bungy 2 Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 When I changed my mounts they were changed for Vibra-technics competition ones but the same applies for changing OEM or other makes.Tools required will be 10,13,16,17 & 18mm sockets with extensions and a breaker bar. Also a trolley jack and I needed my small ramps to be able to get the jack under the front. Also a block of wood and a pry bar and allen keys.With the car raised at the front and a jack beneath the sump on the drivers side place a piece of wood to help spread the load and ensure you don't damage the casing. Lift carefully to just see movement on the mount rubber.The power steering resevoir is held on place with one allen bolt and once removed can be positioned out of the way giving more access. The mount is held in place by 2x16mm and 2x18mm bolts. There is also a support bracket held by 2x13mm bolts. With all of these removed the mount can be lifted out and the new one positioned.Be careful to tighten the engine side of the mount before lowering the jack and tightening the structural side (2x17mm bolts included in the kit). On mine the OEM engine bolts (2x18mm) were a few mm too long for the blind holes which needed cutting. The power steering resevoir and support bracket can then go back.Here are the two side by side for the engine side.The gearbox side needs access through the main cable tray and there is a specifically placed hole to access one of the mounting bolts. The gearbox needs supporting in the same way that the engine did with the jack. The air box needs to be removed for access.With the 2x16mm and 2x18mm and 1x13mm bolts removed the mount can be lifted free.The new one is positioned but the 13mm bolt is not required for this type.The gearbox mounts side by side. Link to post Share on other sites
Daverse 175 Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 good write up mate, let us know how the competition ones differ to standards! Link to post Share on other sites
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