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Posts posted by BenVictors
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Well after a very silly break away from the 6 pot
(got rid of the mk3 VR and bought an S3!!!)
I am now stripping out the 1.8 20v and replacing it with a 2.8 24v
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Not likely to have immob on a Rado VR. Are you getting fuel to the Injectors?
Have you had it on Vag-com? May just need some codes clearing
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Think the front engine mount is solid rubber mate, the gearbox mounting is oil filled tho but when they fail and leak its normally quite thick sludgy oil
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Had the van about 2 weeks now and its been drinking fuel for fun, about 9mpg!!!! What do you 24v drivers get mpg wise??
Put it on Vag-com and got this lot up
4 Faults Found:
16825 - EVAP Emission Control Sys: Incorrect Flow
P0441 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17704 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1296 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
16497 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0113 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
P0102 - 35-00 - -
Had a clean down of the engine, a few of the breathers were clogged with oil and the mass airflow sensor had a load of sh!t in it, put it all back together, cleared the codes and went for a drive, put it back on vag-com and got this
1 Fault Found:
17559 - Long Term Fuel Trim Additive Air Bank 1: Range 1: System too Lean
P1151 - 35-00 - -
Any ideas people??
Any help much appreciated.
Also, the auto gearbox seems to skip between 2rd and 3rd alot, gives a bit of a kangaroo effect and it sticks in gear a little longer than I think it should.
Any help on this also much appreciated.
Cheers.
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Pretty sure that is one of the oil gallery plugs, theres another, slightly larger one, just under the coolant pulley. The larger one is the one ive just had to replace.
They are pence from the stealers but an absolute bar steward to replace. They are basically a steel cap that push fits into the block, im guessing its only leaking under pressure, i.e when the engine is on??
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If you remove the green cap on the end of the box you will see the actuating finger, this is sat on a splined shaft which in turn is moved by the clutch arm/cable
The splines are notorious for wearing and making the actuating finger unable to push the push rod into the pressure plate. Quite an easy fix tbh mate.
Have a look on here http://www.brokevw.com/ for a guide as to how to fix
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Providing you dont have an engine under tray, get yourself a ratchet strap, hook the strap through the catch bracket on the bonnet itself and hook the other end round yr front cross member, if yr really low, pull ya front splitter off an you can get yr hand underneath to work the ratchet to pull the bonnet closed. I will send you a pm with my number if you want this bonnet bud
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Take the bonnet off completely and bang it back into some kind of normal shape, put yr new catch on and providing the centre of the bonnet is something like, then it should close. You will defo need a new bonnet tho mate. If yr anywhere near Leeds I have a black one you can have for a tenner, also a new sunroof for £20 :-)
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Ok folks, sorry for the delay, been a busy boy over the weekend.
Thursday morn I ordered my new Oil Gallery Plug from VW, 60 something pence plus VAT ;-) said it would be here Monday, cool!!
HOWEVER, on my way home on Thursday night my existing plug popped a hole and pissed my engine oil all over my shiny bay and all over the floor, got it recovered home and had a good clean. VW failed on the delivery of my new plug so Im still car less :-(
Heres a pic of the plug with the hole in it
Gonna be a swine to get out
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And pop goes the weasel
:-( :-( :-(
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Ok, quick update, after a lot of dismantling, prodding, poking and cleaning I have found my oil leak. its the oil galley plug just to the left of the crank pulley, under the coolant pump pulley
Anyone else had a problem with these, thinking of just bobbing some JB weld in there to stop the leak, I now have a constant heavy drip from the offending item :-(
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Once the 8v lump was out, me and my mate set about cleaning the bay, De-A/C'd the VR lump and cleaned down, cleaned out the expansion tank and washer bottle, cleaned, cleaned, cleaned etc etc ;-)
By Friday tea time I had this in my bay
Was just waiting on the exhaust mid section now, the exhaust off the VR was rotten so I bought myslef a Sebring backbox that has reeeeediculously large tailpipes, and was going to run a standard mid section. However, the mid section never turned up and as I was itching to get on the road with this thing I went down to Tony Banks in Leeds on Saturday afternoon and they knocked me up a straight through stainless section.
