juliet
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Everything posted by juliet
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My gear box is very crunchy,, its V broken. Before i ring my local car dismantlers and get myself ripped off, were VR6 gear boxes made for a higher rating than standard MK3 gear boxes or were they all the same. If i can get away with asking for a standard MK3 box then im likely to not have a couple of pounds added on because its for a VR. Is there some where i can look up this sort of info. All help greatly appreciated Thanks Ben
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Im after sourcing a seconhand gear box, i have one of the very earliest VR6's what gear box modle is it and was it one fitted as standard to all MK3 golf,s or was it uprated for the VR6. I need the modle number so i can quiz the breakers yard im going to ring. Its 60 miles away so i want to make sure first. Or can anyone let me know where i have to look for the number. Thanks Homer
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JUST A QUICK TRY, ON MINE VERY EARLY vr6 there are two cables to the gear selection mechanisum, one is fixed i.e you cant adjudt it and one is ajustable. you adjust it by undoing a small 10mm ( think its 10 ) bolt and moving the black plastic clip backwards and forwards, give it a try. Homer
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Having had something like this myself, it could be either the MAF is broken and the lambda sensor as well at the same time. Some of my threads might help if you look back. With my lambda sensor nockd and the MAF problem i had car wouldnt run right, you would ease off the throttle and the engine would die / cut out but put it back on and it would surge and settle down
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This is a working MAF, from a recently running car, not only that in the last 5 to 6 months iv bought about 6 of these things, im either very unlucky and have bought 6 broken MAF,s or it is something else. There is as far as im aware no way to test them.
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Right, il shorten the problem, last one never got a reply, Car started spluttering. Have ran round with air flow meter disconnected for months, because it ran quite well whilst rolling but was a bag of you know what when stationary. Fitted new bosch lambda sensor last week, car ran a dam site better with air flow meter connected but very lumpy an low revs. Disconnected Air flow meter and hey presto car runs not to bad, doesn’t back fire and doesn’t splutter. Im assuming that the lambda sensor was part of problem. Trouble is with the MAF connected never got any fault codes it just over fu
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Well to cut a long story short, as some will have already read on my posts, car has never quite run right, after fitting a new lambda sensor a year ago and so MPG went up to 27 to 30. Then one morning on my way to town the car basically spluttered and died. After disconnecting MAF and doing battery disconnect reset I made it home and have driven around like this for months. But MPG went up to 20 MPG after falling to just 5. also apart from very bad idle or none when you booted it it goes. Today have replaced MAF with working one, new lambda sensor, new plugs new distributor cap and rota arm
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Second question of the day, the car currently runs and ECU code 021 906 258A bosch 0261 200 495. I cant find any of these ECU's and would like to know can i fit another one or are they simply for that car set and thts it, there appear to be loads on ebay etc with pretty similar codes but instaed of the letter A at the end they have a combinatiuon of letters. Im no expert hence the reason im asking Thanks Homer
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To cut a long story short, the car was running like a dream then whilst driving along it started spluttering and wouldnt run. I stopped the car disconected the battery ( quick reset ) and nothing. Disconnected the MAF and car wont tick over but once going goes like you know what off a hot shovel. With it connected the MPG goes down to 7 but unconnected up to 21 mpg. when it was running fine it did 27 mpg. iv replaced the Lambda, iv had 4 MAF's all second hand with no difference when iv tried them. Surly not all 4 can be broken. Iv hunted the net to find out if you can self test these old styl
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Hello, several months ago i worked out that the reason my car had been running rough was the air flow meter was broken and secondly the Lambda sensor was 1. broken to 2. noy connected. I purchased a new sensor and due to the previous owner of the car taking a chain saw to the wiring had to re solder the wires on the harness. I nice man with an autodata set up gave me all the releveant coulourd wires just to make sure i was connecting the right wires back to the right wires ( if you catch my drift. ) Today on the way back from town the car started playing up and i only just made it back couple
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One of the sliders on my sunroof is broken in half. The scrap yard is very far away, does anyone know where you can get bits for sun roofs before i take a very long drive to our scrappy Thanks homer
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Brilliant Yes the engine does indeed fell as flat as flat can be. To be perfectly honest when the engine is cold ( yes not recomended ) it goes like S&*T of a hot shovel but after it warms up you can suddenly fell it hesitating but also this car does indeed have a chip on it installed i might add by a repitible company could this also be cocking it upsome where, Also would mine have a cam sha#ft sensor it dosnt have a coil pack but a good old distributor. Thanks Homer
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Ps forgot to mention OBD1 early VR6 92. reason for getting code reader wanted one, got it cheap also has this hesitation problem that iv had from day one. Any suggestions on that one will really really make my day. Thought that maybe the reader might give me a clue only other bit is has early MAF 6 pin connector VW code 021 906 461 Bosch 0 280 213 021 which are like hens teeth or about £260 new Thanks Homer
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Ok here goes, Fault codes are as follows 00515 00533 00513 65535 All will reset with the code reader i have but all appear after running the car The book that came with the reader dosnt really explain in great detail what they mean Any help most appreciated Thanks Ben ( homer ) hobson
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Iv recently purchased a engine fault code reader, which addmitadly came with a book with all the engine fault code in with a small discription next to them, Unfortunatly the description is indeed very brief and if i could just find a web site thread that explains the faults a little better this would be most appreciated. Mine came up with several some i erased some wont. Thanks Ben
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I know this might seem a litle daft but mine regularly does this. Its fine for a month or two then it starts spluttering at low revs but dissapears above 3 to 4 thousand. I simple disconect the batery for two mins and reconect and go out for a drive this always cures mine, worth a try.
