liam8889 0 Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 Help needed!I have changed the pulley bearing (old one worn out) , belt (last one shiny) , refilled all fluid levels (did have power steering leak but used the magic lucas stuff to plug it, leak stopped), These fixed the obvious noises related to each. I.E squeaks and whining.But, after the car has warmed from driving for about 5 min, it starts to whir. it doesn't seem to stop when pressing the clutch in or turning left or right. Doesn't make the sound when the car is cold.Have changed the fuel pump and filter recently as old ones bearings gave up, I also done an oil and filter change. The car stutters sometimes on acceleration but not that often (gonna change the leads and plugs next). But my concern is the whirring.Any Ideas??? Please ???? Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 1,455 Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 Hi Liam,welcome to the website, do you have any idea where the noises are coming from to narrow it down? does it worsen when you turn the steering wheel? might be an idea to upload a video so we can hear the noise... i'm possibly thinking oil is too thin, and once it warms up could be causing your oil pump to become noisy, or likewise with gearbox oil... only a theory, but will need to hear to sound for my self Link to post Share on other sites
liam8889 0 Posted June 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 Hi VR6PETE,Thanks, difficult to pin point where the noise is coming from as I can only hear it whilst driving. Sounds like its coming from the front but, sound travels in mysterious ways around a cars chassis. It does sound a bit tinny on tick over when I listen around the pulley area. But no whirring.With the oil , I put in 10w40 semi-synthetic as that seemed to be the stuff most peeps where putting in their VR's. Haven't checked the gearbox oil if its low or thin. Am i correct in thinking I need a 17mm allan key to drain the gearbox? If so which g/box oil is the best one to replace with?Am at work at the mo but hopefully will be able to record the sound at some point and post. Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 You do need a 17mm hex to undo the gearbox plugs, undo the top fill one before undoing the bottom drain to prevent dropping the oil then not being able to fill it back up. Most use redline MT90, last time I used this and the time before I used redline MTL, the MT90 seems to give a better shift buffer as its slightly thicker. Whatever you use it HAS to be GL4 don't get anything unless it states that its GL4. GL5 doesn't supersede it, it will destroy the brass synchros if you use it. Link to post Share on other sites
liam8889 0 Posted June 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 Thanks for that great info Lukey. I'm assuming the 17mm hex bolts will need some brute force to release. If on the off chance the thread strips is there a backup i.e. slightly larger hex, re-tap the whole. or is it knackered? Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 I don't think it will have ever been touched previous to you, but even so I don't think you're going to have an issue with it stripping, when I had the box off I full 14st of me stood and hopped on my ratchet to get it to undo, the plugs are immensely strong. Link to post Share on other sites
liam8889 0 Posted June 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 That's great. If the oil is low.should i use some of that lucas g/box stop leak stuff to seek any leaks? or will that kill the g/box? Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted June 13, 2013 Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 Does the box leak? If no then just change the oil, it'll take pretty much the whole of 2 bottles. Link to post Share on other sites
liam8889 0 Posted June 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 Cant see any obvious leaks. will do tha job hopefully at the weekend. Link to post Share on other sites
liam8889 0 Posted June 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2013 Ok.So I have changed the tranny oil. The gear change is now much smoother but the whirring is still there. Does it take a while for the new oil to circulate around the gearbox . Will check the fluid level again today incase it needs a top up as only managed to put in 1.5 litre of the fresh oil . Have now noticed that the whirring disappears when the clutch is depressed. Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted June 29, 2013 Report Share Posted June 29, 2013 Could be the release bearing Link to post Share on other sites
liam8889 0 Posted June 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2013 Oooh! Is that expensive to get sorted? And how can i be 100% sure that's the problem? Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted June 29, 2013 Report Share Posted June 29, 2013 If that's what it is then you would need to take the gearbox off as its inside the bell housing, do you know if its had a clutch recently? If its an old clutch then the bearing can start to make a noise, its not really imperative though unless it gets noticeably worse noticeably quickly, when I got mine about 3 years ago the bearing made a whine, it lasted fine until like last month when I replaced it. Link to post Share on other sites
liam8889 0 Posted July 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 Hi, Had the car checked out by a mechanic. He says the Input Shaft Bearing is on its way and if i get that done I may as well replace the clutch. I suppose thats a strip and rebuild. Would it be cheaper to just get hold of a recon box and pay someone to swop out or get the repairs done? Link to post Share on other sites
Lukey. 381 Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 Ah it was a toss up between input or release I thought release was the more obvious one and doable by yourself. The input shaft bearing needs the box to be split open to fix yes. Link to post Share on other sites
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