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juliet

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Posts posted by juliet

  1. MK3 gear box

    in Engine Maintenance and Problems

    Posted

    My gear box is very crunchy,, its V broken. Before i ring my local car dismantlers and get myself ripped off, were VR6 gear boxes made for a higher rating than standard MK3 gear boxes or were they all the same. If i can get away with asking for a standard MK3 box then im likely to not have a couple of pounds added on because its for a VR. Is there some where i can look up this sort of info.

    All help greatly appreciated

    Thanks

    Ben

  2. My gear box is borken

    in Transmission

    Posted

    Im after sourcing a seconhand gear box, i have one of the very earliest VR6's what gear box modle is it and was it one fitted as standard to all MK3 golf,s or was it uprated for the VR6. I need the modle number so i can quiz the breakers yard im going to ring. Its 60 miles away so i want to make sure first. Or can anyone let me know where i have to look for the number.

    Thanks

    Homer

  3. GEAR SELECTION PROBLEM

    in Transmission

    Posted

    JUST A QUICK TRY, ON MINE VERY EARLY vr6 there are two cables to the gear selection mechanisum, one is fixed i.e you cant adjudt it and one is ajustable. you adjust it by undoing a small 10mm ( think its 10 ) bolt and moving the black plastic clip backwards and forwards, give it a try.

    Homer

  4. Strange problem

    in Engine Maintenance and Problems

    Posted

    Having had something like this myself, it could be either the MAF is broken and the lambda sensor as well at the same time. Some of my threads might help if you look back. With my lambda sensor nockd and the MAF problem i had car wouldnt run right, you would ease off the throttle and the engine would die / cut out but put it back on and it would surge and settle down

  6. small engine problem to sort

    in Engine Maintenance and Problems

    Posted

    Right, il shorten the problem, last one never got a reply, Car started spluttering. Have ran round with air flow meter disconnected for months, because it ran quite well whilst rolling but was a bag of you know what when stationary. Fitted new bosch lambda sensor last week, car ran a dam site better with air flow meter connected but very lumpy an low revs. Disconnected Air flow meter and hey presto car runs not to bad, doesn’t back fire and doesn’t splutter. Im assuming that the lambda sensor was part of problem. Trouble is with the MAF connected never got any fault codes it just over fuelled the car to point of 8 mpg. Disconnected up to 22 mpg. Only fault codes are 515 and 513. Are these fault codes always there because when the car is not running they are generated or are they genuine? The car runs so im certain either of these sensors is required to start the car. Does the MAF problem maybe suggest that there is a problem with the wiring between it and ECU but its not generating a fault code?

    Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

    Thanks

    Homer

  7. engine getting better but not quite

    in Engine Maintenance and Problems

    Posted

    Well to cut a long story short, as some will have already read on my posts, car has never quite run right, after fitting a new lambda sensor a year ago and so MPG went up to 27 to 30. Then one morning on my way to town the car basically spluttered and died. After disconnecting MAF and doing battery disconnect reset I made it home and have driven around like this for months. But MPG went up to 20 MPG after falling to just 5. also apart from very bad idle or none when you booted it it goes. Today have replaced MAF with working one, new lambda sensor, new plugs new distributor cap and rota arm. Car fired up and admittedly ran a lot smoother than before but still has this under lying problem i.e. ease off throttle and the engine runs on for a couple of seconds, you can feel engine missing when not under load but may be its not missing. Put your foot down and there’s no missing it goes quite well, but and I mean but the MPG has fallen to 8 or 9 MPG. The only other sensors I haven’t changed are Knock sensor, im assuming there’s only 1, sure enough if you disconnect the one i can see the engine dies, other lead next to this appears to go to a crank position sensor, mounted nest to the square oil cooler. I haven’t changed Throttle position sensor could it be this. The only other option is that it does have a uni chip added on next to the existing ECU but i really don’t want to have to go down the option of un wiring this, but could it be a fault with either the uni chip or the existing ECU No point in VAG coming it, this is the earliest of the earliest VR6 cars. Even the wire colours don’t match up in any manual I have. Any help would be most appreciated.

