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juliet

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Posts posted by juliet

  1. engine timing.

    in Engine Maintenance and Problems

    Posted

    Brilliant that person, why didnt i think of that, iv only one small problem, i cant fing the plastic cover that goes over the dizzy cap. Is there any one out there who would be willing to photograph there dizzy with plastic cover on and send it to me. Iv moved house since the car decided to stop working and the plastic cover could be anywhere, iv spent the last 20 mins looking and its not in my usual bits department.

    Thanks Homer

    bhobson15 at gmail.com

  2. engine timing.

    in Engine Maintenance and Problems

    Posted

    Right all you tecnobuffs, Iv recently had my rocker cover off, distributer off etc, this was for another problem, the problem now is how do i time my vr. Iv had all the leads off the dizzy and what to know which is cylinder 1 so i can set up the leads, and yes im gormless for not marking it all up in the first place. Is there a section i can go to on here that will let me know how to do it / work it out or does someone know of a web site that might let me know.

    Thanks

    Homer

  4. Water pump popped.

    in Engine Maintenance and Problems

    Posted

    water from the front could also be a core plug, on mine it was one right behind the oil cooler, tiny little pin prick in it, I actually thought it was the oil cooler at first and bought a new one. If you think it is the water pump then if its leaking badly you would undoubtedly find a puddle of water under that side of the car as soon as you turn the engine off.

  5. car wont start

    in Engine Maintenance and Problems

    Posted

    Il cut a long story short. Friday of the floods, car broke down. Smell of burning coming from behind dash and smoke. Leapt out of car and disconnected battery. Towed car to my friend’s garage where I discovered that the relay that feeds the ECU was hot. On removing the plug from the back the wire had melted. Followed this up to the ECU, This wire was some what melted but not enough to melt any of the other wires. Replaced the wire, worked out where it had shorted, obtained a new Relay thanks to this web site cleaned the plug where it had got a bit black and sooty. Switched on the ignition, no melting wires etc. So far so good. Car wouldn’t start. Plugged a spare lead and plug onto distributor and cranked the car over, definite spark. Now this is the strange bit. Normally when I switch the ignition on in either this car or my Mk2 Gti the fuel pump runs for a couple of seconds then stops. In fact I checked this in my gti. Im pretty sure it also does it in my VR. Switch the ignition on now and the fuel pump just keeps running and running and if you listen to the fuel rail you can here it being pumped round. Is this meant to happen or is the pump meant to build up enough pressure and switch off whilst engine is not running. Or can anyone in the know tell me of any other tests I can be doing.

    If its pumping round fairly easily I would assume that there might not be enough pressure to pump fuel through the injectors. HELP

  7. Car nearly on fire

    in Engine Maintenance and Problems

    Posted

    Hi there,

    Driving along today and the car died. I stopped at the top of the hill above our local garage, because there was a flood ( i live in Cumbria ) and i tried to re start the car. The dash lights just flickerd on and off and the car tried to crank. There was a very nasty plastic burning smell. it was either i disconect the battery or role the car into the water. I eventually got it to the garage and set to work trying to work out where the smell and melting was coming from. I traced it to relay 109 which was very very hot and eventually to a plug on the back G1 thick wire red and blue. The wire was melted. I think it is a power supply from the relay to the ecu. Any ideas and where can i get a 109 relay. Also at same time and it might be linked the fuel pump was not firing up. The pump is fine hot wired it and removed fuel supply pipe. No power at fuel pump connector. I can only assume that the 109 relay supplies the ECU which in turn sends a signal to the fuel pump relay. with out 109 the other doesn't work. im farily gutted because i do enjoy driving my VR but as a bonus im now driving my 1990 Black Gti so its not all bad

    Any help greatly appreciated Homer

    Thanks Homer[blockquote][/blockquote]

  8. car nearly on fire

    in I.C.E, Security an Electrical

    Posted

    Hi there,

    Driving along today and the car died. I stopped at the top of the hill above our local garage, because there was a flood ( i live in Cumbria ) and i tried to re start the car. The dash lights just flickerd on and off and the car tried to crank. There was a very nasty plastic burning smell. it was either i disconect the battery or role the car into the water. I eventually got it to the garage and set to work trying to work out where the smell and melting was coming from. I traced it to relay 109 which was very very hot and eventually to a plug on the back G1 thick wire red and blue. The wire was melted. I think it is a power supply to from the relay to the ecu. Any ideas and where can i get a 109 relay.

    Thanks Homer

  10. not running well at all.

    in Engine Maintenance and Problems

    Posted

    PS forgot to mention, what about the lambda sensor are you sure its working, as soon as i replaced mine it went from 17 mpg to 27 mpg but admittedly the stinking of petrol thing and running ruff was down to MAF. Also the blue water temp sendor in thermostat housing. Mine is actually plugged into a sensor mounted in the grill because if its in hot water the car has about as much power as a wet fart. These early ones are a bloody night mare as i said. I have a scanner and it keeps coming up with a crank position fault ie bad earth on the hall sendor in dizzy, theres nothing wrong with the hall sendor or the earth. what can you do. box of matches and a gallon of petrol. joking its half the fun trying to work out whats wrong

