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A cat-back system won't help as this doesn't replace the cat. You may need to replace the cat itself. It might be getting worse right now because the weather is cold (means the cat doesn't start to work so quickly).

Or, if you know a sympathetic MOT station, decat the exhaust and enjoy the improved throttle response!

ip

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Oh ok so whats the difference between a cat back exhaust and a normal exhaust or am i sounding stupid here?

Also i need to get my car hooked up to a vagcom computer as i need to reset my airbag light but shall i buy one off ebay or get someone else to do it for me and pay them?

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Just to clarify, a cat back exhaust is a normal exahaust and connects after the cat (thus not including a new cat). This is why I don't think it will help with your issue. Xyber is right though. Could be overfueling. When my temp sender broke it kept under reading and told the engine that it was stuck at 40 degrees. The result was constant overfueling and a nasty smell.

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They are well worth it, if you suspect anything is wrong it only takes 30 secs to get a hint at what it is wrong, takes all the guess work out of it and they are cheaper to buy for yourself than it is to get a garage to scan for you once

Plus in the future, should you by another VAG car, theres nothing like rocking up to look at a car and doing a diagnostic on it to get the seller worried :)

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Got the reader today and got a couple of questions mate?

1. Where can i find a more detailed description of the codes as the book that came with the reader isnt very helpful? I have matched up the codes to the book and it gives a very brief description but how do i go about fixing the problems its telling me?

2. I have to fault codes on the srs but can you erase one code without erasing the other?

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http://www.bentleypublishers.com/tech/vw/vw.dtc.table.htm

is a good place to start. I've never found a resource that gives more than a one line explanation for each code though. Saying that, normally, one line is enough.

What are the fault codes that you are getting? Can't really advise on how to fix them if we don't know what they are!

More importantly thouigh, is the srs section the airbag section? I've heard it said that there is real danger in messing with the airbag codes as erasing codes can cause the airbags to go off. The vag-com software that I got with my reader actually specifically advises not messing with airbag codes on cars built before 2002.

ip

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Sorry dude, didn't mean to scare you. I just know that my software states very clearly that resetting airbag codes is risky. Other people here might be able to reassure you that this is not the case. If the airbag light is on though then there is every chance this is because something is actually broken. Clearing the codes might well only work until you next start the car (if they don't set off the airbag itself). Better to work out why it is upset first:

00668 - low voltage-intermittant fault on controller 3 (ABS)

00588 - Air-bag Ignition Circuit - Driver Side -N95

00532 - Transmission Control Module Relay - Supply - Voltage (B+) Malfunction Low Battery or Bad Ground

00281 - Vehicle Speed Sensor - No Signal (G68)

Got all these from here:

http://blog.pureflash.net/2008-10-11/diagnostic-trouble-code-dtc-overview

Okay, so the common theme here is that two of the four codes relate to low battery/supply voltage or bad grounding. The 00588 code might be a side effect of the 00668 code since this fault code indicates that the ABS controller is not starting up correctly (because of weak supply voltage).

The 00588 code is less likely to be a side effect of a low battery voltage but might simply need a new sensor. Try resetting the 00532 and 00281 codes and see if they come back.

Meanwhile, since two of these codes relate to bad supply, how is the battery? Is it a little sluggish when starting? If not then you might want to start the (unenviable) task of tracking down and cleaning up loom contacts.

Unfortunately, none of these codes give any indicator as to why you're producing sulfur dioxide. This suggests that the problem might not be a total sensor failure but simply one drifting out of spec. Does your code reader allow you to measure temp output from the engine temp sender or Lambda sensor readings?

ip

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Hi mate the airbag light is on because i had to remove the steering wheel to replace a faulty indicator stalk (oops forgot to mention this). So i just need to clear 00668 and 00588 and and hopefully once i scan again they will both dissapear.

I will reset the 00532 and 00281 at the weekend when its daylight as im on long shifts with work at the moment and its dark and depressing when i get home. The battery is fine car starts first time every time without fail, unless its my sound system draining the battery? That could be it, ive just bought a powercap that im going to install too just havent had the time yet.

Also no my code reader does not measure temp output from the engine temp sender or Lambda sensor readings?

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That makes a lot more sense. I guess you can try resetting those airbag codes but I'd not sit in either of the front seats while doing it! Yeah , reset the other codes and see if they come back.

The reason I ask about the lambda and temp probe outputs is that these are often prone to failure and have a lot to do with controlling the fuel mixture.

On my car for example, the dash temp gauge measured 90 degrees so all appeared fine but this is connected to the yellow temp probe in the stat housing. The ECU gets it's temp reading from a different (blue) temp sender. This was broken and reported a low temp all the time (but not low enough to trigger a fault). The result was that the car ran with a rich mixture all the time because it the ECU thought the engine was always cold. The result was an eggy smell and about 17mpg!! I understand that the lambda probe can cause similar issues.

ip

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Exactly. Sometimes problems show up so intermittently that resetting them once a year or so is fine (I have an intermittent camshaft sensor error that showed up once and never came back after resetting). Other times you can reset them and they'll be back right away. In that case, something will generally need to be fixed/replaced.

The lambda sensor is found on top of the cat (you can get pretty decent generic ones now for as little as £15 on ebay but they are a git to install).

The temp sensors (blue and yellow) are found on the ['stat housing front right hand side of engine block as viewed from front of car (where all your coolant hoses run to). Changing these sensors is a two min job. However, they are not super cheap and so it would be nice to be able to check them before replacing. This is easy with Vag-Com software and a laptop but not with the basic fault code reader that you have.

ip

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok so i finally got round to plugging in my code reader today and i reset the codes and then i scanned again and they didnt show up so hopefully thats it but i think i will scan again but i will give it a week or so just to be sure.

I also reset the airbag light no problem and thankfully the airbag didnt go off although i made sure i was out of the car just in case. lols :-p

As for the eggy smell i havent noticed it lately so i dunno whats going on with that?

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