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Please help im going mad Finally decided after several years of messing around with various sensors that the cause of my lack of power might just be down to the MAF. So i took the numbers mine being VW 021 906 461. It has a 6 pin conector. I mistakenly bought one off Ebay to discover it only has a 4 pin conector Vw number 021 906 462A. So i rang GSF who also confimed that the only MAF they do is indeed the Second one 4 pin conector. This car has admitadly been a bit of a mistery but i now seem to have a MAF that dosent match the car. Is it possible that my engine came from somthing else ie s
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Along with all the other probs with my car at the moment heres a little one when i switch on the ignition and the lights come on in the multi function display window / Mileage befor the milage pops up a small message appears it flashes O2in or maybe its InO2 what does this mean and is it something that could be causing my hesitation under load. New lambda sensor fitted and working ok, reson for Knowing its working car went from doing 13 to 16 MPG to Now doing 26 to 30 MPG once i had rewired the sensoe#r back in. The only bit i couldnt get to work was the signal wire to the he
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I wil give this a go, One day One day i will tame this beast and it will start doing wahat it ment to do and not what its not meant to do. Thanks Homer
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Can anyone help, After several years trying to get my car to work properly im nearly there, It still has this little hesitation proble when under full load. After buying a new lambda sensor and rewiring it back into the loom the car certainly went better, and incresed from 17 MPG to 27 to 30 MPG whic=h isnt bad for west cumbria un econimic roads. Mine has a distributor and a coil. In a bid to try and sort out its original problems earlyer on i popped down to my local garage which is also owned and run by my two good friend and ratched upstairs in the junk area and found a coil from a VW that l
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Thanks for the reply. The passenger window switch never worked and certainly doesnt now, because its not there. There must be something down in the bowls of the wiring and fuses that is stopping it operating via the switch but lets it operate via the key. It might be a broken wire of course but i just wanted to know does any one know of any other bit of electronic kit in the cat#r that might be causing the problem. Thanks Ben
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My passenger side electric window dosnt operate from the drivers side switch. But when you do the old hold your door key in the locked position or open position it goes up or down. So somwhere there must be some other bit of electronics and pos a fuse that operates the electric windows. Iv spent countless hours looking for a wiriing diagram for my car and have come up with nothing. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Ben
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I recently visited our local scrap yard and decided to get my self a new set of clocks, since the petrol guage on mine was dodgy and the temp guage didnt work. I found a car and rip out the clocks and was very proud of myself until that is i got home and realised iv got 6 cylenders and the donor car only had 4. Is there any way of adjusting the new clocks so the rev counter reads normal. VW being VW i though surly they didnt go to the expense of making two different types of clock, one of 4 cylinders and another for 6. I was rather hoping that some where beneath the clock front there might be
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warm running problems part 2
juliet replied to The Punisher's topic in Engine Maintenance and Problems
Try the reset method. Mine was doing this. I disconnected my battery for 30 mins, then re attached it turned on the ignition and left it for another 30 mins. It worked a treat. Ben -
I had a simaler exsperiance a couple of months ago. I simply turned out to be the conector which attaches to the rear of your ignition switch. I simple cable tied it to the body of the ignition barrel and its never played up since.