[maf woes]

Hi i had been getting constant maf error codes for some time so decided to give it a clean.anyway i got a bit excited and broke the wafer element.Picked up a brand new one same part/same part number etc fitted perfectly,all codes away but now im getting a slight hesitation on acceleration mostly from low revs below 3000ish its almost like a small misfire then a second later away it goes,def isnt as punchy when i get on the throttle.it wasnt like this when i had the maf error code drove as normal just with rubbish fuel consumption.im noticing my fuel consumption is better with this new maf but the dead spot is driving me nuts! anyone have any ideas whats going on here.ive gave the whole intake trunking a check for leaks,and i did have a 00525 code after fitting it but this hasnt came up again.

thanks Rob

[Fuel tank straps.]

thanks i will check them out. gonna inspect the original mounting points see if they are up to the job as they look very rusty and flaked away

[Fuel tank straps.]

Hi.wondering if anyone can help me with some info with my mk3 fuel tank problems. Friday the middle of the 3 fuel tank straps snapped.the other 2 look rotten and worse for wear too, so far ive managed to rig up sum sort of temp fixing using multiple bungee straps and 2 lengths of thick guage earth cable round the rear beam and round the rear bumper steel.question being is these 3 straps the only thing that stops the tank falling out the car and would holding it up with wire/straps etc round the rear beam and bumper iron secure it enough for me to get it (10mile) home for proper fixing. also does anyone have a recomendation for permanent fix as i believe some of these straps are now obsolete and in any case the bolts and fixing points are looking rotten and past it.was thinking using 2mm stainless strap simply drilled and drilled right thru to the boot spare wheel area with a long stainless bolt at each end and fastened up. Anyone been in a similar situation? Thanks

[Coil pack and no start Troubleshooting]

Forgot to add when i bypassed the ign switch and 'hotwired' it as such. There were some sparks so those wires were getting power. Just no turning over.

[Coil pack and no start Troubleshooting]

Hi all.

 

Needing some thoughts on my issues with a non start. At the very least im needing a new coil pack, the body is cracked and a post has fallen off. Rewind to friday night ran well no issues parked up and not run for couple days.

Monday tried to start struggled but starter did turn over,tried again and it struggled more, third time nothing.Got booster cables out and connected up to helper car,Nothing.

At first i thought the jump leads didnt get a good connection but small sparks and the helper car dropping revs when i turned on my fans confirmed there was a solid current path.

I tried directly connecting the red starter cables in the column to rule out the starter switch,(which i had to do before when it went duff.)

Gave up and disconnected helper car.

On my return to the engine bay there was a burning smell and smoke.i notice coil is red hot and cracked at no1 cyl post spewing this brown resin.The heat only stopped when i disconnected the battery.

The only thing i can think is it was raining and quite wet when this was done.

 

Im going to investigate further but so far im needing a coil for sure.The starter hasnt turned since it was connected to the boost car i confirmed i hadnt got the cables the wrong way round or anything. Wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this and if its just a burnt out coil or 2 issues at once? i find it strange that the starter wouldnt even budge could a shorted coil cause this. I have a meter but im not sure where to start checking in the circuit and cant find a decent wiring diagram.Anyone had anything similar your help would be great

 

Thanks

 

[Power steering pump union]

Hi im looking for some info on power steering pumps.

 

I hit some debris and the damage its done is knocking the small right angled pipe connector for the rubber retun hose on the bottom of the pump. The 90deg pipe is now really wobbly in the pump and leaking fluid past.

 

Question is. Is this part just on a thread and a screw in pipe fitting, if so it would seem the thread has just broken and is now loose.

Can you get these parts seperate or use some other form of metal pipe fitting? as the rest of the pump itself looks good as are the pipes and rubber hoses.

 

Thanks

[Opinions On Poly Topmounts?]

Hi il be doing my rear axle bushes soon and replacing them with poly types, think id be safe in saying a majority of vr owners are doing this when the stocks fail,what with the easier fitting and what not.

 

I was also having a look at the poly front top mounts and rear top mounts.