Threw my Splits in the car and went to get some rubber...
Im sure I have missed shed loads of stuff out that I've done to the car since owning it, but you get the general jist ;-)
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Anyways, back to my build.
I managed to pick myself up a completely standard VR Highline, 120.000 miles with full VW history, I was buying it for the sole reason of putting everything in mine, so the fact it had no T & T and the entire underside of it was rotten, didnt bother me
Started the tear down on Thursday morning
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HOWEVER, the clocks from my VR are the newer designed ones, they have SMD LED's running the MFA and Mileage and are an enclosed unit
These are a pain in the arse to do, but I will be doing them in the next couple of weeks so I will take some pics and do a little 'how to'
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Afternoon, the needle mod was pretty easy, dependant on what clocks you have, From personal experience I know of 4 different types of clock for the mk3 Golf so who knows how many are actually out there.
If you have this internal design
Then they are the easy ones.
Get yourself some pre-wired 12v LED's and some needles from mk5 Golf clocks (or mk4 but I prefer the design of the mk5 needles)
Position them like so under each face, as close to the centre as possible, facing upwards and stick with some kind of glue
Then link and wire all the LED's into the clocks
And voila
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More to come tomorrow.
Good night ;-)
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Got myself some BBS splits and did this to em
And finally set about getting rid of this pathetic excuse of an engine ;-)
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Re-furbed the Le-mans wheels and boshed them on
Replaced the front wings and bonnet
Just before I replaced the bonnett :-)
Got myself some OEM number plates made up but with the 'VW' in red
Re-modded my headlight switch and my clocks
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Gearbox then went pop so I bought this for £350 for the box and as an added bonus got a full Mulberry leather interior, 10-disc multi-changer and lots of other odds and sodds I cant remember now
Did lots of interior modding with switches etc
Did this first
Then changer to this
Did this
Some exterior modding
And front fogs installed
Got myself some Hella Quads and some coily's
And did a little more to the interior
'W8' mod on the interior light switch, gives a nice little glow around the gearstick area
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To cut a VERY long story a bit shorter, I serviced it, cleaned it, re-furbed the wheels from this
To this
Got bored of that colour after a couple of weeks so did this
And made myself some wheel spacers
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Had the Golf just short of 2 years now and although its nowhere near finished (they never are!!) its starting to come together nicely me thinks :smiley:
It had 193,000 on the clock :-# and was a little rough around the edges but for £500 with full service history I thought 'Why not'
When I first got her -
[img width=1024 height=768]http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk250/djbenvictors/VicksPicture24012010028.jpg
[img width=1024 height=768]http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk250/djbenvictors/VicksPicture24012010013.jpg
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Thing is, it didn't leak in the original car but after the transplant started leaking, Ive changed the Aux belt because I removed the A/C but that all Ive done in that kind of area.
Like I say, Im gonna strip the front end down and see what I can see.
Cheers Steve.
Ben.
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It might be crank seal
Good, Bad or Ugly in regards to replacement??
Wiould the crank seal only leak under pressure tho??
Cheers Steve.
Ben.
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Ive done a search and cant seem to find the problem Im having.
At the weekend I converted my lowly little Mk3 GTI 8v into a proper car......... a VR6
LOVE IT
However, when running, the car drips oil constantly, the drip is from the bottom of the P/S pump. I've cleaned everywhere under the car and left it stood and there is no leak but within a few seconds of starting the car it starts to drip again.
There are no visible leaks from the Oil filter housing, any of the pressure/temp sensors or the oil cooler.
As you look at the front of the engine, I think its coming from somewhere behind where the A/C pump would sit and running down the back of the P/S pump
I am going to strip the front end of the car off this weekend and investigate further but thought I would post to see if anyone has had a similar thing or if you could shine some light on it.
Cheers.
Ben.
I'm back!
in Newbies Corner
Posted
Cheers guys, I will revive my build thread in due course.
Just need to source a few more bits and get my d/pipe and decat made then I'm good to go
Sourcing Turbo bits for the end of the year too