no one seems to sell them seperatley, se fingers cross it doesn't bend. Torque settings are 30, 40 ft/lbs +180°. Can anyone translate this for me? I have a torque ratcket on route but have never had to use one before. I assume it means be
  5. No further action on this as I'm still trying to track down a 12mm triple square bit to get these stretch bolts off with, I've got a new head set onroute aswell as the replacement stretch bolts, 70 quid, not too bad. I haven't found the torqeu setting for these stretch bolts anywhere, nor what order they should be loosened/ tightened in. I'm still worried about this thermostat, the replacement unit is shorter than the old one, the sprung metal disc on the end of it is wider too. On the old unit this disc met with the inlet hole. The goy in the parts shop assures me it will be ok and that it is
  6. Inlet and exhaust manifold came off easy, Just hope i can remember all the wires and hoses when I put it back together. I've done a photo diary to help me remember. Thermo housing is off etc.I've left the rocker cover on until I have tracked down the star tool for the stretch bolts. Mine is 2 miles short of 150K and is tappy at low revs, I'll just have to wait and see what state it's in when it's in pieces, no way can I afford to replace all the tappets if the prices I've seen are right. I suspect if it all gets a bit sticky in there It'll be getting sold on, I figured I have nothing to lose,
  7. Today is the day I start. I'm gunna put some jeans on and make a cup of tea in a minute. Looking through it's history it had the head dane 3 years ago, on the receipt it says the head was skimmed and welded, little worried about a previous crack, will have to see when it's off. There is a good head on the for sale section in birmingham that temps me but I'm worried new cam sprockets will force me into replace the chain etc, I wanna keep this as simple as possible. Hopefully I'll be on later on having taken off the manifolds and various other bits. Simon
  8. That's quite a tow to Southam, I have a land rover but it's not road legal. I'll bear it in mind though mate, cheers. Last think I wanna do is spend a load of my time striping the head off only to find that it wasn't the problem. I have been doing further investigation and it turns out that the battery is flat because the alarm was going off all night, I must be a heavy sleeper but my neighbours were more than happy to tell me. I have just had all of the spark plugs out and they are all wet with fuel making it hard to tell if there is water in there, however the 5th cylinder seemed a lot wette
  9. Sadly being the giant DONG that I am I drove the rest of the way home, I was only a mile away and I figured what the hell, It wouldn't idle and died a few times, probably because the engine and everythirg in it was about twice the size it should be due to the exceptional heat. I am just such a fool, if only I could turn back the clock and go punch myself in the face. The themo and housing are all changed now, as are all the pipes and soon the expansion tank. I went to get my coat out of it this morning and the battery was dead flat, I'd unplugged the aux water pump as it kept going even after
  10. Is tempted but again a lot more ballache. My engine was up to this point very solid, Thinking a head gasket change is gunna be easier and cheaper than a full replacement. I hear you can use mk4 gaskets on these to up the compression, and as it's a metal crush gasket on the mk4's its 'arder. Any thoughts on this? sounds a bit sketchy to me.
  11. I think it has to be a good way to go. I'm still torn as to what to do if it is the gasket. I hear that too much water in the cylinder can cause deeper engine issues. I'm thinking I'll just buy another one and transfer parts I've recently replaced on this one. Hay ho
  12. When I crank it with the expansion tank lid off water flights out at a good rate, I assumed this was the water pump but after reading a bit more online this could indicate that pressure from the cylinder is making it's way into the cooling system. Any thought?
  13. Hi all, First time on here. I have a MK3 Golf VR6, and I just love it. Sadly my thermostat seized yesterday and caused my engine to go thermonuclear. Temp went to over 110 . She won't start now, cranks but doesn't ignite. If I bump it it goes and seems to run fine (apart from water flying out of the expansion tank as the pressure valve has gone too). I'm thinking it is a head gasket failure, no water in the oil or oil in the water that I can see, I haven't taken the sparks out to look at them yet (replaced a month or so ago). Any tips? what should I expect to see on my sparks? I wonder if my b
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