New Member

[CCCR96 1]

Hello,

I'm new to the forum and was pointed here by a Google search. (Other search engines are available.)

I'm in the process of convincing myself to buy a Mk4 Golf 2.8 V6 4motion.

So the question is.. ..should I?

Cheers,

David.

[daveyboy 897]

Welcome to the club mate and the answer is simple.... Yes

[Big J 283]

Welcome, don't believe Dave, buy a mk3 instead, the original and the best

[CCCR96 1]

daveyboy I love that for a straight to the point answer "Yes."

Big J I am very tempted but I've been steered to the Mk4 4motion for the haldex 4wd.

Now the next question(s) are to any owners what do I need to look out for on a Mk4?

...AND are these V6 timing chains, guides and tensioners really a major factor/ problem?

Edited December 6, 2014 by CCCR96

[Big J 283]

The haldex is good, but do it with an r32 mate, I will prob get slaughtered for saying that but I'm biased having had 2 mk4 32s and I'm now on a 6R purely for the haldex. But none of them have the soul of the traditional mk3 VR. Hence why she's wrapped up under a cover

As for chains, I can only speak for the mk3 AAA engine as I haven't changed any on a mk4, but listen for rattles on startup around the bell housing area especially on cars approaching or just over 100k. Anything sounding a bit metallic and rough round the edges could be signs of guides wearing or worse still worn through already. I've seen them sound terrible on startup from cold and then even out nicely and purr after about 5 secs which is usually a sign of hydraulic tensioner failure bleeding pressure and not holding chains taught.

None of which are a major job, the tensioner is a piece of piss to be honest and costs about £40-£60, but the chains and guides are a bit more involved. Parts alone cost me around the £300 mark the last time a did one but you'll want to factor cost if a clutch at the same time which is around £100 for an OE spec LUK. It's senseless going to all the effort of pulling the box and not changing the clutch.

Edited December 6, 2014 by Big J

[bennyk 1,238]

Had a few 3.2's in at work recently with stretched timing chains a very common problem apparently, with cars that have over 60k on them, we refuse to get involved with and after speaking to a couple of mates at audi main dealers they don't like doing them either! Can quite easily be a £2000+ job. You usually find out with a engine light on, rough running and cam/crank sensor faults.

Not sure if the 2.8's suffer with the same problems?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited December 6, 2014 by bennyk

[Big J 283]

Can't comment on 2.8 fault lights but I have heard the 3.2s throw faults when they stretch, it does make sense really considering the timing is being altered beyond the control of ignition timing.

Later 6cyl engines like the r32 can hav timing checked on vagcom using electronic measuring blocks which is a good indication of chain wear.

[daveyboy 897]

Welcome, don't believe Dave, buy a mk3 instead, the original and the best

Big J is right the mk3 is the better original

[CCCR96 1]

Thanks for all your replies.

 

I'll start this post by saying I agree the Mk3 VR6 is the original and best.

 

Now on my meager purchasing budget a Mk4 R32 is out of reach financially and I just don't want to give in an buy a Mk4 GT TDI PD130.

So to keep it petrol the Mk4 2.8 V6 4motion interests me more than another 1.8 20V T engined car (I've owned 3.)

 

However I keep questioning why a Mk4 with a good spec, engine and 4motion is available for such a reasonable price?

I know it being a V6 and 4motion will be part of the reason but my research also came up with the cam timing set being the other factor mentioned as most of the options in my search budget are around the 100k mileage mark.

 

If it is a factor how hard is it to DIY the cam timing set (and removing the Haldex system?)

And..

How much should I be expecting to pay in parts?

Edited December 7, 2014 by CCCR96