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Ok here's the situation.

I've got to the point where I've paid things off and can start to actually save etc.

My plan is and always has been to rebuild my VR6's (Corrado) engine to get it ultra reliable, including if it was supercharged.

My engine still works fine (especially as a weekend car) but is getting on a bit now.

I have no mechanical knowledge past what I've read so any answers can you keep in dumb dumb speak! :)

Ques1: How much would you set aside (rough guestimate I know) for a full rebuild if I wanted the above? Parts cost?

Ques2: What would you uprate whilst this is been done? I'd want a reliable engine that could easily take a stage 2 Supercharger.

Ques3: Would it be cheaper to get another VR6 engine (as mines stil working) and get them to rebuild that, then swap over?

My contraints are: Reliable enough not to worry about taking it across Europe etc and up to a stage 2 supercharger. Almost factory fresh/uprated if you will. After much thought I'm wanting to do this over an engine transplant.

Thanks!

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its not cheap for a rebuild, for example my mate has a tsr engine which cost £4000 to do it came with a pack A head which was £1500 so i guess the rbuild with labour an fitting was £3500 this was two years ago. i would recommend arp rod bolts and a seperate oil cooler as oil temp on corrados does creep up when getting death compared to the golf

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stage 2 charger wise, oil cooler would be needed, low temp coolant stat and uprated engine mounts. That will sort it really, so long as the temperatures are kept under control itll be fine, you could be it for about £3000 all in

charging does put extra strain on the engine, but not as much as you would think, normal everyday driving is smoothed out and more efficient and its not really that often, I find, that your actually on boost if you see what I mean, as it just wafts you along at 100mph without breaking a sweat

mine actually runs cooler that it did standard now

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pretty much what they said....

If your doing an engine rebuild it will cost you (If it aint broke dont fix it.....)

Charger wise if you can spare a tenner join up as a premium member and there are quite a few threads on what to do and look out for. In summary you only need to do the, engine mounts and the remap. If you want reliability you need to upgrade the CAT as heat will kill it and also do the oil cooler. Temperature is the killer on charged engines

The engine, gearbox and clutch are all capable of handling the power of a stage 2 with comfort. As said you will be surprised how often you dont use it.

I would add my driving style and fuel bill has actually dropped as you dont need to thrash the car... One caviat however. When you do enjoy your right foot; your fuel bill goes through the roof along with the smile.... :D

Cost wise - well --- buy smart and you should be able to do it all for £3k.... Go on become a member of the charged club... get the premium member benefits aswell ....

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ive got a v9 charger stage 2, if i new then what i no now go rotrex more boost at loweer revs (more BHP), if you do go v9 upgrade to race bearings straight away before it is shipped over ,then you can run more boost safly with a custom made pulley which i am looking into as 8psi is not enough as most vrs are going the turbo route

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Rebuilt my engine and supercharged it. and i roughly spent around £5,000! Half of that was the Charger kit itself. I went for a full engine rebuild and paid for the enginering work that i couldnt do myself which was quite expensive. I would advise speaking to someone like Storm Devolpments and seeing what they advise with the rebuild. If you want big power then you need to think about lowering the compression and i dont think that a spacer gasket is the best solution, The best way is to buy Pistions but now your getting into mega money!!! I run the Rotrex at 6psi and its awesome, Storm will sell you a kit that you can run on standard compression at 10psi to produce around 300bhp!!! And everyone knows that is more than enough for a front wheel drive to cope with.

Just remember that the better condition your engine then the more power and better reliabilty you will get from it, And there will always be a few suprise's that can be expensive!!!!

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what i cant understand

is supercharger or turbo 300+bhp

how can u get traction of the line out of front wheel drive

it must just sit and spin of the traffic lights

do u need LSD or quaife gearbox

or is it better to supercharger or turbo say 4 motion or R32 because of four wheel drive

but rolling along at 50 mph and floor the car is where the rush of all the power must come

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you only wheel spin if you drop the clutch. the rest of the time it is like driving in the snow/wet. you use your progressive right foot..... remember up to 10% wheelspin for maximum get away .... according to F1 type people....

Once you figure it out you will be surprised how often you don't wheelspin....

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i agree mine dont really spin unless i want it to. the onyl time it really spins bad is in the wet an then i dont really use it so nothing to be worried about unless your wearing lead boots

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