    Thanks

    Homer

  8. ECU information

    in Engine Maintenance and Problems

    Posted

    Second question of the day, the car currently runs and ECU code 021 906 258A bosch 0261 200 495. I cant find any of these ECU's and would like to know can i fit another one or are they simply for that car set and thts it, there appear to be loads on ebay etc with pretty similar codes but instaed of the letter A at the end they have a combinatiuon of letters. Im no expert hence the reason im asking

    Thanks

    Homer

  9. Help me im going doolally

    in Engine Maintenance and Problems

    Posted

    To cut a long story short, the car was running like a dream then whilst driving along it started spluttering and wouldnt run. I stopped the car disconected the battery ( quick reset ) and nothing. Disconnected the MAF and car wont tick over but once going goes like you know what off a hot shovel. With it connected the MPG goes down to 7 but unconnected up to 21 mpg. when it was running fine it did 27 mpg. iv replaced the Lambda, iv had 4 MAF's all second hand with no difference when iv tried them. Surly not all 4 can be broken. Iv hunted the net to find out if you can self test these old style MAF's and found nothing. It does have the old 2 pin connectors for diagnoisis but due to the fact a friend that works at VW factory in Germany says this is a rare exsample of the very earliest VRs not alot can be gained from this early diagnostic system. Not sure what to do really

  10. Lumpy over fueling heap

    in Engine Maintenance and Problems

    Posted

    Hello, several months ago i worked out that the reason my car had been running rough was the air flow meter was broken and secondly the Lambda sensor was 1. broken to 2. noy connected. I purchased a new sensor and due to the previous owner of the car taking a chain saw to the wiring had to re solder the wires on the harness. I nice man with an autodata set up gave me all the releveant coulourd wires just to make sure i was connecting the right wires back to the right wires ( if you catch my drift. ) Today on the way back from town the car started playing up and i only just made it back coupled to this it was only doing 10 mpg where it had been doing 27 mpg. I thought ah that old chest nut the lambda sensor has gone again. I plug in my code scanner a sure enough it came back with lambda sensor. I checked the joints id soldered and re did a few of them becasue i didnt know if it was a dry joint etc. Ran the car again ( after reseting the fault codes ) and the car runs like a bag of S&*TE but when i plug the code reader in it dosnt through up the lambda sensor code. Is it possible that the wiring is now ok but the sensor is not returning the correct voltage to the ECU so the code reader is not picking up the fault code because there is no broken wires etc. Also with out spending a vasrt amount of money on manuals where can i get an electrinic wiring diagram so i can check out a few things on this car.

    Any help would be most appreciated.

    Thanks

    Ben Hobson

    email - Bhobson15@googlemail.com

  12. engin fault codes

    in Engine Maintenance and Problems

    Posted

    Brilliant

    Yes the engine does indeed fell as flat as flat can be. To be perfectly honest when the engine is cold ( yes not recomended ) it goes like S&*T of a hot shovel but after it warms up you can suddenly fell it hesitating

    but also this car does indeed have a chip on it installed i might add by a repitible company could this also be cocking it upsome where,

    Also would mine have a cam sha#ft sensor it dosnt have a coil pack but a good old distributor.

    Thanks

    Homer

  13. engin fault codes

    in Engine Maintenance and Problems

    Posted

    Ps forgot to mention OBD1 early VR6 92. reason for getting code reader wanted one, got it cheap also has this hesitation problem that iv had from day one. Any suggestions on that one will really really make my day. Thought that maybe the reader might give me a clue only other bit is has early MAF 6 pin connector VW code 021 906 461 Bosch 0 280 213 021 which are like hens teeth or about £260 new

    Thanks

    Homer

  15. engin fault codes

    in Engine Maintenance and Problems

    Posted

    Iv recently purchased a engine fault code reader, which addmitadly came with a book with all the engine fault code in with a small discription next to them, Unfortunatly the description is indeed very brief and if i could just find a web site thread that explains the faults a little better this would be most appreciated. Mine came up with several some i erased some wont.