  13. Problem engaging gears.

    in Transmission

    Posted

    Hello there, i see that no one else has replied, having just done a gear box swap i had a similar problem. Changed everything new clutch new gear box etc. bolted it all back up and low and behold it would crunch trying to put it into 1st. I sorted this buy unbolting the the reverse switch from the top of the selector, then unbolting the selector arm lifting it off slowly and moving it round, ( towards my self ) by about to or three splines. Now i know some people will prob point out that the splined shaft should only sit in one position because it has a key on it, but due to the fact that the selector is made of something resembling bake bean tin i had no problem relocating it round a few splines and bolting it back down. Mine has run perfectly for 4 months now with not one single crunch. What you are in effect doing is getting the selector cable to pull it into gear a little further. Could be worth a try. Have schematics of selector if required.

    homer

  16. Tyre pressures

    in Wheels, Brakes, Suspension and Steering

    Posted

    Just a quick one, looking at tyre pressure info sites im led to believe that originally my car early vr6 had 17 inch wheels with 205/50 tyres on. And ran the pressures at 36 psi f 32 rear. My tyres are now 40 profiles and as you will all know the rides is as hard as the hard can be. If you change the profile of the tyre do you need to change the pressures. ( im no scientist ). I of course like the ride hard and like to feel every pebble on the road, My partner and kids on the other hand are sick of throwing up every couple of miles ( joking ) any info appreciated.

    Thanks

    Homer

  17. side skirts

    in Bodywork and Styling

    Posted

    Does anyone out there know where i can get the parts, part numbers for the standard side skirts for my 92 VR. The main part of the skirt is ok ( ie the two pieces that bolt to the body and are glued / taped at the top ) but the long thin insert that presses on to this has broken and rusted through. also the end caps have disappeared never to be seen again. i know they are old but there prooving very difficult to find

    Thanks

    Homer

  18. gaerbox grumble

    in Transmission

    Posted

    spot on gents, as it happens iv now got a second hand gearbox and whilst i replace it i will be replacing the clutch and if that improves it, ie crunching then great if it continues then it could be either mater of slave cylinder,

    Thanks

    Homer

  19. gaerbox grumble

    in Transmission

    Posted

    apart from thinking that somewhere along the line the syncros have gone on my box, lots of crunching, nearly impossible to get it into 1st gear or 2nd for that matter i also have a small query or oddness. if you leave the car in 1st or reverse and then start the car depending what gear your in i the car ether lurches forwards or backwards, ( this is with the clutch down of course ) this of course could be the original crunching prob, v bled the clutch system

    any ideas

    homer

  20. engin fault codes and sensors

    in Engine Maintenance and Problems

    Posted

    Hello, i have 4 fault codes, on my very early vr6, 65535 which im sure is the fact there is a dastec chip bolted onto the top of my exsisting ecu, this currently has the standard map in it, it had to be re programed so they stuck statndard map in until i can rolling road it if ever. The second is 515 which im certain is the hall sender in my dizz, which i would like to know where i can get one, 3rd is 533 and 4th 513 one of these come back as G28 sensor, where is the G28 sensor ( engine speed ) on my 92 - 93 vr. This car a pain in neck and like iv always said pulls like shit of a hot shovel in the morning when cold, but warms up and hesitates.

    am i right in saying that it is a possibility that the engine speed sensor will always throw up this code because when not running its not working, could then this be also true of the hall sensor in my distributor. leaving the ideling type fault as something i just dont know about. the car admitadly has recently been ideling at a higher rate than normal. about 12 to 13 hundred RPM. normally it would sit down under 1000 Rpm. If there is something wrong could it be the ISV. Dont think this is MAF or Lambda related, recently drove to exeter from cumbria, 70 to 80 all the way 32 mpg, so dont think its these to sensors.

    my only other thought on the matter is the reason or getting the dastec cip re programmedis because it nroke. it was spiked by something, welder, electrical short and the car wouldnt run, without disconecting the maf. once this was reprogramed and returned it runs or should i say ticks over, no splutters. Is it possible that what ever spiked the bolt on chip also has damaged the cars original ecu.

    sorry for the long winded ratnt but iv never got to the bottom this cars hesitation problems. Any help would be appreciated

    Thanks

    Homer

  21. ECU

    in Engine Tuning

    Posted

    Just a quick one, My ECU is 021 906 258 A will any of the modles after this one work or are they very engine, wiring loom specific. Reason trying to find my model is like looking for a needle on the beach let alone a haystack.

    Thanks now for any answers recieved

    Homer

  22. will this box fit

    in Transmission

    Posted

    Hello

    Further to my gearbox problem the other week, iv located a low mileage Galaxy VR6. Its on a V plate ( 99 ) I think. I can have the gear box but will it fit my 92-93 VR6 golf. It’s the only one I can find round here and the Guy even has it stripped ready to go. Will it slot straight on or are there any mods I have to do to it.

    Any info greatly appreciated

    Thanks

    Homer

  23. electric window cables

    in Interior

    Posted

    hello my drivers side electric window stopped working. Motor was turning but no operation of the glass. I stripped off the door cover and on the left hand side a cable lays. Bit rusty but it looks like its snapped. How do i fix this. Can i just replace the cable. Does any one have the exploded view they could send me thanks homer

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