What are everyones opinions on these?

 

Im wanting to maintain a pretty comfortable stock ride

however at the same time tightening everything up and having a nice responsive handling car, If you know what i mean.

 

Would be great to hear your views on them and from folk who have used them vs the stock ones.

Also what type would be recommended, i see they have a track focused 'black' version as well now.

 

Thanks

[Rusty Bits And Mot]

Hi ive got the mot coming up very soon. My rust inspection went well and theres no major worries.

Except for a patch down where the rear arch meets the quarter panel and rearmost part of sill,its been bubbly for a while and

recently a piece broke off revealing a small cavity.it seems as if this part is double skinned or has become delaminated or something as its not penetrating thru to the inside,theres just a little pocket inside the bubble.

So far i have used some kurust inside to turn it black and stem the rust spread.Is this area something that will fail an mot,or

is it an idea to get it welded or even fill it before hand?

sorry i dont have a pic

 

Thanks

[head and cooling system help]

Hi im needing some help with my situation here.

First i have a stuck open thermo, a leaking matrix and a leaking water pump im also 99.9% sure i have water leaking thru the HG.

For the past while i have reached a kind of stable state where i will loose hardly any water if i keep moving and when things are getting a bit hot put the heaters on full and or stage 3 fan that ive wired up to the dash. If the needle just sits below middle its fine but if i let the car idle more than a few mins and heat up more i get steam from the matrix and leak from the pump and random whisps from the exhaust, if i sit idleing for 20mins i can easily loose most of the expansion tank.

So should i hold off on doing my thermo housing crack pipe etc and water pump and bypassing the matrix until im ready to do the HG? why i ask is that im thinking with no leaks at the pump or matrix and with the thermo working properly and getting the temp and pressure up quicker

will the pressure going thru the HG leak be even more and possible rupture a larger part and start spewing?

Since buying all my cooling parts and some parts for the rear shocls and brakes im going to have to wait until i can afford to get a HG and bolts and all the accosiated parts.

Would be great if anyone could give me there opinions?

[alternative aux water pump]

if you still need one i can sell you mine from my corrado' date=' just done a conversion so all the old bits are up for grabs,

[/quote']

Thanks m8 im trying to get a new part but if i cant find a decent compatible one at a decent price i would take yours.

Incase anyone is in a similar situation i done some checking and it seems pumps from the 2.5tdi passat,the golf v5, some 1.8t ones (not sure which) the sharan 1.9tdi the alhambra 1.9tdi and mercedes vito petrol and diesel engine ones will fit and are the same part and bosch pump as the vr6 only diffrence is some of the plugs are diffrent which is an easy fix.and all of the above seem to be listed cheaper than the vr6 specific ones especialy the merc pumps, one ford forum had a guy using one from a merc c class £45 brand new, this was the exact same lower section of pump with the same impeler and pipes etc but the top part and motor was diffrent and all it needed was a merc plug from the scrappers and connect the wires apparently this goes for all clk and e class up to 2004 aswell.im off to see whats the cheapest i can get a new one for.

[what are these?]

excellent thats not too bad price. will check my local TPS for the pump then and just get the plastic pipe parts off ebay

[what are these?]

those prices are similar to the exchange of a genuine VW one' date=' why don't you check local dealers and TPSs

[/quote']

Cool tbh i thought a genuine vw item would have been quite a bit more than those but if its only couple quid id rather have genuine for a part like a main pump.

[what are these?]

they are "tell tail holes" if water comes out of one of them then the pump internal seals are buggered .....

Yeah that kind of makes sense. this will prob be where the water stream down by my pulley is originating then.

As long as its dry when in use and nothing connects to them.

Also does anyone know what the diffrence on GSF between the 'standard' and 'premium' water pumps are? theres a tenner between them

[what are these?]

Im planning a major cooling system overhaul soon i havent ordered a main pump yet but was wondering what the 2 ports highlighted are? im assuming these will be sitting outside the block just behind the pulley,i have visions of water gushing out on start up lol. Ive read lots of diys for the pump replacement and none mention any additional pipe connections to be made to the pump. Do these need a blanking plug in them or something?

thanks for having a look

[rear suspension issues]

Hi im having some problems with my osr strut.