    Thanks

    Ben

  17. MAF not right

    in Engine Maintenance and Problems

    Posted

    Please help im going mad

    Finally decided after several years of messing around with various sensors that the cause of my lack of power might just be down to the MAF. So i took the numbers mine being VW 021 906 461. It has a 6 pin conector. I mistakenly bought one off Ebay to discover it only has a 4 pin conector Vw number 021 906 462A. So i rang GSF who also confimed that the only MAF they do is indeed the Second one 4 pin conector. This car has admitadly been a bit of a mistery but i now seem to have a MAF that dosent match the car. Is it possible that my engine came from somthing else ie sharan. Any help on this matter would be helpfull. also if mine is the correct MAF where can i get one from ( cheap )

    Thanks

    Homer

    - ben.hobson1@tesco.net

  18. Multi function display query

    in Engine Maintenance and Problems

    Posted

    Along with all the other probs with my car at the moment heres a little one when i switch on the ignition and the lights come on in the multi function display window / Mileage befor the milage pops up a small message appears it flashes O2in or maybe its InO2 what does this mean and is it something that could be causing my hesitation under load. New lambda sensor fitted and working ok, reson for Knowing its working car went from doing 13 to 16 MPG to Now doing 26 to 30 MPG once i had rewired the sensoe#r back in. The only bit i couldnt get to work was the signal wire to the heater side of the sensor, so i simply wired this in with a relay and fuse from a live that comes on when ignition swiched on. If any one could point me in the dircrtion of some sort of wiring diagram for my car i might be able to sort out why the original wires have no voltage on them.

    Thanks

    Homer

  20. Coil type, hesitation

    in Engine Maintenance and Problems

    Posted

    Can anyone help, After several years trying to get my car to work properly im nearly there, It still has this little hesitation proble when under full load. After buying a new lambda sensor and rewiring it back into the loom the car certainly went better, and incresed from 17 MPG to 27 to 30 MPG whic=h isnt bad for west cumbria un econimic roads. Mine has a distributor and a coil. In a bid to try and sort out its original problems earlyer on i popped down to my local garage which is also owned and run by my two good friend and ratched upstairs in the junk area and found a coil from a VW that looked the same and also fitted the connetor. Its ran with this on no probs but i would still like to be sure its running the right coil. Does anyone know what the VW code is for my car so i can check. Its just another trial and error thing, i might be running an under rated coil and this might br cauing the hesitation. On the hesitation front it stops hesitating if you lift your foot of the throttle slightly and picks up but not at the rate of Knotts it should. The only other thing it does is and yes im sure some one will point out that i shouldnt do this but when cold in morning i drive through my village about 1 mile before i turn onto the dedicated road down to sellafield which is 2.5 miles lond and straight, if you boot the car it takes off like s&*t of a hot shovel and pulls and pulls but before long it starts to hesitate, i presume once something has warmed up. Iv had all new sensors, Lambda included the only thing i havnt changed is the MAF which im currently in the proccess of getting. Any thoughts would be most appreciated. Ps iv asked about having it plugged into a code reader but the guy at our local ( 60 miles away ) VW specilist says its just not worth it on a OBD1 engine.

    Thanks

    Homer

  21. Electric window problem

    in Frequently Asked Questions

    Posted

    Thanks for the reply. The passenger window switch never worked and certainly doesnt now, because its not there. There must be something down in the bowls of the wiring and fuses that is stopping it operating via the switch but lets it operate via the key. It might be a broken wire of course but i just wanted to know does any one know of any other bit of electronic kit in the cat#r that might be causing the problem. Thanks Ben

  22. Electric window problem

    in Frequently Asked Questions

    Posted

    My passenger side electric window dosnt operate from the drivers side switch. But when you do the old hold your door key in the locked position or open position it goes up or down. So somwhere there must be some other bit of electronics and pos a fuse that operates the electric windows. Iv spent countless hours looking for a wiriing diagram for my car and have come up with nothing. Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks

    Ben

  23. [moved] Clocks

    in I.C.E, Security an Electrical

    Posted

    I recently visited our local scrap yard and decided to get my self a new set of clocks, since the petrol guage on mine was dodgy and the temp guage didnt work. I found a car and rip out the clocks and was very proud of myself until that is i got home and realised iv got 6 cylenders and the donor car only had 4. Is there any way of adjusting the new clocks so the rev counter reads normal. VW being VW i though surly they didnt go to the expense of making two different types of clock, one of 4 cylinders and another for 6. I was rather hoping that some where beneath the clock front there might be a swith of some sort to achive this. Failing that never mind it only cost a fiver. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

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