Jump to content

tkoral

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    23

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by tkoral

  1. tkoral
    I apologize for not keeping you updated Philly-R6. I've been tremendously busy with non VR6 things. I am at a stand still till the postal service drops off my new ignition coil tomorrow. I was not getting an actual spark from any plug. The ignition coil was only giving the plugs around 7v to produce spark with. I've been told that the voltage coming from the ignition coil should be in thousands. I tested the resistance of my ignition coil and the primary resistance checked out good. The secondary resistance tested at 7.75 ohms in the 20k ohm range. The Bentley calls for the secondary resis
  2. tkoral
    I connected my multimeter to the ignition coil lead wire to the dizzy. I get 12v when the key is in the on position. When I cycle the key for a engine start the voltage with that lead drops to around 7v. I am unable to gather any faults. I do not have vag com unfortunately. I will try to see if I'm getting a signal from the hall sensor tonight. I know I am getting 12v power and 5v signal from the plug that attaches to the hall sensor.
  3. tkoral
    I finished up a full rebuild to my 2.9 VR6 and now it will not get spark to the plugs. Coil wire has 11.8v to distributor. Crank sensor shows 900 ohms Female plug that connects to the distributor shows 12v on one pin and 5v on the other. Unable to get any ohms reading across the hall sensor male connector pins. Did my hall sensor go out or could it be a fried ecu?
  4. tkoral
    Thank you for the link Philly R6! And also thank you for your input.
  5. tkoral
    Is there any ecus that will work with my 93 VR6 distributer corrado. I can't find anything out on this topic. Any help will be greatly appreciated[emoji1360]
  6. tkoral
    I had my machine shop bore my block and they installed my larger pistons for me onto the stock rods. The nipple on both the rod and cap are matched up but not sure if they are Facing the correct way. The raised portion on the piston crown is towards the center of the block. I am just not sure if the rods are facing the right way. If anyone can show me any light on this it would be much appreciated [emoji1360]
  7. tkoral
    Can't seem to find anything but generic charts. I want to know what the best ring gap specs are for a na VR6 12v 2.9l with mk4 he and 268s. If anyone has any knowledge it will be greatly appreciated [emoji1360]
  8. tkoral
    You will definitely have to swap out the engine loom along with ecu. Keep in mind that VRs use a hydraulic master for the clutches rather than cable. The Ce2 wiring is pretty simple. Number all of your electrical connections when stripping the car and a have a Bentley near by. Good luck [emoji1360]
  9. tkoral
    My machine shop has finished boring my aaa block to 82mm They have cut my crank and line bored my main journals. They told me to use standard size bearings for rods and mains. Have calico coated glyco bearings along with new thrust washers. New intermediate shaft bearings have been installed. Is there Anything else that I need to do after I install bearings and torque them to spec? Also what else is there to do when I slide the pistons in with new rings? I know I will have to file them to the correct gap but is there another measurement that I need to take once they are installed? I'm aski
  10. tkoral
    I called them and they said they wouldn't do anything till I get the pistons to them. I need to get more sleep and stop over analyzing everything I think [emoji848] Thanks for the reply [emoji1360]
  11. tkoral
    Hello everyone. I have been in the process of rebuilding a aaa VR6. The machine shop suggested that it would be best if the block be bored due to some irregularities with some cylinder walls. The motor was smoking before I pulled it... I gave them the go ahead to bore it to a 82mm. My friend has eurospec 2.9l corrado block that he spun a bearing on due to a cracked sump. He is giving me the 2.9l pistons out of it for a cheap price. My concern is will the pistons fit or should I have given them a different figure for the cylinder bore to work with the 2.9l eurospec pistons? I've read everywhe
  12. tkoral
    That was quite a bit of info RBPE [emoji1360] really appreciate all of that info!
  13. tkoral
    Thanks for the input VR6Pete [emoji1360] that makes sense RBPE I always thought oem was had better material than most other manufacturers. I am currently looking into Calico bearings... Anyone ever have any experience with those? From what I've read they seem reassuring.
  14. tkoral
    Application is a aaa 93 slc with 140k miles. NA I just had my whole head freshly rebuilt with new drc268s and super tech valves. I wanted to rering the block as well along with new bearings and arp hardware. I am on the fence with boost due to financials but when the time comes I would want my motor to be ready for it. Thanks
  15. tkoral
    I can't seem to decide which of the two I should go with. Schimmel main bearings have oil grooves on both halves where oem only has it on one bearing half. I'm just worried of what the schimmel bearings are made out of compared to the oem material. Any advice or info will be greatly appreciated.
  16. tkoral
    I am currently getting a head rebuilt with fresh everything and some 268 shricks. The 93 slc was smoking under hard acceleration and decel. Head looks like cylinders 1 3 and 5 were burning lots of oil. The cylinders all look decent with factory hone marks still visible. My question is should I rebuild the block with new rings and bearings or just get it honed and new rings and leave bearings alone? I've heard that a rebuilt bottom end in a vr6 won't last as long as a factory original built one. Cheers[emoji481]
  17. tkoral
    Previous owner of my 93 slc told me he wasn't sure if the car had cams or not. I just popped the valve cover off and the cams are marked with just a 7104 and a 7105 with a triangle symbol? No other numbers or letters. Anyone on here have knowledge to what I have? Cheers
  18. tkoral
    That sounds crisp [emoji1360]
  19. tkoral
    I've been searching but can't find a straight foreword answer. Aftermarket valve guides need to have the lip machined off if going to be used with anything other than stock cams for a 12v head if the guides aren't machined shorter the valve seals will get smashed . From my understanding only aftermarket guides need to be machined if used with higher duration cams such as 262s 268s... My question is can I use a head with stock guides still intact with a higher lift cam?
  20. tkoral
    I think it may be consuming a little oil also. Ordered a used head to build up to be installed over the winter. If it's just guides or valve stems I'll be happy. Thanks Pete [emoji1360]
  21. tkoral
    Was able to do a cold compression test this evening. #1 121 psi #2 145 #3 140 #4 145 #5 132 #6 144 They are all within tolerances as I read in the Bentley. When I pulled the plugs out I noticed that number 3 was the only one with the porcelain showing a running rich condition all other plugs looked normal and clean. Any advice or info will be appreciated [emoji481]
  22. tkoral
    Thanks for the reply Pete [emoji1360] I may put the pcv breather hose back in but the way I deleted it would make it impossible for any kind of oil to make it in to the intake manifold. Only smokes when the motor warms up. I don't hear any piston slap whatsoever. It's just odd that it smokes at idle if it is the valve stem seals. The oil that is in it is 15w40 non synthetic Thanks for the advice on everything Pete [emoji1360] I will be seeing what number she gives me in each cylinder after work
  23. tkoral
    I've had a few vrs but none that smoked like this one. The car is a 93 obd1 slc with 142k. I bought the car in the winter and took my time doing preventative maintenance stuff to it such as new heatercore, coolant pipe and housings, fuel pump, fuelfilter, plugs, cap and rotor. The car ran good when I got it and never smoked. A few months ago I installed coils on it and when I rolled it out of the garage it sounded like a lifter got stuck for about half a minute but went away. Changed the oil right after it did that but never took her for a drive. Keep in mind I only recently put the car on t
×
×
  • Create New...