Been getting a rapid knocking noise over the bumpy bits.initialy this just started to happen after

i swapped from my factory 15in wheels and put my bbs 16s on as the tyres were better.

Ive since undone the top part of the strut jacked up and dropped the strut down thru the hole slightly to have a look at the inside rubber, so far everything looks in good condition no movement or noises either when bouncing on or moving diffrent parts of the rear susp its all solid and tight, the shocks are dry as a bone and feel good.

Starting to do my head in now as it passed an mot on sat so obviously no major worries (and this guy is normaly very strict with mots)

Got my mate in the boot during a drive and its def coming from inside the shock turret.

Cant seem to pinpoint thecause and dont want to throw random parts at it.

Can anyone offer advice on what i should be looking for next and how to check?

cheers

[alternative aux water pump]

yeah bigdaddy i did check the ford ones with the 2.8 and also the seat alhambra and sharan ones.Ford were mostly the same think the cheapest new i found was around £95.

Seen some pics of pumps listed as for the 1.9tdi (never knew they had 1) it looks pretty much identical right down to the rubber cradle it sits in.

[alternative aux water pump]

Hi does anyone know if theres any reason an aux water pump from say a v5 wouldnt work or even something from like an a4 2.5 tdi or something like that?

Seems its really hard to find a vr6 one and the few used ones ive seen are kind of questionable id prefer new but i dont fancy paying almost £100.

The ones from other cars and v6 engines ive seen are a lot cheaper and seem very similar just a case of getting the hoses to fit and wiring up the plug to suit, i mean all it really is is a 12v elec motor and a plastic impeller right.

Anyone tried any units from other engines or known compatible ones?

Also which dirrection does the flow go within the 2 pipes connecting the aux pump .

Thank you

[Rear washer jet renewal]

thanks man. il get one of them ordered up

[Rear washer jet renewal]

Hi. Ive noticed on the rear wiper the washer jet nozzle or whatever was on there before must have somehow snapped off. Its now just a striaght pipe part coming up thru the shaft and spraying fluid nowhere. How would i go about fixing this? Is the nozzle part available as an insert part or is it part of the main motor assembly?

thanks

[VW Paint codes - Find your paint code here!!! :!]

someones prob posted this before but just thought id add, Hammerite multi purpose anti rust paint in the hammered black colour is an almost exact match for the black magic paint on highlines.done some rusty bits underneath the doors and i have trouble telling the diffrence. go for the rattle cans tho as the brush on seems a slight diffrent shade

[bolt specs]

just a quick question on the 6 balljoint bolts mate are the m8x26 ones 1.5mm pitch as ive found a good HT bolt supplier but they only do the m8s in 1.00mm pitch

[bolt specs]

thanks that should get me started

[bolt specs]

Hi could someone give me some data on the specs/sizes of these bolts please or even just a vw part number. your help would be great thanks

rear caliper bolts (the allen head, carrier ones)

Rear axle bush bolts

all the bolts holding the front arms and also the 3 ones that hold the ball joint

and finally the 2 front calliper carrier bolts

Also would i be as well to just make all these bolts 12.9 strength replacements?

cheers

[carpet lifting.]

cool thats really easy for seat removal just 1 small clip and the seat comes off.Are you on about the part you would take off to get access to the handbrake to adjust it? and do you need to remove anything on the runners themselfs

[carpet lifting.]

Hi.Right so i have a soft section of floor in the rear passenger foot area and also a wet patch on other side so its going to be patched and welded.

Im just wondering whats the easiest way to get the mk3 carpet up for welding access,ive checked where the good metal is for welding and the whole bad area could be welded without actualy taking the seats out as the rust is confined to a small area behind the front seat and i wanted to know if i can get the carpet back in this area while the seats are just slid all the way forward? If need be though whats the process for taking the seats out and pulling the whole carpet,hard job?

cheers