ABS Fuse - which one is it?

[IanH26 0]

Newbie help - which fuse is the ABS?

Car is for track use and never had the fuse cover so just checking before taking them out one by one.

Ian

[Phat VR6 3]

If your pulling fuse because you don't like ABS your back ends going to lock all the time before the fronts

[IanH26 0]

Why should the back end lock?

There is a weight transfer bias valve to remove pressure from the brake system to the rear so they don't lock up.

The reason for removing the ABS fuse is I feel it comes in way to early on track in the dry (Nurburgring main use) and on the road sometimes.

I use R888 tyres on track with yellow stuff pads all round.

So I wanted to test what it will be like without the ABS cutting in, hence why I wanted to know which is the ABS fuse.

A photo would be great of the fuse panel cover or highlighted on the fuse box itself.

Ian

[Karr-Man 0]

well my fuse cover says number 4 (numbered from the left) but the servo pump is on the same fuse so i doubt taking it out would be a good idea...

[IanH26 0]

OH....

So how do people de-activate the ABS?

I know its been done by a few people for track use.

Thanks for the response.

Ian

[thegoth 5]

Unplug the ABS ECU?

[IanH26 0]

How do you do that??

Ian

[thegoth 5]

The ABS unit is bolted to the bulk head by the heater matrix hoses / coolant header bottle, ie passenger side. on the, probably, left side of it will be a connector. To undo it pull the two tabs, top and bottom, towards you - may well be very stiff.

[IanH26 0]

So will this deactivate just the ABS system?

Might try it later, thanks.

Ian

[Phat VR6 3]

Why should the back end lock?

There is a weight transfer bias valve to remove pressure from the brake system to the rear so they don't lock up.

Ian

Donno if its different for OBD1 but my OBD2 didn't have one, Or anywhere to mount it on the rear axal. If you think about it theres no need for a load sensing valve if you have ABS, 3 up in the back, wheel locks ABS senses this and then the abs pump controls the amount pressure need to the back, Pull the fuse and there's nothing regulating pressure to the back, If yours is OBD2 then the back WILL lock first

To do it properly you can use your current VR master cylinder and use to T pieces to run diagonal split braking, Ie one out let gets split in the engine bay to run N/S/R and O/S/F... the other on does O/S/R and N/S/F, Then can use a load sensing valve on the rear beam. This is the safest way as you keep the split braking, IE you have a flex y snap or brake pipe fail you still got one front and rear brake working, Also MOT passable

The other way you can do it is still keep your current VR master cylinder, Run one outlet to the front split with a tee piece to each front wheel, then run the second outlet though your cab to your dash, put a adjustable bias valve on your dash, then run the pipe strate to the back and split with T piece, This way you can adjust it to get the perfix set up, probaly suits you more as you do track days but im not sure it it passes MOTs and if somthink goes wrong you will end up with only your front or rear wheels braking... not as safe

Hope this helps Tom

[thegoth 5]

So will this deactivate just the ABS system?

Might try it later' date=' thanks.

Ian

[/quote']

I hope so ;-)

[Marky 0]

As a follow on, just had a look at my ABS unit. There are three plugs going into it: One to some kind of resistor, one to the side and one underneath.

Which one will deactivate the ABS?

[Phat VR6 3]

LOL does everyone think i chat complete bollocks, I dunno why i bother..... Think of me when you sideways at 70

[VR6Pete 1,455]

later VR's dont have the bias valve as far as I'm aware... what year is your motah?

I've had the back end out a few times on my mk2 and mk3.. was nearly facing the other way a few months ago in the MK2 as it has no ABS now... and with MK3's the back end just goes before you know whats happening like when I smashed mine at the 'ring... was too late to correct... dam mk3's!