[02A Clutch Slave Cylinder {Questions}]

thank you for the reply, I'm going to buy a higher quality bleeder and try, The fluid in still topped off and I had not added or removed any other than maybe some air from a chinese clutch/brake bleeder. If that does not work, I will continue with the rest of your knowledge that you passed onto me, much appreciated!

[02A Clutch Slave Cylinder {Questions}]

Hello fellow vr6 owners, I have a few questions, and could use some input- it'd be much appreciated.

I can no longer shift my mk3 into gear with the engine on, but when the engine is off, I can get it into 1st, reverse, etc, just fine.

I checked all the linkages, and the shifter is in mint condition. I did notice that my clutch pedal feels softer, and lower to towards the firewall than normal.

I figured the signs are pointing towards the clutch slave cylinder being kaputt, so I let my mk3 sit for a couple of days for that part to come in.

I replaced the clutch slave cylinder yesterday, bled the clutch, but the pedal is unresponsive and completely limp.

  To add to it, the engine kills itself after starting if I dont hold the gas pedal on 10k rpm (idle).
I know I did something wrong, but I have no idea what, how, and could use some advice and input.
 

[Vr6 alternator]

1. Pop Hood, and unplug your battery (to avoid damage to you and your new alternator- some like to touch neg terminal to body to ground-out/drain any remaining power)
   2. Remove air cabin filter housing by the serpentine belt, remove anything in the way of you and both your hands reaching the alternator.
   2. Use an M8 bolt to release tension from the tensioner pulley on the serpentine belt.
   3. Jack the engine upwards from below, some use the oil pan to jack the engine upwards, I use a thin piece of wood as a softener, and find a solid chunk of engine to jack upwards.
   4. Once the engine looks jacked up enough to where the alternator clears your frame, that's plenty.
   5. If your spare alternator does not have a pulley, remove the old alternator pulley now by loosening it (reverse, left = tighten; right = loosen for this pulley)
   6. After step 5 (if needed) is done, remove wires carefully from the bum-end of the alternator, there should be a nut there that you need to keep, so be mindful to not lose this.
   7. Start unbolting your alternator from bottom bolt first, to top lost, I've found this to be personally easier, but you can unbolt this any order you like.
   8. The alternator and the long bolts with it, should now come upwards and out with ease- if not, repeat step 3 a little more, but be careful.
   9. Slap in that new alternator and assemble the harness wiring back onto the bum-end of it carefully (a mk3 by now has aged wiring, and can crack-the heat from a vr6 eats wires)
   10. Rebolt your alternator from top to bottom, torque it down safely, and you're almost done! (If you're re-using your old pulley for the new alternator, NOW would be the time to do so.
   11. Be sure your serpentine belt is in the proper fashion, and remove the M8 bolt from your tensioner pulley hole
   12. Get your key ready in the driver's door, re-connect your battery, and quickly turn the key into unlocked position from the driver's door before the annoying mk3 alarm goes off.
   13. Slowly and gently unjack the engine, re-install your cabin air filter and anything else you threw around, and that's it- your alternator is now installed onto your mk3 VR6.
   
   I hope this helped, good luck!

[New to the vr6]

Best of luck to you, you'll spend a large amount of time getting the motor mounted correctly. Might have to shave the bonnet/hood to fit the vr6 into a mk1.

[VR6 OBD1 to OBD2]

I'm not quite understanding your question in full, but being an owner of a VRT with an OBD2 ecu, I believe it would be possible to run the ecu as it is now, to an extent. It depends on what the ECU is programmed for exactly (not familiar with your exact ecu), as long as the wiring loom, maf, and tb are being read correctly by the ecu, then you should be ok to run it with how it sits? The CEL could be blinking/flashing constantly if it doesn't like something. I hope this helps somehow, from what I can recall, the MAF was always the pain for me, since ecu UPGRADES are still running on the stock harness. Standalone ecu will get you the best performance out of your VRT with least amount of limitations. I hope this helped somehow, not the best answer, but hopefully someone with more knowledge can see this post and help you out better than I can. Take it easy on your vrt if you get it running.