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VeeRsix

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Posts posted by VeeRsix

  1. Hi Ollie

    Clarify where the problem is first before attempting any adjustments by disconnecting the shift cabling and jacking up the vehicle front now have some one start the vehicle and with them operating the clutch put the gearbox up and down thru its gears noting any issues on the way ie 1st 0k 2nd ok 3rd poor 4th ok etc etc when your satisfied the gearbox is ok proceed with adjustments.

    Stephen

    Ps you,ve checked and topped up the gb oil presumably ?

  2. unsure about the piston but wouldnt have thought they were any different.

    also rotate the crank and make sure theres no tight spots (possible bent rod)

    but you defo need to look at the chains and guides and find where the noise was from.

    also once youve got new valves check there run in the guides and if tight or sloppy knock em out and fit new £4 each and while your there you may as well fit new valve seals £20.

    stephen

  3. id replace it with a rad cooler m8 ,any 9 row plus rad will do you and the sandwich plates about £20 of fleabay, so for a second hand rad and new plate you,d have a better OC system for circa £50 ?.

    Stephen

    Ps heres a couple i made earlier lol

    Adapter http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310318092725?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

    Rad http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-S-TYPE-OIL-COOLER-RADIATOR-/180937425049?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a20b60099

  4. Both the upper and lower tensioners are oil fed and afraid the lowers a gearbox out jobby to check, but presumab,y your talking about the upper only pull the tensioner bolt out completely and measure its length ,my lumps in bits at the mo so ill measure mine when home from work this evening to compare with yours.

    Seeing your pulling the head anyway this will give you chance to view the upper guide and chain blade, if these are broken or worn to excess you may have jumped a tooth or two in witch case you may have head and piston damage, but lets take one step at a time Jack.

    Stephen

    Ps got spare used std pistons if you need any F.O.C

  5. Worked in the aircarft industry for a while and we used water and talc for minimal impact damage when cleaning parts prior to crack testing, the main problem we had with a small cabinet was limited vision when blasting.

    So post your intensions here m8 and ill see if theres any holes in your idea .

    Stephen

  6. Hi

    Can anyone recommend a decent parts supplier as im doing a ground up rebuild on my high milage 93 vr and need the usual worn bits n bobs .

    specific parts i need are

    std piston ring sets (only 2 needed) long story ?.

    main bearings.

    gaskets: inlet + exhaust +rocker cover

    upper camchain guide + phenolic tensioner

    engine mounts

    wishbone bushes

    drop links and anti roll bushes.

    if any member as any of the above going spare then post here and ill arrange payment inc postage etc etc.

    TIA

    stephen ;)

  7. Grrr Mines like a bloody culinder at the moment ,i dried it completely and bypassed the heater matrix Hopeing/Praying this was where the leak was but checked her on friday only to find a puddle in the drivers well, so unless i cure the ingress iam afraid its curtains for her and ill be sorcing a new shell me thinks.

    Stephen

    ps check the usual stuff screen/drain holes etec etc so any other info would be wellcome.

  8. What you have is 2 cylinders running slighly rich, now seeing that your fuel input/usage is monitored electronicly via sensors/maf/ecu/injectors etc etc ,this means you cant adjust anything to compensate for the 2 that are offslighty other than to ensure the following

    a) injectors are clean and shaping correctly

    B) air-fuel filters and breathers are clean and operative

    c) all associated pipeork is airtight

    After the aboves been checked run the car for 20mile then re-check.

    You could also do a compression test wet n dry and post ya findings here please.

    Stephen

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