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Kinetic motorsports turbo kit.


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Thanks mate,

Well im getting there now!

Im hopefuly going to start getting the bits together over xmas then fit it etc ready for the spring.

So I want around 300-350bhp, What kind of psi would I need to run to achieve this?

Also how is the boost adjusted?

So far as bits go this is what I have so far..

-RHD manifold.

-Custom pipework fmic etc that I will try and do myself with the help of some friends.

-Bigger injectors, what would you recomend for the power I want?

-ARP rod and head bolts.

-Spacer Gasket.

-Tial Wastegate.

-A recirculating bov.

-A turbo, Again what would you recomend? I dont want to spend an arm and a leg doing this, going to try and keep costs down. I had a look at the turbonetics turbos available in the us, any good?

Also would you recomend runing a 4" maf housing etc?

I know there is a lot of q's there! I appreciate the help..

Stuart.

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Aim for 1 bar. Its a good amount, nice roun figure, and depending on build will get you 350-400bhp.

Yep go with 4" maf.

440cc injectors will give you all the fuel you need

Turbo depends on budget. t3/t04e is a good one, get a midsize housing - 0.63 for daily driver, 0.82 for more top end power but a bit more lag. 57 trim wheel. a proper garrat will cost around 450, cheaper ones are available depends what you want to pay.

Turbonetics are good - they do that same spec turbo for i think $900 so similar cost to the garret.

If you have more money you could get the GT alternative - GT30R, will spool a bit quicker so go for the 0.82 housing and it'll give you top end. This'll be more like £900-1k, and you will need to water cool it too. VR is a big lump so it can spin up the older journal bearing style quite adequatly.

If your going the ARP route then get the main studs to. if you do rod bolts then next on the list to be ripped out is the crank... there about £80 and worth doing while your there.

Boost is adjusted via the wastegate. You can either change spring rates, or limit the boost it sees with a boost controoler of some sort - apexi-avcr is good but pricy. to start just whack in a 10 psi spring and see how you get on. make sure nothing pops, then look at going higher.

When the wastegate sees the set pressure it diverts exhaust away from the turbo and stops its spining faster.

Tom.

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Yep that turbo's ideal, just change the exhaust housing on the options. .48 is way to small, .63 good for daily but boost will tail off a little at the top - should still give you 350 though, .82 if you can live with a little more lag and are after more top end power.

I wouldnt buy a turbo in uk, too expensive. be aware you will get stung 20% for vat and duty on import, also kinetic dont ship internationaly - you need a freindly mate in the US to forward it.

yeah 1 bar = 15psi (ish)

You could use aquamist i spose, personally dont really like it, but yeah its a good way to get more power - your map would have to take it into account though.

Tom.

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Thanks mate,

I emailed kinetic about shipping the whole kit when I was going to get that, they said they would ship worldwide! They wanted $500 for shipping mind you.

I will go for the .63 as its going to be a daily driver and I think too much lag would drive me insane!

So aquamist isnt essential? Do you run it on yours?

Stuart.

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  • 2 weeks later...

$500?!! That's way too much, even for FedEx!

Aquamist not necessary if the intercooler is efficient.....but if you do want water injection, go Aquamist as Coolingmist isn't in the same league at all.

You have to be careful with jet size and trigger point or you can end up washing out the AF mix and drop power. Similarly, too much methanol to replace the ignitable mix, will work against you also.

This a good source of info on all things water - http://www.aquamist.co.uk/phpBB2/

Personally I think water is better suited to superchargers. Turbos aren't rpm governed and therefore you can swamp the bores with water when you don't want it there.....

Drop some Nitromethane in with the water/methanol mix though and it will kick like NOS.....but be careful as it's very flammable!

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I know, I didnt think about all the small parts when this project started!

What kind of fuelpump would be best for my turbo? I will eventually be running abou 15psi.

Or do you think I would be best leaving the standard one in during the testing phase? I will start on 8psi then turn it up.

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I use FedEx for shipping mate. They're not cheap, but they've proven to be extremely reliable for me and take good care of the packages, so I just stick to what I know. UPS are good too.

Fuel pump an absolute must, even with 8psi. I recommned the Sytec one from Stealth as it comes with a decent fitting kit to allow it to seat properly in the OE pump housing. Nice easy job and peace of mind. Costs £95 which isn't bad....cheaper than replacing holed pistons ;-)

I've had my Sytec running at 100psi with no problems so far, so it's man enough for 15psi easily. I think Sytec quote 500hp capability from it too.

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Thanks mate,

So if I used a sytec fuel pump with 440cc injectors would I need anything else for the fueling side? Like a fuel pressure regulator etc? Would the car run with them fitted to say drive to stealth for a map?

Also is it essential to use a crankcase breather catch can etc or will the satndard stuff be ok?

Sorry for all the q's!! You guys are real halpfull :-)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I havent been reading the hole post. But I asume you are going to buy the Kinetic stage 3 kit? Since people where talking about 12psi/ 1 bar etc...

Im about to order the very same kit to Oslo, and the shipping is 500 dollars.

Anyway, with that kit, you should be fine with everything you need. Exept for ARP headstuds and a extra fuel pump.

Kinetic have a Wallbro pump for 125dololars that should work fine.

Else you should have a LSD diff fitted. Peloquin/Quaife. And a upgraded clutch. BFI engine mounts that Kinetic sells are very smart to have as well. So your engine dont move all over the place when the power comes. Around 3200 rpm..

If you are to buy the Kinetic stage 1 or 2, you dont need anything more, than a 9PSI spring so you can go for about 280whp.

Clutch/LSD is recomended, but not cruisal.

Problem with the Kinetic kit, has been the C2 chip that follows. I know the chip has been better the last year, but still its VERY IMPORTANT to get your A/F mix cheked when u fire up the car and have the first drive. One guy on Wortex did 25miles on his Kinetic Stage 3, before he blew his engine. All because off to little fuel. Maybe he didnt have a extra fuelpump?

If you wanna have 230-240whp and think you are gonna be fine with that go for a Z-Engineering ZR2 kit. And ask Z for a custom chip. Thoose Superchargers rock.

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C2 code will not work in a euro car, for a vareity of very good reasons. ask them to leave it out of the kit.

The C2 code is written for US emmisons with EGR, SAI etcetcetc. It is good code, but runs crap in a UK/Euro car.

Kinetic manifold wont fit RHD car (not sure what side you drive in oslo...

The kit that was posted was stage 1.

Tom.

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