aks650 0 Posted April 1, 2008 Report Share Posted April 1, 2008 Got a VR6 Corrado and i've got a problem lol, the car starts fine from cold but once its up to temperature and you stop and leave it for a bit and go to start it again the engine seems to take a while to fire up, it does start tho maybe 4 or 5 seconds turning over then it fires up!??? any ideas? ive just ordered new rotor arm, dirtributer cap and leads do you think this will cure the problem?? the car runs perfect once started btw!Please helpAdam Link to post Share on other sites
Devildub_06 0 Posted April 2, 2008 Report Share Posted April 2, 2008 Not really, if it runs fine but is just a hot starting issue, i'd say spark plugs and HT leads are doing their jobs reasonably enough. Do you notice if there is a puff of smoke out the back when it fires? Do you notice the fuel pump "priming" before starting? Link to post Share on other sites
aks650 0 Posted April 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2008 hi, theres no smoke on start up and i think the fuel pumps prinming it just seems to take ages to start, kinda annoying as the car runs brilliantly other than that!? Link to post Share on other sites
Phat VR6 3 Posted April 2, 2008 Report Share Posted April 2, 2008 Ok I dont know for sure but I think it could be bad earths or possibly starter motor. Both of these can cause the problem your describing.. Mk2s are comon to have the bad earth problem Link to post Share on other sites
Devildub_06 0 Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 Ok, try this for a basic diagnostic check, does the car start better when hot if you have a little bit of accelerator on? Link to post Share on other sites
Phat VR6 3 Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 Ok' date=' try this for a basic diagnostic check, does the car start better when hot if you have a little bit of accelerator on?[/quote']As in it could be somthink todo with the cold start? Could also do a compression test just to see how heathy it is.. dont take long.. My mates mk1 took awhile to start.. Doesn't start atall now so i went to have a look at it did a compression test at it was reading 3 bar at most :S oil in bore and it went to 7 bar.. no air filter so i think its the rings.. motors with low compression take a while to wind up somtimes aswell Link to post Share on other sites
Samson 0 Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 I would check out the camshaft position sensor myself, try and swap it for a known working one. Link to post Share on other sites
aks650 0 Posted April 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 where is the cam shaft sensor located? would a haynes vr6 golf manual be of use to me as ive got a carrodo? Link to post Share on other sites
Devildub_06 0 Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 Ok' date=' try this for a basic diagnostic check, does the car start better when hot if you have a little bit of accelerator on?[/quote']As in it could be somthink todo with the cold start? Could also do a compression test just to see how heathy it is.. dont take long.. My mates mk1 took awhile to start.. Doesn't start atall now so i went to have a look at it did a compression test at it was reading 3 bar at most :S oil in bore and it went to 7 bar.. no air filter so i think its the rings.. motors with low compression take a while to wind up somtimes aswellI was thinking initially that it maybe a slightly sticky idle bypass, and a light throttle opening would override this. If it fires on the button then it pretty much centres on that as the fault. If not then I would consider checking for injector rail leak back, and yes a compression test. In no way meaning to be rude at all I try to give basic diagnostic advice assuming that people who have problems have little experience in fault finding, and try to find the easiest route to finding the problem. I more than welcome feedback after doing things I say to do and hopefully go from there, but if there is something a bit more specialised then I will refer people to one of the many smart kiddiwinks on here lol! Link to post Share on other sites
Samson 0 Posted April 3, 2008 Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 As you look at the engine from the front of the car, where you have your Coil pack/Distributor the sensor is on the side of the head screwed in with 2 allen key bolts and a single connecting clip going to it. I can get a picture of it for you tonight and upload it if that helps? Link to post Share on other sites
aks650 0 Posted April 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2008 yeah that would be good if you could do that! erm it just always seems to take about 4 or 5 seconds to fire when hot, if its low compression how does that get sorted? big garage bill? Link to post Share on other sites
aks650 0 Posted April 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 Right got the Corrado back from the garage today, checked for a starting fault, nothing obvious except that the idle control valve was manky so they cleaned it up and now the idle is all erratic up and down, stalling when coming down the gears! so they are oredering a new one up for me, does anyone no the price of these? big job to fit? and found that the ignition leads are "ARCHING" so they orederd up new Magnicore red leads! fingers crossed this will sort it!?? Any advice would be great peopleCheers Adam Link to post Share on other sites
thegoth 5 Posted April 11, 2008 Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 ISVs: not cheap > £100 I'd say. Easy job to fit. Have they reset the ECU since they cleaned your current ISV? I'd recommended it after changing / cleaning any control system so that the ECU can reteach itself. Link to post Share on other sites
aks650 0 Posted April 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 i'm not sure? how does it get reset? but since its been cleaned the idle is all over the place, stalls when coming to junctions ect? is there a workshop manual i can get hold of need to teach myself about the vr6 engine lol Link to post Share on other sites
thegoth 5 Posted April 11, 2008 Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 disconnect the battery for half an hour. To reteach it; turn off all the electrics, start her up and let it idle until the fans kick in. It will continue to learn for the next for starts. Link to post Share on other sites
aks650 0 Posted April 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 Right okay, a new idle control valve from VW is £190 Ahhh lol, is there anyway of checking that the old one is faulty? i dont mind spending the money buying a new one if it needs it! Link to post Share on other sites
thegoth 5 Posted April 14, 2008 Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 Ouch, when I posted the price I did have £180 in my head but couldn't believe that was right!I'm sure I came across some information when I was looking at mine. Try googling the Bosch part number. The same part is also in Saabs I think.I think it's as simple as a voltage across it opens the valve. The ECU varies the voltage to vary the opening. But I recall some complication like the ECU controlling the Earth rather than the live side! I can measure the internal resistances for you tonight as a preliminary check that something hasn't melted.TGP.s. If it has been disconnected with the engine running then it will have generated a fault code which will need clearing before the ECU will be happy. Link to post Share on other sites
aks650 0 Posted April 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 Well i reset the ecu yesterday and still the same, starts up form cold pertfect then after about 5 mins or idleing about 1500rpm the revs will drop to about 1100rpm then its like it trys to drop to its normal idle but it cant! could ignition leads cause a dodgy idle? i know they need replaced! driving me mad lol Link to post Share on other sites
Devildub_06 0 Posted April 14, 2008 Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 That's rather high, my old highline started on an icy cold morning would only hit 1,200 rpm then settle to about 700 rpm. I would be sorely tempted to have a further prod at that bypass, whip it off yourself and run some carb cleaner through it (not saying that the garage didn't do a good job, but if it was done in a hurry, may not have been done well enough). Then as per The Goth's instructions, reset it all over again and have a crack at it. Do you get any other driveabilty issues like hesitation or such like? Link to post Share on other sites
Devildub_06 0 Posted April 14, 2008 Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 By the way, have you fitted your new leads as yet, arcing is a bit of a no no!! Link to post Share on other sites
aks650 0 Posted April 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 cheers for the advice, got a new valve coming 2moro got it for £140 off Euro car parts, leads are coming next week! not being stupid but what does Arching mean? how does it affect the car? The only issues is has driving are when you come to junctions ect, stalling sometimes or rvs rising to 1200-1500rpm! Link to post Share on other sites
thegoth 5 Posted April 14, 2008 Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 but what does Arching mean? leads, or coilpack, producing sparks, arcing, to the engine Link to post Share on other sites
Devildub_06 0 Posted April 14, 2008 Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 And that means you lose your ignition efficiency to the spark plugs as the energy is being wasted on the engine or any other "easier" earths it comes into contact with causing loss of power, hesitation etc Link to post Share on other sites
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