kempj1
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Posts posted by kempj1
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Possibly a break in the circuit between the ecu and the bulb. At least your system works though.
Can't believe so many people think it's acceptably good crack not to have ABS. Asking for trouble in my h o. All I can suggest is that if you're running no abs try to fit sharper brake pads on the front discs than the rear. Then at lease you'll retain a little straight line stability if some blind get pulls out of you while you're tooling it down an a-road.
The VR's the first car I've had with ABS and I think it's an awesome invention. Previously I thought it was just for softies who can't drive. My GTi stopped frikkin rapidly if you stepped on it, but looking back to that and previous cars I've driven, there have been a few near misses that ABS would have prevented. Fortunately nobody got hurt.
Apologies for being a grumpy old get - I'm still at work and I'm due in again for 7am tomorrow. Good luck.
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btw. should be fine to change from fully synthetic to semi. It's when you go the other way that there can be problems with small leaks, etc.
I wouldn't go back to fully synthetic.
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Sounds a bit weird to me. It's the thickness (or weight, speaking technically) that matters, not whether it's semi/fully synthetic. If the oil's too light weight (thin) it can make the engine sound tappety.
I think if it was mine I'd try first confirming with the garage exactly what oil you have in there, if it's lighter than 10w40 try changing the oil to standard VW spec Sytha Silver (10w40) and see what happens.
Doesn't sound good
Good luck!
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My thought is that it would be a shame to replace a decent oil pump unnecessarily. Hopefully it's not the pump! What oil are you running?
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Have a wicked time folks. Weather? what weather? Just get out their and have a good time. If it's dry, go easy on your first couple of laps to let your brakes get freshened up. I'm jealous
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Mine runs smoother with higher octane fuels, and pulls a bit better from low revs. When caining it though, high rpm and open throttle, I think it makes very little difference. I've not noticed any difference between the high octane fuels.
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Hey - my wooden gearknob weighs 23 grams less than those poxy plastic ones! They added these to the highline to lower the centre of gravity.
- Might advertise it on e-bay as a performance enhancement...
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Depends how wide the wheels are. 215 will, I guess, be fine. Pressure wise don't go any lower than 30psi, and adjust to personal taste...
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I've heared they provide a nasty ride quality and very little enhancement to handling.
I have left my springs as standard and put koni adjustables on it, and ride and handling are enhanced considerably.
The only downside is that Koni adjustables will cost over £179 a pair!
Get your fronts done first.
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I didn't want to lower mine at all (speedbumps, rocks & rabbits in the road, etc), but wanted to improve the handling substantially.
Not the cheapest option, but all I did was replace the shocks with koni adjustables. Now it's really stable at speed, it brakes much better, and the handling has improved - far more predictable and feels more modern & sharper. You can also stiffen it up when you want to sharpen up turn-in. On the softest setting the car rides *more* comfortably than the standard setup, but the car is still far more stable and confidence inspiring than standard. I have mine set to about half way most of the time, but I'll be setting them to soft before hitting the motorway to head north this weekend. Then the following morning it'll be set to 3/4 stiffness for a blast on some of my favorite country roads.
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Yeah - never be too concerned about oil temps. My old GTi saw the mid-120's on the Nurburgring, and is still going strong.
My VR6 has the low temp thermostat in, just becasue the old one broke. Previously the temps would go up to 110 occasionally at very high speeds, but this really isn't anything to be worried about. With the Neuspeed 160 in the temps rarely go over 100.
A cooler engine generally develops more power. A hotter engine is generally more economical. VW reckon that the VR6 engine likes to run quite hot. No where near as hot as the old 8v 1.8 GTi engine though!
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Had a word with the fellow in Bolton. He quoted £1350 including rolling road tune, which is roughly what I was expecting. This is for a single point gas injection. Basically theres a mixer that fits in the inlet tract just before the throttle body.
Anyway, going all the way back to the start of your thread - he says that some single point systems do produce a little less power than multipoint, but this is just becasue of the mixer causing a restriction in the air intake. Effectively making your throttle body smaller, is how I visualise it.
