Water cooled turbo question.

[russj249 2]

i have a t61 turbo, unsure of full spec, but it was oil feed and drain holes and also water cooled in and out.

do i have to actually use the water cooled bit or will i melt it!

[UnitedMotorsport 55]

Is it a ball bearing turbo?

[russj249 2]

to be honest i'm not sure. i don't think it is.

is there any way to tell?

[FishWick 21]

Ball Bearing turbos have a little up-down play in the turbo shaft, a smaller oil inlet (usually come with a brass restrictor too) and they spin by hand easily and freely when held perfefly horizontal.

Journal turbos have larger oil inlets and tend to slow down pretty quickly when spun up by hand.

You can also cross reference the CHRA number if its a genuine Garrett. CHRA being the bearing housing, or the big inbetween the two wheels.

[russj249 2]

Ball Bearing turbos have a little up-down play in the turbo shaft' date=' a smaller oil inlet (usually come with a brass restrictor too) and they spin by hand easily and freely when held perfefly horizontal.

Journal turbos have larger oil inlets and tend to slow down pretty quickly when spun up by hand.

You can also cross reference the CHRA number if its a genuine Garrett. CHRA being the bearing housing, or the big inbetween the two wheels.

[/quote']

That's great information Kev...

My turbo does have a bit of movement it the shaft up and down, but not forwards and backwards (if that makes sense)

The oil inlet (i'm presuming because it has a little plug in it) is smaller than the other side presumable the return,

And after lots of spinning by me and the Mrs, and painful fingers after, we both think that it spins easier when perfectly horizontal. Still spins free when at 45 degree's but does seem to stop quicker and a very very very slight bit more resistance.

[FishWick 21]

LOL, so you spent your evening spinning turbo blades :-)

Yeah no turbo should have lateral play otherwise blades strart hitting housings when it spins up. That can happen when thrust bearings wear out though, so a good quality, clean oil is essential for long turbo life.

[russj249 2]

LOL' date=' so you spent your evening spinning turbo blades :-)

Yeah no turbo should have lateral play otherwise blades strart hitting housings when it spins up. That can happen when thrust bearings wear out though, so a good quality, clean oil is essential for long turbo life.

[/quote']

haha yea we both sat there taking it in turns to spin it!

anyway, now we seem to know what turbo it is. what do i need to do with the water side of things. there is just 2 holes with thread in them for water, but can't seem to find anywhere that sells something to screw in that i can clamp pipes to. i'd just use the 2 water pipes that go to the throttle body at the moment, but someway so they won't melt!

[FishWick 21]

If it's Garrett turbo, the threaded holes are M14 x 1.5

Google "GT35R water fittings" and there's tonnes of info and fittings available.

I seriously would not use rubber hoses, even with that aluminiumised fibreglass heat shielding.

Have a look in my DIY Turbo thread for a good way of making robust water lines that last.

Steel hard line is the best way to do it but you need expensive bending and flaring tools to do it properly.

[russj249 2]

Once again, nothing but the truth! top bloke kev!

they are an m14 yea, i grabbed a bolt from work earlier to double check the thread.

i will have another look through your guide too. i've flicked through many time's before, but oil and water bits i've not looked at in detail.

i was hoping i could get something with a braided hose with m14 fitting one end, and on other end to fit with straight pipe connector to original pipes well away from the turbo. i've been warned about rubber.

how would silicone pipe work? say for instance samco pipe maybe 8 or 10mm internal diameter, or i seem to find most fittings allow for a 3/8 pipe. i am going to check out an american company that does the water and oil fittings.

[FishWick 21]

Believe me mate, waiting at the side of the road for the AA because the turbo water lines have ruptured is no fun. Happened to me twice with the water hoses and once with an oil line!

Silicone isn't going to work for long either. I use -6 braided PTFE, which can handle 230 deg C. It's the next best thing to steel / alloy hard line. http://www.speedflowshop.co.uk/-06-teflon-stainless-steel-braided-hose-200-06-1073-p.asp

I use the same in -4 size for the oil line as well!

The water lines can be rubber or silicone off to the side away from the heat, but directy above and around the turbo, it needs to handle the heat :-)