If the mixer is matched nicely there shouldn't be any reduction in performance. He had just fitted a multipoint system to a Golf V5 and that cost £1850, and might be slightly more economical.
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Thanks pal, I'll have a word with this fellow in Bolton. These conversions are certainly a lot cheaper than they used to be. I'm not hugely concerned about the performance reduction becasue I'd mainly use it for trundling along the motorway. Obviusly it would be better not to have any performance reduction at all though!
All the best, JK
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Do you use the throttle at all when starting it? If so, don't. Try just turning the key and getting it going. Don't touch the loud pedal, and just let it sit for 30 seconds. Will idle this long?
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Certainly sounds like there's a moral somewhere. This kind of thing's happened to me before - allowing people who you've got serious doubts about to do some work on your car. I've felt like a proper prat on a couple of occasions. I hope you get some decent miles out of it before you think about taking it back to the genius lug bender!
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DBoy, do you have a link to the place that supplies this conversion?
I'm a bit interested in this too.
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If it was just corrosion/rust i'd expect them to be noisy. More likely that your callipers have seized if they aren't working. Any response from your handbrake?
I had trouble with my mk2 - their rear calipers are unreliable, but I thought mk3's have a half decent reputation.
With the mk2 I just had to brake it *really* hard several times to get them unstuck. Sometimes they would stick on though, which was crap and just overheated them.
You can try this at a standstill. Just pretend you've come flying round a corner on a country road and there's a cow in the road ahead. Properly step on it - see if that makes a difference...
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Booooo
Not good news. Don't know about syncro's mate. Does anyone have any suggestions what might be wise to replace while the gearbox is off?
I think a syncro with a lightened flywheel would probably have an *awesome* launch...
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If you do replace the clutch, ake sure you get a decent replacement. You don't really need to upgrade it, but don't try and save money be getting a *cheap* 3rd party replacement.
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I think this link's become a bit of a random one.
Anyway, did you know that the VR6 is called 'VR6' because it has 6 cylinders and makes a noise like 'VRRRR' when you floor it?
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One way is to take it to a main stealer and they put some kind of template over the linkage so they can see where it must be adjusted. Before I bought my car 1st gear was not selectable, so I got the dealer to fix it - he took it to a main dealer and they did the job f.o.c
I don't think you will be so lucky, but it's worth a shot - very quick job...
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I've had exactly the same problem on mine since I got it. Got a VW specialist to look at it and they replaced the starter motor, saying it's a servicable replacement => free from VW [fitting was chargeable
]This turned out to make no difference at all. Starts first time in the morning but after a log run or especially when the engine gets warm (has happend twice just by leaving it parked in blazing hot sunshine) the starter seems to be uninterested.
I have a theory though. It's as if the battery is at too high a voltage - maybe as a result of too high underboonet temps / overcharging. The fix is to turn the ignition on, turn the heater fan on full, turn the headlights & fogs on, turn the rear screen demist on, just try to drain the battery hard for at least a minute - probably a couple of mins. Then try and turn it over. Sometimes I have to hold the ignition key in 'start' position for over 10 seconds, but it has always done the trick. It really did my head in when I first got the car, but this works.
For a proper fix I should try replacing the car battery. I'm convinced it's to do with the starter not trusting the high voltage supplied by the over-charged / hot battery. Now I just leave the lights on / fan blowing while I'm filling up and it usually isn't much trouble to get it going.
I'd be interested in hearing if this fix does the trick for yours too. Good luck!
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Crikey - it would sound like the fuel pump, but the description of where the sound is coming from doesn't suit... Nothing seems to be malfunctioning - could it be a relay or some other electrical component coming to the end of it's natural life?
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Only when engine's running or just when ignition's on?
ABS & MOT
in Wheels, Brakes, Suspension and Steering
Posted
When this happened to me I cleaned it by pressurewashing around the hubs. It did the trick, and it was quicker than pulling the wheels off...